first gen crv 5spd f20b swap nightmare! help please, running but not good.
CAR DETAILS:
98 crv 5 speed
98 f20b full lsd swap
Stock internals and stock car
Stock ecu with 3 wire IACV
1 CEL: EGR (but I did the egr delete so I'm not worried and it doesn't come up all time)
REPLACED ON MOTOR:
Timing belt
Ks auto tensioner
Plugs (not wires)
Cap & rotor
Coil (not ignition module)
Tps sensor (not even on motor when I got it)
Map sensor o-ring (map sensor was loose and o-ring wasn't there)
Map sensor swapped (from running normal civic)
PCV breather on valve cover
Various other gaskets
REPLACED ON CAR:
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
New front O2 sensor (Same rear sensor)
TIMING:
I believe timing is right. I didnt lock the balancer shaft and just put the belt on, but timing should be right because I used timing light to check the flywheel and the white (tdc) mark is between the grooves
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION:
I'm at a loss guys,car drives like there is not enough fuel, motor sounds like a subaru when driving. When I first turn on the car it sounds fine, motor is cold and rpms are high (which is good) then I drive up to the first stop sign (car sounding like subaru) and stop completely and rpms drop down to 800-900 motor still cold.... I know that's not right. Plus there is hesitation when I'm accelerating when its cold I feel surging... fuel relay maybe? Injectors? Hard to find replacement injectors for f20b. When its warm, it doesn't surge, but there is still no power/not enough gas. I need help and i'm stuck!
SENSORS/THROTTLE BODY/INTAKE MANIFOLD:
Inplugged o2 sensor incase bad reading (suppose to rich out right?) Drives the same.
Cleaned intake manifold, it was already pretty clean. But I still sprayed it out and wiped it down. cleaned little oil residue on throttle body, not much though. IAT sensor was unplugged and my car did run shittier so I plugged it back in (so its working.. i believe).
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
So, I'm stuck.... few things left to try... let me know what you guys think:
1) Re-time car and leave balancer shaft belt out (I'm cool with the wear and tear and extra vibrations)
2) fuel relay has not been touched, maybe swap out with a civic? My buddy had one, should I even try? Right now car starts up every time without long cranking.
98 crv 5 speed
98 f20b full lsd swap
Stock internals and stock car
Stock ecu with 3 wire IACV
1 CEL: EGR (but I did the egr delete so I'm not worried and it doesn't come up all time)
REPLACED ON MOTOR:
Timing belt
Ks auto tensioner
Plugs (not wires)
Cap & rotor
Coil (not ignition module)
Tps sensor (not even on motor when I got it)
Map sensor o-ring (map sensor was loose and o-ring wasn't there)
Map sensor swapped (from running normal civic)
PCV breather on valve cover
Various other gaskets
REPLACED ON CAR:
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
New front O2 sensor (Same rear sensor)
TIMING:
I believe timing is right. I didnt lock the balancer shaft and just put the belt on, but timing should be right because I used timing light to check the flywheel and the white (tdc) mark is between the grooves
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION:
I'm at a loss guys,car drives like there is not enough fuel, motor sounds like a subaru when driving. When I first turn on the car it sounds fine, motor is cold and rpms are high (which is good) then I drive up to the first stop sign (car sounding like subaru) and stop completely and rpms drop down to 800-900 motor still cold.... I know that's not right. Plus there is hesitation when I'm accelerating when its cold I feel surging... fuel relay maybe? Injectors? Hard to find replacement injectors for f20b. When its warm, it doesn't surge, but there is still no power/not enough gas. I need help and i'm stuck!
SENSORS/THROTTLE BODY/INTAKE MANIFOLD:
Inplugged o2 sensor incase bad reading (suppose to rich out right?) Drives the same.
Cleaned intake manifold, it was already pretty clean. But I still sprayed it out and wiped it down. cleaned little oil residue on throttle body, not much though. IAT sensor was unplugged and my car did run shittier so I plugged it back in (so its working.. i believe).
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
So, I'm stuck.... few things left to try... let me know what you guys think:
1) Re-time car and leave balancer shaft belt out (I'm cool with the wear and tear and extra vibrations)
2) fuel relay has not been touched, maybe swap out with a civic? My buddy had one, should I even try? Right now car starts up every time without long cranking.
Last edited by LinkJ; Jan 8, 2013 at 08:51 AM.
i calibrated the TPS, it sits at closed .48V then when i have someone step on the gas all the way down it goes up to 5v.
I even slowly opened it to make sure its reading the voltage in between and doesn't just jump
I even slowly opened it to make sure its reading the voltage in between and doesn't just jump
yeah, i'm thinking i may have to start back at ground zero, and check timing again, i think i am going to delete the balancer belt, too.
as far as management??? i'm using a stock PCM (f20b) ECU, not sure what you're asking.
I will have 4 hours tonight, so i will redo my timing and let everyone know.
as far as management??? i'm using a stock PCM (f20b) ECU, not sure what you're asking.
I will have 4 hours tonight, so i will redo my timing and let everyone know.
sounds like dead cylinder
you can use any H obd2 injectors dont specifically need f20b ones
all obd2 injectors flow the same amount
heck you can even try the b20 injectors just to see if it makes a difference
you can use any H obd2 injectors dont specifically need f20b ones
all obd2 injectors flow the same amount
heck you can even try the b20 injectors just to see if it makes a difference
Trending Topics
Crv is cable shifter but you need f/h series cable shift linkage, its not the same as the crv one. And had to make a custom bolder for the shifter cuz the holes don't line up.
Obd2 h series injectors are 290cc, b series obd2 are 250cc? And f20b is 320cc.... does 30cc matter?
And I took the balancer belt off guys, rides rough now, but power is restored... ill have to either redo timing and the balance shaft correctly or just leave it off... but that was the problem.
oh ok cool..
idk how people notice the vibration from the balancer shaft belt being off.. ive had plenty of H motors with belt and belt off never noticed anything different. Maybe its just knowing that supposedly it makes it run rougher and since they belt is off its in your head as it runs rougher? lol
idk how people notice the vibration from the balancer shaft belt being off.. ive had plenty of H motors with belt and belt off never noticed anything different. Maybe its just knowing that supposedly it makes it run rougher and since they belt is off its in your head as it runs rougher? lol
you have aftermarket mounts and a engine in a car thats not to suppose to be in. of course its gonna run rougher
^ LoL what he said though
for a F20 in a CRV seen the one pic of the V with the K20
can't imagine that kind of nightmare lol would be SWEET!
GL
for a F20 in a CRV seen the one pic of the V with the K20
can't imagine that kind of nightmare lol would be SWEET!
GL
Funny...I had the identical issue with my B20V and found timing was off by 1 tooth. Corrected timing and it runs like a champ.
BTW...just curious but LinkJ...are you Jon, the guy I bought the motor from?
BTW...just curious but LinkJ...are you Jon, the guy I bought the motor from?
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