The blower motor in my '91 accord has gone from sometimes working to not working. Would that be the blower motor itself? I kinda thought if the motor went out that it would go out all at once and not only working sometimes down to not at all. Since it's not a cheap part or an easy replacement where would one start?

 

Try taking the blower out and connecting directly to your battery.if it works,your resistor pack is probably bad. For what its worth I have had to replace the resistor pack in my daughters 2007 civic two times in 2 months. I have been told I should relace blower motor too because it may be shorting out the resistor

 

awesome, thanks! sounds like I can attack this.

 

Yes the blower resistors are a common culprit for blower issues, although you said that it used to be intermittent now a permanent fault. That sounds more like a loose connection, the resistors either work or they don't.


Yes I would suggest replacing the motor, sounds like its pulling too much current and burning out the resistors.

 

This is my first attempt at a thread hijack...sorry

I just replaced my heater fan motor yesterday on my 1991 Accord Coupe, it was shot. On the bench the replacement put out very well but after installation the output on the defrost mode seemed weak. In fact it seemed weak regardless of whether it was floor, dash or defrost. I can hear the selector switch functioning so I assume it is working properly. I wonder if I missed something when I installed it back into the car. Thanks for any and all advice!

 

can't answer that one maybe someone else has an idea to help you. good luck with yours. Still can't figure why mine was intermittent and then died yet.

 

wteebo, did you solve your problem? If so, how? Was it the motor, the resistor pack, or what?

Was your motor making any unusual noise before it failed?

The blower motor in my '91 Accord has been making an abnormal noise for awhile. And, today, it completely stopped working but later ran again but seemed very weak. Due to the prolonged period of abnormal noise, I'm assuming the motor is bad.

 

dderolf - no, haven't had a chance to look at it yet, been to dark and cold by the time I can get started, sounds like a weekend job. yours sure sounds exactly like what mine did - sounded like something stuck in the fan blades and then finally stopped working. mine never got weak though. Just seems odd to me that a motor wouldn't just go out but starts making sounds and then dies completely. i guess weirder things have happened... thanks for the input from yours. I'll probably just get the motor, just not looking forward to having to take it all out.

 

Guys, it isn't so bad taking the blower motor out but it will take time. You can try to put direct positive power to the motor from the battery while it is still installed by taking out the middle plug and pushing the hot wire up into the female side of the plug while the fan switch is on high. The plug closest to the engine compartment (white) is the actuator that controls air flow either from inside or outside the vehicle. The plug closest to the back of the car (reddish brown 5 pin) is the from the fan speed control switch on the dash. The middle plug (also reddish brown two pin) is the power for the fan motor that is supplied from the relay and fuse located on the driver’s side. If the fan motor runs strong when you supply power direct from your battery (to the wire with the orange stripe) then you can conclude that your problem lies elsewhere. You may want to try this prior to taking out the fan. Based on what you are saying I would suspect that you have issues with the fan motor anyway, but it would be nice to confirm prior to its removal. Remember, the side of the plug you remove is the male side and you do NOT want to run power into that side, it goes back to the relay.

 

I too had the intermitted head scratcher for a while as well. You can try a quick fix if your desperate. Sometimes the armature(the copper wire wrapped thingy that spins) in the motor itself develops a "dead spot". When you go to shut it off and it lands on the dead spot it won't have juice flowing when you go to fire it up. You can remove the blower motor protection plate(two phillips screws) under the glove box and if your hand is small enough reach up in the large vent hole and "prime" the fan blade to nudge it in to "live" position. Make sure the car is off when doing this. You don't want to slice up your fingers(although I doubt it would happen). I couldn't believe this worked until I actually did it! Wa la! heat!

Here is the post that led me to success.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...97&postcount=7

As far as the funny sound and weak output that someone else mentioned, sounds like a bearing going out to me...

Regaurdless, it will eventually fail when the whole armature or bearing goes bad and you will be forced to do the inevitable. Until then, happy trails...

Good Luck!

 

Thanks everyone for the advice - I'm looking to attack it this weekend!

 

Yell if we can be of any further assistance.

 

check through the different speed settings- if work normal on some or if works slow on all replace resistor and recheck. When pulling resistor out check the plug for it. Very common for those to melt. If plug melted most likely blower motor is drawing too much current and should be replaced or the resistor is shorted.. if replacing resistor and the plug has any black on it or smells burnt replace.the pigtail - can get from honda or junkyard. Blower motor.and resistor.you.can get from ebay for a fraction of a price of parts store. At the shop we usually do blower motor and resistor together to avoid having to do work twice. They are cheap enough and you are already there.

On your car there should be a blower motor relay also. From ebay new motor is $52 shipped resistor around 35 - 40 shipped and relay is around $20 shipped also. Relay you can get at advance and try it just to see.