Okay, so I have an h22a1 external dizzy.

my question is this.. if the rotor within the dizzy isn't facing towards the no. 1 cylinder could it cause the ckp sensor to throw a cel because the ckp is detecting that the crank angle is off from the rotor being off as well?

 

If the CKP magnet is out of synch with the cam/crank then it could very well throw a code. Have you ruled out wiring issues and also checked the resistance of the sensor itself?

 

The rotor only goes on one way, it's fixed relative to the cam sensor as they are both mounted on the distributor shaft. I also believe the end that goes into the cam is offset so it can only be installed one way. But if your signal wires aren't shielded it will mess with the sensor.

 

Okay, I was just curious. I did some reading in my 92 - 96 prelude helms pdf and read that the CKP sensors colored wires were blu/yel & blu/grn. Both of which, on my dizzy, are fine. I will be taking pictures though soon to post on here.

I'm gonna check the pins on the ecu to make sure they're getting the correct ohms and if not, i guess find out where the short is. This dizzy is brand new, but i'll take pics soon for you guys.

 

Alright, here's an update! 7pm, 12-15-12

I took pictures of inside my dizzy for you all to take a gander at.
I checked my ecu, same codes..

CEL 4 (CKP), 10(IAT), & 15(Ignition output signal).

I'm not sure i'm checking the my meter right, how exactly do i check the blu/grn, blu/yel wires that run to my crank angle sensor?

 

That is your distributor ignition rotor. That does not have anything to do with the CKP. However, if that is not pointing to the No. 1 cylinder at TDC you could have some issues.

 

Thanks Ghost, I knew that, lol. It isn't. But Idk how to set it to TDC. I also have no idea how to fix my CKP issue. I've replaced the distributor and got the same result.

It's been two weeks now and I really need my car operational again.

 

After you replaced the distributor did you reset the ECU? Disconnect your negative battery cable for 30sec - minute and that will reset the ECU and clear any stored codes.

If you have cleared the ECU and you are still getting a CKP error, you should check the continuity on the two CKP wires between the distributor and ECU. You could ahve a short/open in one of the wires.

Just a point of interest, I notice that there are some spliced wires in behind the distributor in one of those pictures. Could you pass on a bit of information as to what chassis this engine is in and what has been done as far as possible swapped parts.....

We need to know some background on your engine and chassis to be able to give you more help into your current issue. Minimum - Year & Trim of both engine and chassis.

 

Yes Ghost I have cleared the ecu. The spliced wires were me connecting the two black/yel wires to pos side of msd coil & green to neg side of msd coil.

It's a '91 accord DX with the H22A1 motor & tranny.
No internal work has been done to the motor.

A few mods I've done is..
- wired up VTEC
- p28 chipped ecu
- battery in trunk

I'm running NGK iridium plugs & wires.
Dizzy is external & i don't know how to set the rotor to TDC without taking the dizzy out of the camshaft.

 

Was this setup running properly before the error code issues? Or is this the first time you have tried to run the swap?

Sounds like there may be an issue with the external coil swap. The code 15 points to ether the coil, it's wires or the ICM or ECU.....

Do you have a helms manual for the 93 Prelude or your 90 Accord? You should have both so you can troubleshoot these types of wiring issues.

 

Yes I managed to get both in a PDF. Yes it ran before, one day after work I was driving home & it just started to drive in limp mode. I checked my CEL codes & I was throwing 4, 10, & 15. So I researched the CKP sensor code & ended up buying a new external dizzy. Put it in, wired it up, it runs now but still throws the same codes. I also replaced my IAT sensor & it still throws the code for it as well.

 

Should look into your chipped ECU maybe. The step by step troubleshooting for each one of those error codes is in those PDF shop manuals. The last step in most of those troubleshooting charts is sometimes to try a new or known good working ECU. Do you know anyone with an OBD1 P13?



On a side note from your current codes. Did you happen to swap ECU pins A11 & A6 on the wire side of the ECU harness? The OBD1 Accord has those two circuits switched compared to all of the other OBD1 ECU's.

 

No I haven't switched those two. And no I don't know anyone with a p13. Could you tell me how to check my wires for the ohms difference? I have a multimeter. I've never had to check before so i don't know how to do it.

 

This is a pretty good video about multimeter usage....
I use a manual range multimeter that he says is garbage. I know how to set it so it's not an issue fighting to find the proper settings as he talks about. Most of the manual multimeters come with instructions and are labeled to show you what selection to set the dial to for basic usage.

 

Thanks man, I'll post here when I do that & let y