gsr ignition timing trouble
i have a 2000 gsr that i just pulled the head off of to do a head gasket and a few other small things. i put everything back together right. tdc mark lines up (off buy a hair cuz i resurfaced the head but if i go another tooth it will be wayyy off) , cams line up perfect, but when i goto advance my distributor it will only go so far. it fires about 2 degrees before tdc but should be at 16 before. i checked my cam and crank many times. all is good there. was working fine before. it starts and runs but runs rough because the timing is so far off. im leaning toward a crank or cam sensor or distributor. the dizzy advances to 16 when i rev it up wich is where it should be at idle so i dont think its the dizzy but im stumped at this point. are the sensor adjustable maybe???? or some way to reset something... please help.
Have you pulled the distrbutor cap to confirm rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder when it is at TDC?
Are the spark leads plugged in properly...
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yea firing order is right. timing belt is fine. the crank doesnt line up exact but its pretty dam close. and if i go any farther it will be way off. i had the head machined so its normal to be off by a hair from what i heard
and yea i pulled the cap when i took it apart. its pointing at 1. it fires up just doesnt idle very well and i go to advance it it advances but 2 degrees before tdc is as far as it will advance. what sensors have to do with your ign timing??? crank cam and tdc sensors right. its obd2 by the way if that makes any diff.
yea valves are adjusted rite and no way 2 mix up injector wires. theyre to short.. its not a random missfire. i know why its missing but i just cant figure out how 2 correct the problem... the dizzy is on a bracket so no way to move any farther. it fires at 2 before tdc and wont advance any more. i can retard it if i want but 2 before is as far as it advances
Dude here's the thing
If the cam isn't in time static timing with the crank you won't be able to advance it enough in it adjustment to make it work for ign timing. So something is wrong, obviously you say. Well take it all apart again. Verify for sure that its in time..
By chance it didn't sheer a key on the cam. It's the same distributer as the one that was on it before you took it apart and was it dropped. Something happend that isn't being told or something is f-Ed up by someone.
If the cam isn't in time static timing with the crank you won't be able to advance it enough in it adjustment to make it work for ign timing. So something is wrong, obviously you say. Well take it all apart again. Verify for sure that its in time..
By chance it didn't sheer a key on the cam. It's the same distributer as the one that was on it before you took it apart and was it dropped. Something happend that isn't being told or something is f-Ed up by someone.
ive checked to make sure that the cam and crank where in time like 6 times now. i did it again just for ***** and giggles. they are for sure in time. i know i didnt drop the dizzy. it was at a friends garage but no 1 told me anything about droping it.. im gonna try a freinds dizzy and see if thats the problem but thats all i can think of. cuz i have checked everything else there is to check
With the camshafts lined up, the crankshaft mark will be off about 1/2 a tooth, even when they are set properly on gsr's. that's just the way they are.
Last edited by MikeM; Dec 29, 2012 at 10:29 AM.
yea i got that. the mechanical timing is on. ive established it is for sure an ignition problem just not sure what. when i put the timing light on it the light will sputter and cut out so its not getting spark all the time. and the timing still wont go past about 5 degrees before tdc so im thinking it could be the ignition module. since just about everything that has to do with ignition on a gsr is inside the dizzy im gonna try that next. if any one has any suggestions please give them.
By your description, Im sure your cam sprockets and cranksprockets are all in the proper positions, but a cam or the crank may still be out of time. Remove the bolt from the exhaust cam sprocket, make sure the key way is installed, if its not installed, the camshaft could be out of alignment with the sprocket, thereby causing the timing to be incorrect. You can also check the intake cam, and the crank key way if needed. This is what 98 lude was mentioning.
it's not going to be a sheared or lost key way. it wouldn't even run if it were. the cam would just spin completely out of time with the crank.
first, get another timing light. the pick up coil inside yours is pooched. that's why it's intermittently working. second, i don't think you have the service connector jumped. you may think you do, but the pins are probably not making good contact. you really need to force that cotter pin into the pins to get a good connection.
reason i don't believe the connector is jumped and you haven't entered base timing mode is that the ecm is still advancing timing when you rev the engine, as you'd stated previously. if base timing is entered, the ecm should not be advancing timing with engine speed. that's the whole reasoning behind entering base timing. so the ecm does not interfere while making your adjustment
first, get another timing light. the pick up coil inside yours is pooched. that's why it's intermittently working. second, i don't think you have the service connector jumped. you may think you do, but the pins are probably not making good contact. you really need to force that cotter pin into the pins to get a good connection.
reason i don't believe the connector is jumped and you haven't entered base timing mode is that the ecm is still advancing timing when you rev the engine, as you'd stated previously. if base timing is entered, the ecm should not be advancing timing with engine speed. that's the whole reasoning behind entering base timing. so the ecm does not interfere while making your adjustment
it's not going to be a sheared or lost key way. it wouldn't even run if it were. the cam would just spin completely out of time with the crank.
first, get another timing light. the pick up coil inside yours is pooched. that's why it's intermittently working. second, i don't think you have the service connector jumped. you may think you do, but the pins are probably not making good contact. you really need to force that cotter pin into the pins to get a good connection.
reason i don't believe the connector is jumped and you haven't entered base timing mode is that the ecm is still advancing timing when you rev the engine, as you'd stated previously. if base timing is entered, the ecm should not be advancing timing with engine speed. that's the whole reasoning behind entering base timing. so the ecm does not interfere while making your adjustment
first, get another timing light. the pick up coil inside yours is pooched. that's why it's intermittently working. second, i don't think you have the service connector jumped. you may think you do, but the pins are probably not making good contact. you really need to force that cotter pin into the pins to get a good connection.
reason i don't believe the connector is jumped and you haven't entered base timing mode is that the ecm is still advancing timing when you rev the engine, as you'd stated previously. if base timing is entered, the ecm should not be advancing timing with engine speed. that's the whole reasoning behind entering base timing. so the ecm does not interfere while making your adjustment
hmm. that is odd. and when you're lining up the cams, the lines at the sides of the gears are lining up perfectly with the valve cover seating surface on the head? i know, you've gone through this part a zillion times, but something is not right here.
th that mark.
figured it out after not touching it for hella long cuz i was so pissed. it was the timing belt sensioner. it wasnt in the pivot point. i got it runin for about a week or 2 and now it quit on me again... it just shut off and its getting fuel but no spark so guess i got some trouble shooting to do now......
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