Couple quesions about my 94 EG HB.
Ok first off i would like whoever wishes to reply to this opinion on which product they like and why.
Well i have a 94 Cvic HB and when i first got it the wheel bearing was broken and when i drove it, it knocked like crazy and LOUD, so i replaced it and the knocking went away. But after i peeled out a couple times the knocking came back, i was then told my alignment was probably bad. Then i was told i need B-series axles if i want to be peeling out once in a while. (I have a D15b7) So what i want to know is, what parts can i buy so i can race and not have to worry about wheel bearings and axles breaking so often. (i know parts breakdown, nothing last forever) And what parts do you all recommend?
Well i have a 94 Cvic HB and when i first got it the wheel bearing was broken and when i drove it, it knocked like crazy and LOUD, so i replaced it and the knocking went away. But after i peeled out a couple times the knocking came back, i was then told my alignment was probably bad. Then i was told i need B-series axles if i want to be peeling out once in a while. (I have a D15b7) So what i want to know is, what parts can i buy so i can race and not have to worry about wheel bearings and axles breaking so often. (i know parts breakdown, nothing last forever) And what parts do you all recommend?
Stop driving like an idiot, and you'll stop breaking parts. Seriously, "burning out" only slows you down.
Also, whoever told you to use B series axles is stupid. Don't listen to them.
Also, whoever told you to use B series axles is stupid. Don't listen to them.
and hey told me using b-series axles are better then using the d-series because there stronger then the d-series. (which i know nothing about)
Warming up your tires? Do you even know what optimal tire temps are? Do you know what tire compounds you're running? Yes, what you think is "warming up your tires" is stupid.
Stop street racing, and stop breaking your own car. B series axles won't work, period.
Stop street racing, and stop breaking your own car. B series axles won't work, period.
Why do you street race? do you plan on hurting yourself or others? because it will happen eventually. I've known too many people who thought street racing their honda was awesome until they rolled the car doing 75. You gotta pay to play.
B series axles are not usable.
B series axles are not usable.
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Stop it, just ... stop it. Stop driving idiotically, and you'll stop ******* up your car. Stop giving Honda drivers (and Civics in particular) a bad name. Start reading about how to be a better driver, and start listening to the more intelligent people on this forum who know more than to recommend B-series axles on a D-series engine like one of your "friends" says (who you should probably stop talking to).
honestly idk what all your problem is because no said anything about street racing lol
we have a motorplex here in TX
and deschlong i am trying learn more about my car which is why i posted this and yet you jack asses dont know the meaning of help all you people like to do is rag on people instead od help... when you help someone, you tell them what there doing wrong and then lead them in the right direction not tell them how stupid they are for street racing (which i never said i was street racing) and as for hearing about b-series being better d-series and how i heard it from, no it wasn't from a friend and never did i say i heard it from a friend... so why dont you a**holes learn how to help someone who is trying to learn instead of talking crap just because there not "knowledgeable" as you.
BTW any "knowledgeable" people out there willing to answer, and no stray away from question of the form like someone with there egos so high, feel free to answer the question. I'd really like to know
we have a motorplex here in TX
and deschlong i am trying learn more about my car which is why i posted this and yet you jack asses dont know the meaning of help all you people like to do is rag on people instead od help... when you help someone, you tell them what there doing wrong and then lead them in the right direction not tell them how stupid they are for street racing (which i never said i was street racing) and as for hearing about b-series being better d-series and how i heard it from, no it wasn't from a friend and never did i say i heard it from a friend... so why dont you a**holes learn how to help someone who is trying to learn instead of talking crap just because there not "knowledgeable" as you.
BTW any "knowledgeable" people out there willing to answer, and no stray away from question of the form like someone with there egos so high, feel free to answer the question. I'd really like to know
So this knocking noise back after how many miles?
Are all of the bolts for your suspension set-up tight? Does it knock with the revolutions of the wheels? Only happening on one side? Does it only happen when you are accelerating?
Are all of the bolts for your suspension set-up tight? Does it knock with the revolutions of the wheels? Only happening on one side? Does it only happen when you are accelerating?
Forgive me -- all I focused on was "peeling out", "breaking parts", "B-series axles on a D-series" and "racing". You can see how it was hard for me to get to the last sentence. But, this does not excuse such a *general* question being ultimately posed in your original post.
I strongly suggest you start reading more - LOTS more - before you start asking such a general question as the one in your original post. Then come back when you have SPECIFIC questions about SPECIFIC parts. I am not trying to be snarky here, nor have a holier than thou attitude. I am suggesting that you become informed on your own before asking for the advice of others.
Finally - for the record, I was helping you by telling you to stop driving idiotically, and start driving like a normal person, regardless if this is on the street or at a motorplex, with your stock vehicle. But, I think you seem to have realized this yourself that bringing a stock vehicle to a motorplex and thinking it will survive the stress without breaking parts, doesn't work.
I strongly suggest you start reading more - LOTS more - before you start asking such a general question as the one in your original post. Then come back when you have SPECIFIC questions about SPECIFIC parts. I am not trying to be snarky here, nor have a holier than thou attitude. I am suggesting that you become informed on your own before asking for the advice of others.
Finally - for the record, I was helping you by telling you to stop driving idiotically, and start driving like a normal person, regardless if this is on the street or at a motorplex, with your stock vehicle. But, I think you seem to have realized this yourself that bringing a stock vehicle to a motorplex and thinking it will survive the stress without breaking parts, doesn't work.
So this knocking noise back after how many miles?
Are all of the bolts for your suspension set-up tight? Does it knock with the revolutions of the wheels? Only happening on one side? Does it only happen when you are accelerating?
Are all of the bolts for your suspension set-up tight? Does it knock with the revolutions of the wheels? Only happening on one side? Does it only happen when you are accelerating?
and you are just gonna need new tires soon if you keep peeling out. I mean if you have money to "burn" then by all means peel out.
bottom line is b series axles wont work, are your rotor's warped? if not then just go through and look for warn parts.
The axle needs to match the transmission. B series transmissions and D series transmissions don't match. Also, motor for motor, B series aren't necessarily "stronger". They're still fragile as ****.
If money isn't an issue as you claim, get some proper axles from DriveShaft Shop.
To answer your previous question, yes, "warming up" your tires is stupid, unless you know what kind of target temps you want. You can't know target temps without knowing compounds. I'd also put money on you still using street tires, negating the idea of "warming up your tires" even more.
If we want to negate that idea even more, we can talk about LSDs and one wheel wonders. Oh wait, let me guess, you're also swapping front tires between burn outs, right?
You're breaking things because you're treating your car like ****, and not driving it correctly. Legal racing or not, your car isn't set up to burn out, and I guarantee you aren't driving far enough to the limit that warm tires even matters.
Now then, to your actual question - the knocking. Have you done anything diagnostic to try to figure out where the noise is coming from? I'm going to guess you haven't.
First, bounce test your car on all four corners. A bounce test is simple - Put the weight of your body directly above the shock on each corner, one at a time, and bounce the car at each corner individually. When you stop bouncing one corner, it should come to rest in less than two rebound cycles (up+down=one cycle). If it doesn't, your shock on that corner is blown. While you're doing that, listen for the knocking noise. If you hear knocking, but the car comes to rest in less than two rebounds, then one of your suspension bushings is shot - go ahead and replace all of them on that axle.
If your shocks pass the bounce test, and you don't hear any knocking, then it's time to lift the car. Either secure it on a shop lift, or on jack stands. Make sure your lug nuts are tight to spec. Grab the tire at 12/6. Try with all your strength to wiggle it. If it wiggles, you have either A) blown ball joints, B) a blown wheel hub bearing, or C) all of the above. Now grab the tire at 9/3. Try again to wiggle it. If it wiggles this time, you have either A) blown tie rods, B) blown tie rod ends, C) a loose steering rack, D) a blown wheel hub bearing, or E) any combination of the above.
After you've done these diagnostic tests, get back with us and we might actually be able to help you solve something, instead of just taking stabs back and fourth about how pointlessly abusive you are to your car.
If money isn't an issue as you claim, get some proper axles from DriveShaft Shop.
To answer your previous question, yes, "warming up" your tires is stupid, unless you know what kind of target temps you want. You can't know target temps without knowing compounds. I'd also put money on you still using street tires, negating the idea of "warming up your tires" even more.
If we want to negate that idea even more, we can talk about LSDs and one wheel wonders. Oh wait, let me guess, you're also swapping front tires between burn outs, right?
You're breaking things because you're treating your car like ****, and not driving it correctly. Legal racing or not, your car isn't set up to burn out, and I guarantee you aren't driving far enough to the limit that warm tires even matters.Now then, to your actual question - the knocking. Have you done anything diagnostic to try to figure out where the noise is coming from? I'm going to guess you haven't.
First, bounce test your car on all four corners. A bounce test is simple - Put the weight of your body directly above the shock on each corner, one at a time, and bounce the car at each corner individually. When you stop bouncing one corner, it should come to rest in less than two rebound cycles (up+down=one cycle). If it doesn't, your shock on that corner is blown. While you're doing that, listen for the knocking noise. If you hear knocking, but the car comes to rest in less than two rebounds, then one of your suspension bushings is shot - go ahead and replace all of them on that axle.
If your shocks pass the bounce test, and you don't hear any knocking, then it's time to lift the car. Either secure it on a shop lift, or on jack stands. Make sure your lug nuts are tight to spec. Grab the tire at 12/6. Try with all your strength to wiggle it. If it wiggles, you have either A) blown ball joints, B) a blown wheel hub bearing, or C) all of the above. Now grab the tire at 9/3. Try again to wiggle it. If it wiggles this time, you have either A) blown tie rods, B) blown tie rod ends, C) a loose steering rack, D) a blown wheel hub bearing, or E) any combination of the above.
After you've done these diagnostic tests, get back with us and we might actually be able to help you solve something, instead of just taking stabs back and fourth about how pointlessly abusive you are to your car.
Now then, to your actual question - the knocking. Have you done anything diagnostic to try to figure out where the noise is coming from? I'm going to guess you haven't.
Axles, get them from DriveShaft Shop, if you want something stupidly strong. Otherwise, get Honda OEM. For bearings, you want NTN, Timken, or Koyo - all OEM manufacturers.
I just read through the thread again. This is the fourth time now that I've read everything you've posted here. There is zero mention of any diagnostic tests performed, other than "going around tightening up bolts". That isn't diagnostic.
I just read through the thread again. This is the fourth time now that I've read everything you've posted here. There is zero mention of any diagnostic tests performed, other than "going around tightening up bolts". That isn't diagnostic.
Wow this got out of hand right away and I know why.
Your question was general, and you need to be specific like what was said a few posts earlier.
So I take it you are drag racing...? Dead giveaway "Motorplex"
But that information didnt come out till your second or third post... idk which i dont want to go back a read again.
You must be specific or people will flame you.
You can drag anything you want B, D, F, two hamsters in a wheel, it doesnt make any difference.
Axels breaking... well some would say OEM doesnt cut it, some would argue.
Personally if I were breaking axels then you should go with an aftermarket one.
Insane shafts make a plethora... lol
I like that word "Plethora" of Honda axels for all engine types
D,B,H,F Etc.
http://insaneshafts.com/
There is also the driveshaft shop. Same here.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/honda
You have a knocking sound... did you check the wheel bearing race before you replaced it?
If its scared up you should be looking at replacing the hub.
Cant also rule out a bearing in the tranny too?
Much to look at.
Burn outs on street tires is just plain stupid.
They arent a slick compound so you are only wasting good tire material you can use on the street.
Practice clean launches with zero wheel spin. (at the track only)
Suspension for a drag car... im going to say go look on the drag racing forum for opinions from those who drag race.
This is a general forum not a specific one, if you are having issues related to drag racing look in that forum for answers.
FYI car set ups are tuned to the drivers driving style and needs.
One set up does not work for all.
This is something you will have to discover for yourself, trial and error with suspension parts.
Word of caution. Not all aftermarket suspension parts work well with each other.
Some counter act another.
Your question was general, and you need to be specific like what was said a few posts earlier.
So I take it you are drag racing...? Dead giveaway "Motorplex"
But that information didnt come out till your second or third post... idk which i dont want to go back a read again.
You must be specific or people will flame you.
You can drag anything you want B, D, F, two hamsters in a wheel, it doesnt make any difference.
Axels breaking... well some would say OEM doesnt cut it, some would argue.
Personally if I were breaking axels then you should go with an aftermarket one.
Insane shafts make a plethora... lol
I like that word "Plethora" of Honda axels for all engine types D,B,H,F Etc.
http://insaneshafts.com/
There is also the driveshaft shop. Same here.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/honda
You have a knocking sound... did you check the wheel bearing race before you replaced it?
If its scared up you should be looking at replacing the hub.
Cant also rule out a bearing in the tranny too?
Much to look at.
Burn outs on street tires is just plain stupid.
They arent a slick compound so you are only wasting good tire material you can use on the street.
Practice clean launches with zero wheel spin. (at the track only)
Suspension for a drag car... im going to say go look on the drag racing forum for opinions from those who drag race.
This is a general forum not a specific one, if you are having issues related to drag racing look in that forum for answers.
FYI car set ups are tuned to the drivers driving style and needs.
One set up does not work for all.
This is something you will have to discover for yourself, trial and error with suspension parts.
Word of caution. Not all aftermarket suspension parts work well with each other.
Some counter act another.
Axles, get them from DriveShaft Shop, if you want something stupidly strong. Otherwise, get Honda OEM. For bearings, you want NTN, Timken, or Koyo - all OEM manufacturers.
I just read through the thread again. This is the fourth time now that I've read everything you've posted here. There is zero mention of any diagnostic tests performed, other than "going around tightening up bolts". That isn't diagnostic.
I just read through the thread again. This is the fourth time now that I've read everything you've posted here. There is zero mention of any diagnostic tests performed, other than "going around tightening up bolts". That isn't diagnostic.
Start off by downloading a maintenance manual.
Get to know and love your civic.
I hug my race car everyday
sometimes more than once if i visit the garage numerous times.
Wow this got out of hand right away and I know why.
Your question was general, and you need to be specific like what was said a few posts earlier.
So I take it you are drag racing...? Dead giveaway "Motorplex"
But that information didnt come out till your second or third post... idk which i dont want to go back a read again.
You must be specific or people will flame you.
You can drag anything you want B, D, F, two hamsters in a wheel, it doesnt make any difference.
Axels breaking... well some would say OEM doesnt cut it, some would argue.
Personally if I were breaking axels then you should go with an aftermarket one.
Insane shafts make a plethora... lol
I like that word "Plethora" of Honda axels for all engine types
D,B,H,F Etc.
http://insaneshafts.com/
There is also the driveshaft shop. Same here.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/honda
You have a knocking sound... did you check the wheel bearing race before you replaced it?
If its scared up you should be looking at replacing the hub.
Cant also rule out a bearing in the tranny too?
Much to look at.
Suspension for a drag car... im going to say go look on the drag racing forum for opinions from those who drag race.
This is a general forum not a specific one, if you are having issues related to drag racing look in that forum for answers.
FYI car set ups are tuned to the drivers driving style and needs.
One set up does not work for all.
This is something you will have to discover for yourself, trial and error with suspension parts.
Word of caution. Not all aftermarket suspension parts work well with each other.
Some counter act another.
Your question was general, and you need to be specific like what was said a few posts earlier.
So I take it you are drag racing...? Dead giveaway "Motorplex"
But that information didnt come out till your second or third post... idk which i dont want to go back a read again.
You must be specific or people will flame you.
You can drag anything you want B, D, F, two hamsters in a wheel, it doesnt make any difference.
Axels breaking... well some would say OEM doesnt cut it, some would argue.
Personally if I were breaking axels then you should go with an aftermarket one.
Insane shafts make a plethora... lol
I like that word "Plethora" of Honda axels for all engine types D,B,H,F Etc.
http://insaneshafts.com/
There is also the driveshaft shop. Same here.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/honda
You have a knocking sound... did you check the wheel bearing race before you replaced it?
If its scared up you should be looking at replacing the hub.
Cant also rule out a bearing in the tranny too?
Much to look at.
Suspension for a drag car... im going to say go look on the drag racing forum for opinions from those who drag race.
This is a general forum not a specific one, if you are having issues related to drag racing look in that forum for answers.
FYI car set ups are tuned to the drivers driving style and needs.
One set up does not work for all.
This is something you will have to discover for yourself, trial and error with suspension parts.
Word of caution. Not all aftermarket suspension parts work well with each other.
Some counter act another.
but thats besides the point. Again dirty19 thanks for the links and the info i will definitely check them out. really hope i find a good setup lol
I think most of the people flame because nobody searches.
They are either lazy or dont know how or they just want to be spoon fed.
It gets frustrating seeing 15 "blown head gasket" threads in one day.
Everyone thinks their issue is indiginous to them only, when there are millions of the same problems out there.
So chances are if you have a problem, and want to ask.. its been asked a million times on the forum already.
JBP gave you a link too... before i did.
More FYI.
When you search ,and i hope you learn to do this...
Go to Google,ask your question and include "honda-tech" in the question.
Watch what happens.
They are either lazy or dont know how or they just want to be spoon fed.
It gets frustrating seeing 15 "blown head gasket" threads in one day.
Everyone thinks their issue is indiginous to them only, when there are millions of the same problems out there.
So chances are if you have a problem, and want to ask.. its been asked a million times on the forum already.
JBP gave you a link too... before i did.
More FYI.
When you search ,and i hope you learn to do this...
Go to Google,ask your question and include "honda-tech" in the question.
Watch what happens.
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