project pos (1992 ls with b20 swap) is back to causing problems..
pretty much a wtf situation now cuz its like theres always something with this thing.
-it will run every now and then, it always cranks, sometimes will run for a few seconds then die, sometimes not turn over.
-it seems theres no voltage at the thermostat ground (but i dont see how the fuel pump and all that would work if its not grounding right?)
-yes, fuel pump primes, cel goes on and off
-ive been lone ranger the past couple days so spark testing is pretty much trying to record the plugs with my phone, from what i see before the phone falls it looks like i do have spark. (im gonna test em better when i can though)
-when it is running sometimes its all good and other times itll start missing/backfiring
-ive got a "new" distributor on now cuz my icm and coil tested bad in the old one, but lately it wont start at all

i dont wanna sound stupid but can i try grounding the g101 ground somewhere else? i havent looked too close but if there was alot of that like silicone/copper gasket put on the thermostat would it affect it? (i really dont think so but idk anymore)

im pretty much just rambling off what all i can do at this point cuz im honestly confused and feel like im at a stand still.

any help is greatly appreciated if you actually read this.

 

well today i switched to my old ecu (pr4, i was running a p75), rechecked timing (mechanical and ignition), and went over lil odds and ends and i got it to run.
it ran fine except under 1000 rpm if i didnt ease the throttle it kinda lagged (im assuming this is part due to the b18 ecu fuel maps being different than whats needed for the b20? could be wrong..)
i let it warm up and sit to make sure its warm, turned off. turned back on and ran fine twice.
maybe 5-7 min smoke break and it started back up but sounded like its missing a cylinder, two at times, then died out and wont start.
sounds like the icm in this distributor maybe no good either? im gonna check it out.

side note- i have a walbro 190 and a lil over 1/8th in the gas tank right now. i know its not good and they dont like being low on fuel but this wouldnt cause all this right? ima slap myself if it is...

 

so today it seemed fine, and i ended up taking it out for a drive. once warmed up is when it starts having all the problems.
sounds like missing, and today between 2-3k rpm it was really bad with no throttle response at all unless i lightly press it.
before the swap it threw a tps code so i went and checked that, had to recalibrate it but still same problems. (feels more responsive though when its not running bad)

BUT! it threw a new code for me today, 5-the map sensor, which i know will make it run bad. THIS bad though?
i forgot to plug it in on my del sol once and it ran rough but i cant remember it being like this..

now it will only not start if it does the whole missing, bogging, whatever you wanna call it. and still if i let it sit like 5 min it will start back up. (possible icm, bout to go test mine right now actually)

i feel im getting closer but still far from actually having this car ready to go.
once again ANY input on past experience is much appreciated.

 

Both the ICM and coil are susceptible to heat related problems, test them.

Also, check fuel pressure when stalling is occurring, a FPG mounted to the fuel filter is the best way to check FP when you are having intermittent problems. 94

 

im pretty sure both coil and icm are good. all my coils and my buddies end up reading 2 ohms (it says its supposed to be like .6 - .8 or something) but his is good for sure so idk why its reading that. and icm couldnt test at autozone but my car starts so im writing it off for now.

BECAUSE... i disconnected the vaccum line from the fpr (fuel pressure regulator) to the intake manifold and my baby ran and ran and didnt wanna sputter or anything. all warmed up, i even got on it to try and make her stall out but didnt. i dont have money to get a fuel pressure tester but im pretty sure disconnecting that line raised the pressure a bit because everything seems ramped up once unplugged, and if i plug it back in it drops down to where it usually is and sounds the same kinda "chugga"

so only real question is, do you think its just my fpr is not working right? like once warm and off the ecu's "warm up map" it isnt functioning? (even though its a mechanical part?)
or maybe fuel pump (walbro 190) going out and not giving enough pressure through the lines? (i know i need the tester)

 

I'm thinking now that the pressure is higher I'm now running rich enough for the b20. So if get an adjustable fpr can I just raise the pressure up until I can get everything tuned better?

 

Fuel pump not sealing right

 

You do not need an expensive fuel pressure tester, just get a fuel pressure gauge and permanently mount it, you can get one that will do the job for under $25 a good one for under $50...
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_trksi...at=0&_from=R40

I have the B&M one mounted at the fuel filter. 94

 

Resurrecting this cuz the engine has started the sputtering and backfiring again as of yesterday. My tach also will jump around while this happens.
I went and got replacemt icm and coil and still the same problem.
Tried switching out the ignition and nothing.
It would throw codes while this is happening but I suspect its just misfire codes, cuz nothing is stored when I go to pull them.
When I have time I'm gonna try switching tps and see if that does anything.

I have a video of this I'm gonna try and post.

 

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/1...syxkltwohv.mp4

Not the best bit once I'm in 4th you start to hear it and in 5th its pretty much constant

And @fcm as far as the fuel is. Concerned I got a fpr and raised pressure to about 45 psi and it had been running fine up until yesterday, guess it was just blind luck to install that and have problem go away.

Forgot to mention this seems to only happen once car is warmed up.