I have a d15z1 that I use as a daily driver and I am wanting to upgrade it on a budget. So here is what I have.
Stock 94 civic vx (d15z1) 113k origional miles
Everything will be ran off the stock system (i.e. obd1 ecu/harnes, etc)

Plans to upgrade
D16z6 Head
D16z6 gasket
D16y8 Intake manifold
D16y7 Pistons
D15z1 new main & rod bearings

D15z1 dizzy and vtec selinoid will be put on the D16z6 head.

Questions to the forum.
1. Does the timing belt need to be for the D16z6 spec?
2. Other than modifing the pin for the 02 sensor. How am I going to use the intake manifold? Do I need to convert the manifold wiring or is it still a plug and play?
3. Will the d16y7 pistons fit inside the block? I did the compression ratio calculater and I am around 11:1.
4. Is anything I am propossing going to cause me a headache and/or will not work?

 

Waste of time and money.
What kind of power do you think you're going to make out of this?

 

Don't separate the d15z1 sell the whole motor and trans. Then when gas is 5$ gal you'll hate yourself. Sell me your 02 and exhaust manifold with cat if your going to do a swap. If you were closer i would take the whole setup. Get a whole motor and trans if you want to go fast. Get a 500$ runner and so a swap. Also use the ecu out of other car. The p07 is only for that car not Chippable so. Sell me that also.

 

Probably around 130hp. The reason for the build is that I have a new build head that I bought for $100. Intake is $70 and pistons are $65. I have to rehone my block and replace my pistons because I have 2 cylinders that are leaking oil due to bad oil rings. So I just want to hone my block swap pistons and then place a new head on and complete it within a day. Instead of taking my head off and rebuilding it and having this take about 3 days.

 

If I wanted to do a power swap I would build a J35A to a 12:1 and call it a day. I don't have the time or money for that so I just want to do something that will be quick and cheap. Oregon does not have as many B swaps and a k swap is a joke.

 

Look up the compression height for the stock pistons vs the ones you want to install. Then do the math to combine the stroke/2, rod length, and compression height and compare that sum to the block height and see what you get.

 

Alternatively, you can use http://www.zealautowerks.com/ to do the calculations for you before spending money on any parts.

 

I used http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html

 

^That won't show what I'm getting at.

 

It would be helpful if you were less cryptic, and said exactly what you're getting at. Alternatively, what you're talking about calculating is listed right at the bottom: Piston-to-deck height.

 

To be honest, I have never ever noticed that!! Having said that, without being cryptic, OP look at the piston-to-deck height. If that is ok with you (meaning there's enough room in the combustion chamber) then you're good to go.

 

with the more common d16y8 piston I am calculating a 10.31:1 comp ratio.

 

would a obdii intake manifod be dificult to swap d16y8 is cheeper and easier to find than the z6

 

There's more to it than compression ratio. You also need to look at the P2D height, and from that figure out your P2V clearances. Alternatively, you could just mock it all up and put some modeling clay on top of the pistons, then turn the motor by hand, but why go through all that labor when the math can save you hours of work?

We must be putting something in differently, because I'm getting 10.8:1, with a P2D of -.061. Stock is ~+.02. I would personally be a little weary of that, but it's your motor to sit down and do the math on, not mine.

No, and OBD2A/B Y8 Mani would be easy to swap. They're done all the time. There are adapter harnesses made and available all over the place online to make it a plug and play affair.

 

In response to the PM that I've received from you, allow me to say a few pointers here.

Both the d15z1 ecu, and the d16y5 ecu are more complicated than the regular p06/p06/p28/p2p ecus. For this reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to piece together a more optimal setup that yields greater results without venturing into territory that would call for custom dyno tuning.

For this reason, departing from anything that wouldn't satisfy either the d15z1 ecu, or the the d16y5 ecu, should be avoided when trying to piece together a sensible, practical economic build.

Just my $0.02

 

Damn vtec-e. Good luck finding even a custom dyno shop who will touch it.

 

Yeah that's what I was saying from the beginning it would be easier to do a swap. Just any d series and use that ecu. You can pick up a running motor for cheap enough freshen it up outside the car t belt water pump ect and voila. You should be able to do that swap in about a day. And you know it's going to work. Either stick with the d15z1 setup as is or go another route frankin car with that ecu isn't choice.