Converting to COP
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
SO ive been doing tons of reading, Researching the pros and cons of COP.
Now the only question i really have is. Whats the most cost effective way to convert my bseries to COP, with out using the s300 or the aem twinfire. I currently am open minded to ANY EMS im thinking AEM EMS 4 or infinity.
Now the only question i really have is. Whats the most cost effective way to convert my bseries to COP, with out using the s300 or the aem twinfire. I currently am open minded to ANY EMS im thinking AEM EMS 4 or infinity.
There are a ton of great EMS available that have enough ignition outputs to handle what you're looking to do.
Haltech PS1000, MoTec M84, AEM Series 2, ProEFI 48 are all great entry level systems with the ability to do plenty for the average hobbyist.
The Infinity looks promising, but until it's been out for a bit, has undergone it's tweaks and revisions, and has some legitimate feedback, I'd keep it as a distant option for now.
Haltech PS1000, MoTec M84, AEM Series 2, ProEFI 48 are all great entry level systems with the ability to do plenty for the average hobbyist.
The Infinity looks promising, but until it's been out for a bit, has undergone it's tweaks and revisions, and has some legitimate feedback, I'd keep it as a distant option for now.
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
That too is my main concern, it looks great (infinity) but it is an AEM product so after it has gone through its paces on other peoples car. I wont be dropping cash on it.
There are a ton of great EMS available that have enough ignition outputs to handle what you're looking to do.
Haltech PS1000, MoTec M84, AEM Series 2, ProEFI 48 are all great entry level systems with the ability to do plenty for the average hobbyist.
The Infinity looks promising, but until it's been out for a bit, has undergone it's tweaks and revisions, and has some legitimate feedback, I'd keep it as a distant option for now.
Haltech PS1000, MoTec M84, AEM Series 2, ProEFI 48 are all great entry level systems with the ability to do plenty for the average hobbyist.
The Infinity looks promising, but until it's been out for a bit, has undergone it's tweaks and revisions, and has some legitimate feedback, I'd keep it as a distant option for now.
i ran aemv1 with k series coils and t1 trigger and loved it. picked up 100hp over a msd dis and coil setup and ran so much better with large inj. this being said, to me there is no con to going cop. there are used parts always forsale that you can pick up cheap to run cop. im not a big fan of the aem emp tho, have put it on a couple cars and always have had problems with them. always end up going with the cam trigger kit
T1 Trigger for sure. It's simple, cost-effective, and reliable.
There was just a car in here that had both an EPM and Trigger physically on it, long story short the EPM stopped working so the trigger went on lol.
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Thread Starter
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
SO one way to get rid of the distributor or the EPM is to use the T1 Trigger?
Now the T1 Trigger will not work with the Oem honda Ecu, But it will however work on a standalone such as AEM?
Now the T1 Trigger will not work with the Oem honda Ecu, But it will however work on a standalone such as AEM?
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From: pocatello, idaho, u.s.a.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the AEM EMS needs a "hall mod" to run the trigger correct? But I am assembling a full AEM kit, and will run the trigger myself for the first time. Also needing input on the subject.
All I had to do was change the jumper location inside my ecu. Here is the write up I did for mine.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-cop-t1-cam-trigger-rsx-coils-aem-ems-v1-3091520/
All the new aems have the proper amount of coil outputs and no modification other than to the tune is needed.
It all depends on what you want to support what power goals. From what I hear there are people using stock k20 coils up to 900hp without problems, no cdi box.
If you want a cdi box just make sure to get a good one like the m&w, either way much better than distributor and wires and so on.
Your cheapest bet would be to go aem, k20 coils and run 3 extra wires into the harness for the 3 extra triggers, one will come from the stock ignition signal wire thats on the factory harness. Thats the easiest way to go.
It all depends on what you want to support what power goals. From what I hear there are people using stock k20 coils up to 900hp without problems, no cdi box.
If you want a cdi box just make sure to get a good one like the m&w, either way much better than distributor and wires and so on.
Your cheapest bet would be to go aem, k20 coils and run 3 extra wires into the harness for the 3 extra triggers, one will come from the stock ignition signal wire thats on the factory harness. Thats the easiest way to go.
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
The honda ECU does have a table for coil dwell, It's mislabeled in crome as base timing, but it's a dwell adder. Neptune has dwell control.
so could you not use that and make a controller?
so could you not use that and make a controller?
Ems, t1 trigger and k20 coils with the 4130 plate here and works great.
D17 coils can fit under the stock plug cover as well.
Cbr coils are good and can be had cheap with a harness you would need a msd dis-4 or equivalent.
Simplest way imho is the ems, t1 setup and k20 coils and dont look back
D17 coils can fit under the stock plug cover as well.
Cbr coils are good and can be had cheap with a harness you would need a msd dis-4 or equivalent.
Simplest way imho is the ems, t1 setup and k20 coils and dont look back
Last edited by Chugger; Nov 10, 2012 at 08:10 AM.
Ems, t1 trigger and k20 coils with the 4130 plate here and works great.
D17 coils can fit under the stock plug cover as well.
Cbr coils are good and can be had cheap with a harness you would need a msd dis-4 or equivalent.
Simplest way imho is the ems, t1 setup and k20 coils and dont look back
D17 coils can fit under the stock plug cover as well.
Cbr coils are good and can be had cheap with a harness you would need a msd dis-4 or equivalent.
Simplest way imho is the ems, t1 setup and k20 coils and dont look back
M&W Pro14 for a street/strip car, Drag4/Pro Drag4 for anything dedicated.
K.I.S.S. concept - a new OEM K-Coil can do ~250 per hole, they're cheap and they work.
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From: pocatello, idaho, u.s.a.
So I have ems already, to run cop on over 800whp(hopefully) all that is needed is a t1 trigger kit, and a set of k20 coils? I always thought it was much more complicated!
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From: knockin boots in, Ohiooooo, USA
^ That why I started this tread.
I'm stuck on going with a EMS , T1 trigger and, either d17, k20, j series or, CBR.
I wont need a CDI, Twin Fire, or M&W Pro14 for a street/strip car, Drag4/Pro Drag4.
I just wish there was a way to do it with s300
Few questions though.
what is a CDI?
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
I'm stuck on going with a EMS , T1 trigger and, either d17, k20, j series or, CBR.
I wont need a CDI, Twin Fire, or M&W Pro14 for a street/strip car, Drag4/Pro Drag4.
I just wish there was a way to do it with s300
Few questions though.
what is a CDI?
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
a1320addict makes a nice little k-coil subharness as well to make it even easier (power, ground and the 4 triggers to your EMS)
^ That why I started this tread.
I'm stuck on going with a EMS , T1 trigger and, either d17, k20, j series or, CBR.
I wont need a CDI, Twin Fire, or M&W Pro14 for a street/strip car, Drag4/Pro Drag4.
I just wish there was a way to do it with s300
Few questions though.
what is a CDI?
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
I'm stuck on going with a EMS , T1 trigger and, either d17, k20, j series or, CBR.
I wont need a CDI, Twin Fire, or M&W Pro14 for a street/strip car, Drag4/Pro Drag4.
I just wish there was a way to do it with s300
Few questions though.
what is a CDI?
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
Few questions though.
what is a CDI?
Capacative Discharge Ignition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacit...harge_ignition
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
Keep It Simple Stupid
whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
It really depends on what your specific needs/setup are are. If you're on a dumb coil (2-wire), you'll need either a CDI or an igniter. Usually people jump to a CDI for the power output. Haltech makes a really nice 4-channel igniter that can output 15A per channel, which is more than what most available coils will draw. Honestly, if you go with a CDI it should be an M&W and nothing else. The K-Series coil is a smart coil, which needs neither and can be driven by your EMS ignition output directly.
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
You can using a T1 Trigger.
what is a CDI?
Capacative Discharge Ignition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacit...harge_ignition
Whats the K.I.S.S concept?
Keep It Simple Stupid

whats the benefit of going with or with out an ignition box with COP in stead of going to the ECU and no Ignition box?
It really depends on what your specific needs/setup are are. If you're on a dumb coil (2-wire), you'll need either a CDI or an igniter. Usually people jump to a CDI for the power output. Haltech makes a really nice 4-channel igniter that can output 15A per channel, which is more than what most available coils will draw. Honestly, if you go with a CDI it should be an M&W and nothing else. The K-Series coil is a smart coil, which needs neither and can be driven by your EMS ignition output directly.
I want to Completely remove the factory distributor, then replace it with a cam seal.
You can using a T1 Trigger.


