Nope. T1 trigger setup is all you need as far as a pickup. But I have seen some people run the obd2 crank sensor with the t1 trigger. What benifit you get I dont know.

 

Thanks A1320addict.

So this is what I'm gathering.
a smart coil uses 3 wires:
-ground
-voltage
-Signal

now what is the benifit to smart coil over a dumb with our cars?

 

smart = no CDI box and less parts to fail. the AEM EPM works great,and you can usialy find one cheaper than the t1 trigger. both do the same job tho.

 

Reseached alot before.

Went with T1 PD4 ultimate kit.

Mw pd4
Cbr coils
T1 cam trig
T1 harness
T1 billet cover
On aem s2

 

ive just switched to a EPM since i have a 30-1000 AEM EMS, the oldest one made. Its the best thing ive ever done. Car doesnt break up anymore up high at random. Install was a breeze, the wiring is cake. And even with mine setup as waste spark since the older ems only has 3 coil drivers i see no problems with it. Everything works as it should

 

Correct, on a K-Series coil you have 12V, GRD, Signal. Some other mfg's coils can even be 4-wire, which typically ties a logic ground into things.


They both do the same job of supplying cam/crank, but the T1 trigger actually works, reliably.

 

You guys have been so helpful, more threads shoukd be like this; helpful and mature.

I have one more question. why cant we get a way using the OEM crank trigger, or add a crank trigger. I think that be safer than run of the cams, seeing as how timing can jump/slip.
2nd thought, and I maybe on to something here. From what I understand the the d17 uses a cam trigger, can we adapt that wo work on our b series?

What about this? other than trigger beinjg a part of a Unorthadox pully it looks easy.
http://www.electromotive-inc.com/pro.../220-72410.php

 

You can run a crank wheel sure, but to modify a b-series to run it would take a bit of work...

The reason the T1 sensor and the EPM are the only reasonable options for a B-Series are because they work, they are relatively cheap, easy to install, etc

My experience with the EPM is that the signal can be somewhat dirty/noisey sometimes...its hit or miss, but when your RPM fluctuates around a lot because of internal issues and you are making a 1000+ hp, things dont go so well for so long if you get my drift. My guess is that the process to machine the cam gears Tony makes, has a much tighter tolerance level...but thats not my area of expertise, I just go with what my experience shows me sometimes.

 

Well anyone have a bracket, T1 sensor and, T1 cam gears for sale?

 

We have them in-stock

 

I just recently converted to the COP set up using K coils, STRD harness for the AEM EPM, AEM 6060 EMS, and AEM EPM. I couldnt be more happier with the setup, it was really easy to install, however the hardest part for me was going into the EMS to switch the jumper settings i was shxxing bricks while i was doing it lol. But next timei do another one, i will know how much force you actually need to get the boards apart. Joel at Speed Theory was real patient with helping me out with this set up and provided me a ems pin out diagram for an easy install. They do great work over at STRD and they have great customer service. From reading this thread i probably should have gone with the T-1 Cam trigger kit instead of the EPM. But so far no noise issues with the EPM.

 

Yea i have made up my mind.

t1 trigger
k series coils or AEM smart coils (if they will work?)
EMS

 

They work, just a little more wiring and finding a way to mount them and then custom making yourself some plug wires from each coil to the plug. I assume thats why you dont see these coils as a more popular option.

 

The K coils are a good choice , all you need is the an adapter plate unless you want to do some custom work for the AEM smart coils, i never knew they had those i will have to check them out. I got my adapter plate from evans tuning its a good quality plate compared to RyWires plate FYI. If you order the k coils order them on majestichonda parts online instead of the dealer, you will get them cheaper.

 

Wow! Thanks you guys! You where both very descriptive and insightful. Not only did I have my questions anwsered but I also learned how to save money!!
This is a perfect example of how a thread on a auto enthusiast forum should be.
Thanks to everyone for your tips and pointers. I really don't have any more questions. That's fantastic.
Thanks again, it was a nice change to not have to feel like you have to defend yourself like most threads with questions. There is always that one ***** that just likes to ruin it for everyone. His mouth must be full. ;-)

-Brandon.

 

NP man good luck

 

Digging this back up from the dead. Anyone running the t1 trigger, aem, and k coils have any issues with the stock tach in the cluster reading half? Or is everyone running an aftermarket tach?

 

What is everyone running for tach tooth and tacho output??

 

Im going to call t1 tomorrow to try and figure it out.

 

change the tacho teeth box if your tach is reading low it should be changed to 2 or 1 if its reading high it should be changed to a higher number

Credit to tony at t1 and aem tech support

thanks
chris

 

I'll try this next, before changing anything else. Mine are currently set at 3 for the tooth and 2 for the output. I'll definately try 2 and 1 for the tooth.

 

Hi All,

We are having some problems with the car firing on cylinder #3 since we put the COP setup on this year. Here is the history.

Freshly rebuilt engine at the end of last year. Went from a sleeved 81.5 to an 84mm bore. Ran at one event at the end of last season. Had some boost creep on the dyno and at the track and didn't fair out well. Car came back from that event and was put away for winter.

Engine was only taken apart as far as the cams being removed in order to double check the torque on the head. The engine was still clean and fine at the end of the year, so didn't go any deeper. It ran fine when it was parked.

New parts over winter included: New Sheepey Inc Top Mount T4 with 66mm Gate Flange, New 66mm Precision Gate, Used K Series Coils, Rywire COP Harness, New Aem Series 2 ECU 30-6040, Used T1 Cam Trigger and Matching Golden Eagle Cam Gears, Used 72 mm Blox Throttle Body, Used Dual Bosch 044 Pumps, -10 Feed Line, -8 Return, New Weldon Fuel Filter, Sumped OEM Fuel Tank, New Bosch 2000 cc Injectors.

Installed everything over the past two weeks. Pinned the Rywire harness into the ECU. Moved the jumpers in the ECU for the COP setup. Car will start up and idle. The car spits and sputters when it gets up to around 3500 rpms. Changed firing order in AEM, did not help. Changed coils from #3 to #4 and than it had no fire on #4. Made us believe a bad coil on #3. Got another coil, and tried it. No help. Unclipped #3 injector, and traded with #4. This didn't help.

We are thinking #3 Injector could be bad. Not sure what else it could be.

Does anybody have any hints, help, tricks, advice etc to help us out? Trying to get to an event for Saturday morning and with the USA holiday we have no luck calling the shops or AEM who we usually deal with (we are from Canada eh lol).

If you have any advice, please fire away. Anything is appreciated!

Thanks.