I'm stumped once again. I've got a ek civic ex automatic and it's giving me some trouble. Here is the run down...

obd1 d16z6 swap in using the obd2 EX transmission. Using original harness from the car, converted to obd1. Using a jumper harness to an automatic p28 ecu (also tried a manual ecu while I wait on the other auto ecu that is coming in the mail).

As of right now the car turns over but has no spark, no fuel. The biggest thing I'm noticing right off the bat is the CEL doesn't come on at all when I turn the key. That usually means the ecu is bad or there is an issues with the computer somewhere. That's why I have another ecu on the way. I'm thinking that is the most likely thing. I did get this ecu from a wrecked car at a junk yard...

Besides the no CEL when I turn the key I get no spark or fuel. I've swapped in a working relay from another car and nothing. I can jump terminal 5 and 7 and the fuel pump primes so it's working fine too. The dizzy was working when I took it out of the si hatch. But like I said, nothing now.

The valve cover, transmission and thermostat grounds have all been checked and cleaned. I broke my volt meter so I can't tell you any thing beyond yes or no when it comes to power. The ecu, main relay and fuel pump all have power. All my fuses and relays are good. The only thing I haven't actually ruled out or replaced is the ignition which I find unlikely to be the problem. Also, that's wouldn't cause these specific symptoms.

Well that's pretty much all I got. If you have any ideas please let me know. I'm going with the bad ecu idea for now. But if it isn't that I'd like to have something else to try. I'll also be getting a new multi meter so I'll be able to check things properly tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

are all your plugs plugged in inside the car where your engine harness mee


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*meets the car harness I believe its a green plug that plugs into car from engine harness


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double check the tranny ground, make sure main relay is good, check your 15amp ecu fuse under hood and backup fuse. also check your ignition fuses under dash


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x2 on grounds.

 

I got rid of all the original grounds and used new wire and fittings. So they are all good to go. I took the main relay from my daily and put it in and nothing still. But I did notice it needed re-soldered so I went ahead and did that and threw it back in my daily.

All fuses are good. I've got good power on both sides of every single fuse in the engine bay and under the dash.

The one thing I haven't checked because I didn't think it would be causing the issues is the ignition relay. From what I remember if the ignition relay was bad there would be no spark. But it wouldn't explain the fuel. Either way I'll make sure to go back and test all the relays again.

After doing some reading I saw a few things about bad fuse boxes. I'm going to try swapping one out when I get a chance. But I think for now I'll just try to finish up the other car while I wait on the ecu. Then if it still doesn't work I'll know it's going to have to be something else.

Thanks.

 

I have 1 large gray, 1 large blue and one small gray connector plugged in. The middle sized one is not plugged in and that's how it normally is on the obd2a cars. But I am using a cheap ebay obd2 to obd1 jumper harness and that might be causing some issues but it seems to be working fine on the other cars.

The only other thing I just thought of is, does anyone know if there is any difference between a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness for manuals and automatics? I've never thought there was but I don't think I've ever had to convert an auto either lol.

Thanks.

 

Ok in total their is 4 plugs coming from the engine harness underneath the dash in da passenger side and its Plugs: A, C, D and the one for the dash harness make sure all of them are pluged in if the da dash harness plug is not plugged in it will not show the CEL light and will not activate the relay to power up fuel pump and distributor another thing u said u had a obd1 engine in their which means if u have a obd1 injectors u have to have a resistor box if not u fry da ecu which proably would be wat happen to ur ecu

 

I'm using plug a,c and d in the jumper harness. The green harness plug is also plugged in. Still waiting on that ecu.

 

Do u have saturated injectors or peakandhold injectors?

 

As far as I know they are saturated. I haven't tested them yet but I'm mostly sure the 92-95's came with saturated 220cc injectors or something close to that size.

I'll test it tomorrow just to make sure. Thanks.

 

Yep, they are saturated. No need for a resistor box. Ecu came in tonight at my house for some reason... I'll throw it in tomorrow and see what she does.

 

I don't think you have all the equipment you need for the conversion. You can't just use the regular obd2 to obd1 jumper harness unless you are going with a manual trans.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-management-tuning-124/obd2-obd1-w-auto-2432540/

 

That's what I've been thinking from the beginning. Especially since I've never done a manual to auto swap. It just seems wrong lol. But like you said it seems like I don't have all the equipment. I feel like I either have to rewire something or I need another kind of jumper harness because as of right now the car acts exactly the same whether the ecu is plugged in or not. I'll hopefully know some more tomorrow. The obd2a jumper harnesses are coming in and I'll be able to rule everything out.

Thanks.

 

I'm having a similar problem with mine. I put, what I assume, a obd1 engine and trans from a '95 Accord, into a '96 OBD2a auto accord. My problem is, the ecu is looking for the crank sensor, and has it in limp mode. If I get an OBD1 ecu, what do I do about the trans? The OBD2a ecu had the trans built in as well. Not trying to thread jack or anything, just looking for some more help. Maybe it will also help you, if you hadn't thought of that yet.

 

You have to run a obd1 trans and ecu. That way you don't have all the issues.

I have mine running right now on an OBD2B trans and ecu. It doesn't want to shift and it rides like a pos. I'm probably going to end up swapping in a obd1 d series trans and just use an obd1 ecu. That or just do an auto to manual swap. The more I think about it I might as well just do that.

 

good info^^^^^

 

So, I would need he obd2a to obd1 jumper harness, correct? And it would plug into the existing harness,and the obd1 ecu, and have another socket for the tcm?

 

Best thing I've figured out is to just match the ecu with the trans. If you do that it will always work. The harness will always have to match the car though. If you ever plan on using an obd1 ecu you'll need a matching 2a/b jumper harness. I've been messing around with my trans today and all I have is what seems like 4th/od gear and possibly second. That is using a matching ecu as the transmission. But I'm 90% sure the trans itself is bad. Now I'm really considering just doing a 5spd conversion. Besides the fact that I prefer a 5spd, it'll also sell for more and it will run better because I'll be able to use the factory p28 instead of using the obd2b ex ecu to run an obd1 z6 motor.

 

I've decided to just give up with the auto. I'm going to take the z6 out and mate it back up with the z6 5 spd transmission. I'm going to throw that in a 99 civic dx and paint the thing. I'll then throw the other motor and trans into the automatic car after converting to 5spd.

I'm going try to make this one not only work but also look oem. Shouldn't be too hard.

 

I was just reading some stuff about the PATS. Does this sound at all like a pats or key issue? It seems to be doing exactly what a malfunctioning pats would be doing. I'll take it to ford tomorrow and see if they can tell me anything.