Skunk2 Intake Manifold on Y8 head
I recently bought an obd1 skunk2 intake manifold. Guy converted it to obd2 by blocking all un used sensor ports. So i put it on and its been acting funny. And i get a fuel trim code. It has lots of hesitation. Ive asked everyone around me and they keep telling me i should change my intake manifold back to stock. Im hoping someone on here can help me in fixing this problem I'm having so i can keep this manifold! Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! I have a z6 bottom with a y8 head. Also everything thing is stock except the intake manifold.
The hesitation starts around 2500 rpms and it feels like fuel has been cut off and then i press the gas and it cones back to life. And i brought it to a dyno and the dyno guy told me its not running right at all but he couldn't help me at that moment due to it being dyno day and lost of people waiting behind me.
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Everything is not stock. And every time someone tries to smack an S2 IM onto a stock or near stock setup it always runs like this. Either put the stock IM back on or get that P28 chipped and slap a basemap on it for your mods.
And I doubt seriously that it increased anything. You're imagining it unless you have a dyno chart to prove it. Plus, with it running like crap there is NO WAY that you could know that.
And I doubt seriously that it increased anything. You're imagining it unless you have a dyno chart to prove it. Plus, with it running like crap there is NO WAY that you could know that.
Go ahead. It won't fix it.
The issue is that you've altered the air/fuel mixture past the point the stock ECU can compensate. You cannot just slap on power producing parts and expect everything to just work.
The issue is that you've altered the air/fuel mixture past the point the stock ECU can compensate. You cannot just slap on power producing parts and expect everything to just work.
i have the skunk2 IM on the y8 head. it works. what ever people are telling you is just speculations. they are not there to diagnois it in person. there are other things that can cause the problem your experiencing. such as air leaks, fuel setting not proper (tuning helps here not really the fpr), timing, etc.
have someone actually check it out and test the car for the issue. we can only give you ideas what it might be.
have someone actually check it out and test the car for the issue. we can only give you ideas what it might be.
yeah alot of misinformation was listed here in the original post, don't say something is stock when it's not, that can send people for a loop, as for this swap, I myself have seen this intake swap done many times, it's usually ok, is this thing idling normally still? no crazy up and down? did you switch TPS sensors?
Yea it idles pretty normal when i first start it, the first minute or so it will drop and idle real ruff for a few seconds then jumps back up to about 800 rmp and idles smooth. And yup brand new tps calibrated.
can changing the IM really change the car that much? I thought the ECU can adjust the difference between the stock and aftermarket IM?
The size of the plenum will actually reduce velocity of the air at certain key RPMs. I had one on my car before and it was fun from 6500-8250 but how many people with stock engines can even rev that high (or even WILL rev that high)? I didn't realize how much SLOWER my car was in the low to mid range of the power band until I swapped back my stock manifold. Those manifolds are better suited to engines with some real work put into them. You can run it on a stock engine if you choose but don't be upset when you start realizing the gains were very minimal at best.
ecu can only do so much and its usually very little. you will see some good gains if you tune for it. use something like hondata s300.
when you modify something that will change the V.E. in any way you need to get the car tune to actually make any use out of the change.
when you modify something that will change the V.E. in any way you need to get the car tune to actually make any use out of the change.
The size of the plenum will actually reduce velocity of the air at certain key RPMs. I had one on my car before and it was fun from 6500-8250 but how many people with stock engines can even rev that high (or even WILL rev that high)? I didn't realize how much SLOWER my car was in the low to mid range of the power band until I swapped back my stock manifold. Those manifolds are better suited to engines with some real work put into them. You can run it on a stock engine if you choose but don't be upset when you start realizing the gains were very minimal at best.
Once i tune it will all these problems be virtually gone? Also @24tien when you swapped back to the stock IM did you have any gains, hp wise or did it just run better?
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