Sup H-T I need tips and pointers if any. What I have is a 91 integra rs 5spd shell. I also have a gs auto completely in running condition. I have no sympathy or patience for this auto trans to do any more repairs, so I bought a 5spd shell. I will also be picking up a b18b block 2mro. My plan is to swap the guts from the b18a1 into the the b18b with new gaskets, piston rings, and bearings. I have b16a2 pistons that I want to put in with stock ls crank and rods. If I have a machine shop inspect the block and crank, would this be possible for me to assemble myself. The b18a1 runs just fine as far as mechanics go. I also do have basic knowledge of auto and engine repairs and if all fails, I have google and H-T of course. Currently the head will remain stock and will also be inspected. How ever I do have some obd1 pieces and would want to do almost a full obd1 conversion. I have obd1 harness, injectors, dizzy, ecu, and ecu pigtail. The next item on my list is a 94-95 ls intake manifold, looks better in my opinion.
Look out for a full hydro trans conversion in the near future. But as of now this is enough for now. Thanks in advance and any tips or pointers are definetly appreciated!

 

Unless you have another car to drive my advice would be to let a professional handle the rebuild, it doesn't sound like you know enough to dive into an engine. (no offense meant!)
If you insist on doing this job yourself make sure you get the proper bearings for the engine and some plastigauge to check tolerance. I would stick with the B18A1 block to ovoid confusion. Why do you want to change the block?
To do an OBD1 conversion you don't need to change the harness. Get an OBD1 ECU and a jumper harness, as well as a 2 wire 02 sensor and jumper harness for the distributor. No need to change injectors either. RyWire is a popular company that sells full conversion kits.
Good luck!

 

Geez, I asked for tips and pointers. Thanks for the tip and you've pointed me right back into the direction i came from.
Let's see, I'm already in my own paradise. So why would I want to go anywhere else? If I had to go anywhere else, don't you think that, at least that's what my wifey is good for? Yes I intend on doing this myself. I just turned the legal age and have rich parents and I'm a cocky ****! Yeah right!
Yes, to do an obd1 conversion you can buy what everyone else is buying! Blah blah blah...When they say jump, you jump! What ever happened to the days when you do what you want to do so you can LEARN if it was right or wrong? Oh that's right, we're not in the 1900's no more. Maybe I will have to learn the hard way again and again.
BTW, do you know my kids? Maybe my siblings? I mean that first TIP you gave me sounds like it would have came from my dad or something. OMG LOL thank u come again

 

Update! Not going for b16 piston no more. But looking for a higher dome piston that would fit right in.

 

calm down your highness. maybe you skipped over the part where he actually answered some of your questions?

 

True, true. Logically he was correct on some points. However, these were my preferences and what was available to me. Nothing wrong with having a block to build while still using current setup. I guess I should build block with other parts than swap the guts. That way there isn't a time crunch.

 

What's wrong with the a1 block that you want to swap into the b1?
If there's nothing wrong with your current or new block, all you'll need is a hone.

Aside from learning, why are you rebuilding your motor? Poor compression, smokes?

 

This is a very very sad car. It's making me sad and stress. I payed 500 for it based on what I thought was a clean body. The engine and auto trans, everything was still intact. The kid who owned it obviously has not owned a Honda before. He's rigged up so much **** on the car. I've had to dig deep in my tool box and my dads ancient tool box from china to just work on it. What ever he touched is the total opposite of what it should've been. I mean there's a 11mm or 13mm or something foreign size bolt on the valve cover, wtf!!! So he tells me that he thought he spun a bearing and he hasn't drove it since then. I'm like sure for 500 bux I think I can deal with that. So I tow it home and put a battery in it. Oh yeah she's knocking, however I'm not convinced the knocking is block related. So I go ahead and purchase rod bearings, oil pan gasket, and oil. Yeah no engine lift at the moment so I gotta go from bottom up. So I drain oil, remove oil pan, etc, etc. The crank and rods are visible at this point. Before I attempt to go for rod bearings I decide to spin the motor a couple times by rotating the crank of course. Hmm, strange not sure if a spun bearing would be visible in anyway but I hear a noise and it's definetly not coming from the lower part of engine. So I take of the valve cover and there you go. The ex. Cam bolt is hanging on by just a thread or so. Lol I tighten the bolt back on and something tells me to set engine to TDC, I should've did it earlier but I'm just doing some diagnostics now. Well what do ya know, we are way out of timing, maybe half a rotation. Long story short, I get it timed and put back, engine runs smooth, so I take it for a spin, only if the damn trans would want to take me. Trans flush didn't help so I replace with a good trans. Hey it works, but now it's leaking all the fluids except the brake fluid. He was proud of his brakes. Lol, wow soo much fun and it's only the beginning!

 

If you can pull the trans which it sounds like you have, I would change the rear main seal.
Probably do a new headgasket and any rubber ones that seem to be suspect.

Do a compression test before you think about completely rebuilding it.
Would def save you time not having to completely go through it if you have a semi healthy engine.