i have a 94 gsr with a 2000 gsr motor that i have , was currently running. but like a week ago just shut off on me when i was driving it. now it turns on, but shuts off like 10mins later. it cracks up, all the gauges light up but then i have to give it a minute from once it turn off so it will turn on.

 

I assume when you say "turn on turn off" you mean engine runs, [turns on] engine stalls, [turns off].

If so, the first thing I would do is check for spark, when engine stalls, you can pick up an HEI spark tester for under $10...

At just about any car parts store.

Ign. coil and ICM are both susceptible to heat failure, work fine when cold but fail once warmed up.

If spark is not the problem then it may be fuel, the PGM-FI Main Relay is also susceptible to heat failure and a common problem on older Honda/Acura...
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html

A common failed PGM-FI Main Relay symptom is no fuel pump priming.

Easy test, once engine stalls, turn off the ign. then turn it back on to the run position, [not all the way to start] and listen for the fuel pump priming, running for a few sec., sequence is, ign. switch on, cluster lights up including CEL, fuel pump primes, fuel pump stops priming and CEL goes out, engine will start.

With that said, even if fuel pump primes and engine will not start it may still be a fuel problem, weak fuel pump, [low fuel pressure] a FPG is needed to check fuel pressure.

With that said, PGM-FI Main Relay and fuel pump working properly, it may still be fuel related, injectors not working, a noid light can be used to test for injector pulse, even a side marker bulb can be used, [194 or 158 wedge bulb] to check injector pulse. 94

 

I'll turn it on completely, then it just shuts off. The gauges just go down then its off, I've checked for spark nd its good. I've even put the keys in nd turned it half way just to see if my fuel pump was working nd yes u can hear it. My boy who's a mechanic thinks the car could have the wrong dizzy but then why would it have been ok to drive for a month. Then went out all of a sudden

 

my guess is the igniter inside the dizzy. just a guess

 

interesting

 

If it was the ICM, [igniter] there would be no spark.

You said, "The gauges just go down then its off" that would indicate you are loosing ign.

Also a problem on older Honda/Acura...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94

 

well he was saying it was from the wrong year or something like that, at times im able to get the car to stay on when i do im able to drive it but as soon as i turn it off its a wrap, it wont start again

 

I will tell you that I have had similar intermittant issues with honda ignition switches going bad. It will work fine one second and then randomly just shuts off. Sometimes it wouldnt start at all. So it could be in the ignition switch.

However if you dont feel any slop in the ignition switch, the more probable cause is the distributor. A lot of times heat is the cause as well. Main relays and distributors dont like massive amounts of heat.

But the thing to start out with is checking for all the normal stuff, fuel, spark, air.

 

OK, one more time...

So I understand, you have a 94 GS-R with a 2000 GS-R engine swap, "i have a 94 gsr with a 2000 gsr motor" and it was running, "was currently running" is that correct?

Assuming you mean the car was running well, I will also have to assume the swap was done properly, correct ECU/ECM and so on.

I have to assume a lot because you have not confirmed my first assumptions.

Diagnosing problems over the Internet is made more difficult when there is no "clarity", re your last post, "well he was saying it was from the wrong year" who was saying and what was from the wrong year?

Do I assume you mean, the ECU/ECM was from the wrong year, or do I go with ign. switch, [as I had just mentioned it] both are possibilities, possible assumptions I mean.

Also, just FYI...

It is an engine, electric cars have "motors".

A car, [engine] can/will keep running, an electric motor can "stay on"
By the way, how do you keep it running, "im able to get the car to stay on" [some more of that clarity]?

One more assumption, more like another possibility, the 2000 Integra GS-R comes stock with an immobilizer, [transponder key] the 94 did not.

The immobilizer "circuit" is in the ECU/ECM, the 2000 ECU/ECM I assume is being used for the 2000 GS-R engine, [see how having to assume can throw a wrench into your diagnoses].

There are a few things that can be done to use or to bypass the immobilizer circuit

The proper thing to do is the wire in the immobilizer wiring along with ign. switch assembly housing the immobilizer "receiver ant." a transponder key, [two would be better] "coded" to the immobilizer circuit in the ECU/ECM.

The easy way, install a bypass chip/card in place of the immobilizer circuit,
eliminating the immobilizer completely.

There are a few more things that can be done, but like most immobilizers they allow the engine to start, if the correct ign. key is used, but once the engine starts and runs the immobilizer circuit is "off", immobilizers either cut fuel, disable the starter or both, once the engine has started you could remove the transponder key, [power to ign. circuit must be maintained] and engine would keep running.

To the possible problem, however the immobilizer system was used or bypassed, it is failing intermittently, you can get it to start and once it starts it's OK untill you have to start it again, and it is getting harder and harder to get the engine started.

But then again, without more info all I can do is guess and assume. 94