Sorry this is probably going to be a little lengthy but I figured the more the better. Its a 96 accord with the 6 in it, auto trans. It overheated about 6 months ago (bad radiator cap) and shut off in the process. After we replaced the cap it seemed fine, then a few weeks after it went totally dead. Replaced the fuel pump & filter got it going again but a couple weeks later it started to stall after about 40 min of driving, only when stopping or near stop. Does not over heat. Since then, between mechanics and my own fustration it has gotten a new temp sensor (twice), temp fan switch (coolant side),thermostat, main relay, vehicle speed sensor, map sensor, cleaned throttle body, IACV, plugs and wires, brake booster vac lines and check valve (only vacuum leak I found) and I think thats it. It had a evap canister code at the begining (and way befor the over heat) but thats gone, no other codes. It does not matter if it gets the 40 min operating time in the driveway or the road, tried them both. It does take about 30 to 40 min before it gets hot enough to turn on the fans and the stalling, only when stopping, will happen soon after, the temp gauge stays at about 1/3 till then, then jumps to 2/3 and the fans start. Hope that helps. Any help would really be appreciated. Just need a fresh set of ideas. Thanks.

 

Have you checked for coolant in your oil?, or vice versa

 

Yea I checked, between thermostat and sensors had the coolant changed a couple times, nothing. Oil looks fine too. Plugs look ok to, with a decent burn color. Could it maybe have something to do with the turning on of the fans? I dont know, just throwin darts.

 

No love?
I know I let this sit but my problem is still here. I have gone on an entire hose replacement endevor, as I can, caused my reverse idle to increase?!. Also replaced the ignitor and oil temp switch, replaced thermostat, (again) I do have a new symptom. I noticed the fans do not come on until well on its way to over heating, about 2/3 -3/4 up the gauge. And when they do they only come on breifly then shut off for a couple minutes then back on and repeat. Im honestly thinking about just hardwiring a switch to the fans and turn em on when in traffic (grrrr, but I really need the car). Also why would it stall when it gets hot? Shouldnt it just get hotter and hotter until failure. Please help.

 

Have you bled the coolant system? Waterpump?

 

You need to do a compression test. Also, you should check your plugs. Do they look like coolant ?

 

when It DIes You Need To Do A Spark And Fuel Test To Figure Out What The Engine Is missing

 

Thanks for the suggestions I,ll answer em in order (or close to it). I bled the system but I have to admit maybe I didnt do it by the book. Shop did the t stat second time. Im really hoping thats it, I will do it over again tomorrow and let you know, its easy enough. Water flows with no apparent seepage.
Plugs looked clean (well good burn color). No apparent oil/water water/ oil mix in either direction. Though I have heard I can get the water anaylized for hydrocarbons to be 100% sure. Not there yet.
Pressure test? I had it in a shop. They tested the cylinders and said they are fine. I have been researching and found mention of pumping air into the radiator and looking for a pressure drop as its a sealed system. Could indicate head gasket. Cant find specifics though, safe psi, equipment to put on cap, etc...
Mechanic was able to reproduce problem. But, as with me the car would start right back up in just one or two turns of the key. He was fustrated, and honestly for the hundreds I pay to have it diagnosed I can replace a lot of parts( he did not charge me hundreds, but did have to charge something).
Shouldnt the fans stay on until the temp comes down?
Should the car stall when hot or just keep getting hotter?

 

When it stops running, what lights (if any) are "on" in the dash?

 

This will have to broken up I keep losing connection. All dash lights come on. Good question though, just not sure what it means, the key is in the on position after all.

 

Did the bleed, car runs even cooler. Fans kick on a little over half. Only for about a 30 sec pulse One sounds really rough (primary). Still stalls. Didnt even make it off my block this time. Could it be a short in the fan? Coupled with braking, vehicle speed sensor and all the other electric stuff that is going on at slow down taking enough power to kill the engine?

 

I know its over simplifying things but you get the point. And please for those of you who want to help, read my earlier posts, alot of the first options have been tried. If you got a better way, great, but my problem is obviously not your run of the mill bugaboo. I do appreciate the consideration though.

 

Potentially a dumb question - have you actually measured the temperatures or are you solely going off the gauge? Reason I ask is there has been a few users on here with busted gauges. Do you have like an infrared thermometer to take measurements?

What type/brand of coolant are you using?

When was the waterpump last replaced? What brand?


The fans should stay on until the vehicle has cooled off - and should kick in far before 2/3rd's of the way up. Are you sure you aren't accidentally getting 4cyl parts instead of v6?

 

96, OBD2 = the ability to hook up a scanner and see what all the sensors are doing at the time of the stall. You need someone to hook up an OBD tool and stream the live data to see what it is that is causing the ECU to cut fuel/spark. I'm thinking that the ECT sensor output might be faulty or your gauge is toast.

 

Gah, good call Ghost! Didn't think about hooking up the OBDII scanner

 

Did shoot some temps around the t-stat to check operation, did not do it for fan kick on. Will do this weekend. Doubt its the gauge though, it responds to different things I do and changed the sensor twice. Im as sure of the parts as the parts guy can be, I honestly wouldnt know if he was giving me wrong stuff. Water pump done by a shop a little over 2 years ago with the timing belt, dont know which brand. Water does seem to flow well in the top of radiator, still if it was an overheating issue with the water pump shouldnt the fans go like crazy, unless I am having two failures. Still think I should focus on fans first. Dont own a scanner. I see what I can do about borrowing/buying/renting one.

 

Check the wire for the temp switch going to the dash (Its 1 wire only and sits next to the thermostat housing) and make sure its not exposed / touching anything else.
It seems like your just not getting the right readings but your car functions perfectly fine. I wouldn't pull my hair out for something like that.

 

What did you do to fix the EVAP code? Or did it just 'go away'?
When the engine stalls, can you immediately restart? If not remove the gas cap and see if there is pressure built up in the system. If so and the engine restarts easily after reinstalling the gas cap, it may just be that your EVAP issue was not fully resolved.

 

I have a feeling this might actually be your oxygen sensor. I had the same issue before.

Try this when you get a chance. It's important to do this when the car is completely warmed up or when the car is starting to stall. Start the car up and immediately try this in a closed spot with no traffic around you. Be safe.

Road test the vehicle with transmission in 2nd gear. Accelerate at wide open throttle for at least 5 seconds and then decelerate for at least 5 seconds with the throttle completely closed(foot off the gas). It's important to decelerate immediately after accelerating. Then check for a code by jumping the service connector. See if you get a Code 1.

If you don't get a code, try it a couple more times if you can. Again, be safe.

This is what I did, and it threw a code 1 for me when I couldn't figure out why my car was dying for no apparently reason.

 

Well, out of fustration I took off the intake (planning on going further) and found engine oil puddled in the intake. A fair amount of it too. So I thought I found my issue, oil smoking at tempature and choking the car out, "victory!". Not to be. It does the same thing, also spit out a codes p0108 (map sensor) p1790 not sure what that one is, transimisson issue or TPS. Had to walk away before the car and the baseball bat became friends. Sword, please read all the posts, car stalls out, good suggestion on the wire though. Engine is at about 220 when fans come on, it seems to stay there though I bet if allowed it would keep getting hotter, as I said it does keep getting hotter and the fans only come on in pulses. Ran the obd I/M monitor on it it says the O2 sensor was fine, for what its worth. Changed the evap canistor to fix the p0440 code. Well I am hoping all the throttle body cleaner I used caused the other codes, gonna let it sit for a couple then clear the codes and run it again, see what happens. The oil came in from one of the three hoses connected right at the top of the intake right behind the brake booster vacuum line. Dont know which one though, any one know how oil would come through one of those?

 

Can you pinpoint which hose?

 

All I can say it was from one of the three labeled "18" on the first diagram. Which one I dont know. Oil was sprayed around the inlet colar along the ceiling of the manifold where it must have dripped down to the bottom. In some of my earlier posts I said I was replacing hoses, well these were some. So I cant even look to see which one had oil in it. Maybe a q tip would show oil? Guess I'll try on the metal hose transition.

 

Holmnes, ummm I guess I'm confused on the O2 sensor test. My accord gets up and goes and I would really be afraid Of stomping on the throttle for a full 5 secs in 2nd. I also dont know how to jump the service connector. Then slap the obd on it? How do you read the code? Im up for almost anything that might work, if you could clarify.

 

First, you really should do a compression test. Buy a kit for $20 and remove the ecu fuse in the engine fuse box and disconnect the main relay to disable fuel. There are lots of videos on youtube that give good instructions. You can also see vids on checking for engine codes on your car.

 

Well still the same though I guess I narrowed the symptoms down some. The car will run great for as long as I want as long as I stay out of heavy stop and go traffic. Ran all saturday, still stalls when it gets hot while in heavy traffic. All codes are still gone, thought it might just be the chemicals. Dont think these symptoms speak to a compression issue as well as had a garage check for one. How bout any answers on why the fans may only pulse? Keep in mind of the sensors replaced and lets just say they're fine for arguments sake, what would be next? Could the relays or the ECU be responsible? Short in the fan motor? I have thought that maybe the fans hit the thermal switch and cool it off before it actually cools the block, turning the fans off? Whaddya think? Anyone ever hear of maybe an ingnition switch causing something like this? If anyone has ideas on how maybe to track this down, id appreciate it, thanks. Oh this car also passed emissions recently (car had the problem then) and the gas cap tested fine.