HELP!! Fixed broken timing belt - now it doesn't run!!
Help!!
I don't understand WTF is going on. 1990 Honda Accord F22 5 speed 242,000 miles. Bought this as a cheap commuter, shortly thereafter timing belt broke.
Replaced timing belt, and all other relevant parts that typically get changed with this job, waterpump, other belts, etc.
Here's the thing, put it all back together, and I can''t make this thing run. Went back to basics, suck, squeeze, bang, blow.
Checked compression, 140 lowest, 160 highest, not even and new, but OK. All timing marks are lined up, triple checked. Took off valve cover and verified #1 and all sequences are correct. Checked timing with timing light while cranking, light indicates timing good. New spark plugs, checked spark, all four good spark. Checked fuel pressure, 40psi at rail. Checked fuel injectors with light, all work. Removed distributor, cleaned, replaced rotor, cap good.
Everything looks good, all other electrical systems work, checked all fuses everything is good...............but I cannot make it run!!!
HELP!!
I don't understand WTF is going on. 1990 Honda Accord F22 5 speed 242,000 miles. Bought this as a cheap commuter, shortly thereafter timing belt broke.
Replaced timing belt, and all other relevant parts that typically get changed with this job, waterpump, other belts, etc.
Here's the thing, put it all back together, and I can''t make this thing run. Went back to basics, suck, squeeze, bang, blow.
Checked compression, 140 lowest, 160 highest, not even and new, but OK. All timing marks are lined up, triple checked. Took off valve cover and verified #1 and all sequences are correct. Checked timing with timing light while cranking, light indicates timing good. New spark plugs, checked spark, all four good spark. Checked fuel pressure, 40psi at rail. Checked fuel injectors with light, all work. Removed distributor, cleaned, replaced rotor, cap good.
Everything looks good, all other electrical systems work, checked all fuses everything is good...............but I cannot make it run!!!
HELP!!
Checked the firing order, it is correct, I did not try starting fluid, but I did try "pull starting" it, 2nd gear at 1200 rpm, still no go....
While cranking the engine over, it acts like it wants to run, firing every once and a while. Sometimes, while cranking, it kicks back. I do not have any starting fluid, but will try some tomorrow. Is there some electrical reset or something I am unaware of? I have checked the wiring and the grounds. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the ECU was not working correctly, I would have no spark, or injector impulse, which I have. AARRGGHH
Check to make sure that your rotor is indeed pointing to the number one spark plug wire when the number one cylinder is at TDC.
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is it sputtering after a few rotations while cranking?
have you done the valve lash?
you said you changed everything typical of a broken timing belt.did this include the valves?leakdown test to make sure none of them got bent when it broke..
140 as the lowest compression # is a bit low..
have you done the valve lash?
you said you changed everything typical of a broken timing belt.did this include the valves?leakdown test to make sure none of them got bent when it broke..
140 as the lowest compression # is a bit low..
Sounds like your timing is off, put the engine on TDC cylinder 1 and check that your rotor points to the wire on the dist cap that goes to the number one cylinder.
So here it stands, I did verify that the rotor is pointed at the # 1 position / plug, verified plug wires, verified correct cam timing by marks on cog-belt pully, the marks even with the head, and removed the valve cover to verify that the valves are all closed when at TDC.
As mentioned earlier, when cranking, it makes an attempt to run, but never actually starts.
I have not done a leakdown test, but will, and will again verify all timing marks.
As mentioned earlier, when cranking, it makes an attempt to run, but never actually starts.
I have not done a leakdown test, but will, and will again verify all timing marks.
So here it stands, I did verify that the rotor is pointed at the # 1 position / plug, verified plug wires, verified correct cam timing by marks on cog-belt pully, the marks even with the head, and removed the valve cover to verify that the valves are all closed when at TDC.
As mentioned earlier, when cranking, it makes an attempt to run, but never actually starts.
I have not done a leakdown test, but will, and will again verify all timing marks.
As mentioned earlier, when cranking, it makes an attempt to run, but never actually starts.
I have not done a leakdown test, but will, and will again verify all timing marks.
If your belt broke, there is a very good chance your valves are bent. I believe the f22 is an interference engine - meaning, the valves protrude into the cylinder bore. Your timing belt (when it's in time) keeps your valves from coming into contact with the piston. If a valve hits a piston, it'll bend. If a valve bends, you'll lose compression in that cylinder.
I've heard a few stories about belts breaking and the person did NOT try to turn the engine, and the valves did not bend. You have to do a leakdown, my guess is you got some bent valves, and it's time for a head job.
Let us know what it turns out to be - fingers crossed for you
I've heard a few stories about belts breaking and the person did NOT try to turn the engine, and the valves did not bend. You have to do a leakdown, my guess is you got some bent valves, and it's time for a head job.
Let us know what it turns out to be - fingers crossed for you
Sorry it's been so long in getting back to this, I work shiftwork.
First, thank you all for your advice.
That said, we finally got it. Here you go:
Went back to the basics, Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. Since we knew that we had compression in all 4 cylinders, spark and fuel, we kept looking at the timing. Pulled out #1 plug, VERIFIED TDC, realized that the timing mark on the flywheel was about 6o degrees off, but there was a faint hand scratched mark where it should have been. (AHA moment) Re-set the timing belt and viola started right up first try. DUH.
Lessons learned: Don't trust the marks. Some douche before you may have mis-assembled something. Always verify all settings, such as TDC.
On a positive note, no crashed valves, it runs as good as could be expected for a beater with 242,000+ miles on it.
First, thank you all for your advice.
That said, we finally got it. Here you go:
Went back to the basics, Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. Since we knew that we had compression in all 4 cylinders, spark and fuel, we kept looking at the timing. Pulled out #1 plug, VERIFIED TDC, realized that the timing mark on the flywheel was about 6o degrees off, but there was a faint hand scratched mark where it should have been. (AHA moment) Re-set the timing belt and viola started right up first try. DUH.
Lessons learned: Don't trust the marks. Some douche before you may have mis-assembled something. Always verify all settings, such as TDC.
On a positive note, no crashed valves, it runs as good as could be expected for a beater with 242,000+ miles on it.
realized that the timing mark on the flywheel was about 6o degrees off, but there was a faint hand scratched mark where it should have been. (AHA moment) Re-set the timing belt and viola started right up first try. DUH.
Lessons learned: Don't trust the marks. Some douche before you may have mis-assembled something. Always verify all settings, such as TDC.
Lessons learned: Don't trust the marks. Some douche before you may have mis-assembled something. Always verify all settings, such as TDC.
I was fairly sure that regardless of year, all F22s still kept the timing marks in the same spot on the flywheel, even on the later 94-97s that used the harmonic damper.
Are you sure it was 60°? If it's closer to 45° someone may have installed the flywheel off by a bolt hole, and you may in fact be missing a couple of bolts. Unless some munchkin 'opened' the holes up to make them work.
That is spooky.
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