so was on the track yesterday and checked out my inlet to my turbo and just full of oil in the inducer. it a gt35r so dual ball bearing . and checked the wheel and one wheel has a slight chip out it .

ive had the turbo for 3 years now and this is the first time i have seen oil like this . was A LOT

if it did need a rebuild anyone know ruffly ?

 

pics? brand?

 

Can't. Cartridge exchange time...

 

GT35R



If he's lying, it'll only hurt him more..

 

no pictures atm . and its a garrett gt35r

where can i find info on getting this cartage u speak of

btw there is no shaft play feels normal .

Also the oil appeared after doing a burnout AKA 2step .

 

lol

 

Shaft play doesn't mean something wrong all the time. The bearings will wear down over time. Its perfectly normal for the GT-R series to have some over time.

AH.. One of the main culprits of the destruction of these bad boys over time. The wicked two step prep at the drag strip.. Question: How many seconds are you staying on it (on average) before you get out of it at the "tree?"

However. If its been 3 years, that means that until recently, everything has been good.
NOW would be a good time to get those pictures of the issues.

 

ill get pictures hopefully tomorrow . and usually 2 step is like 1-4 seconds id say .

i was ending the track season with a big burnout and was on the rev limiter for a little bit and when popped the hood the turbo inducer was full of oil .

its been a good turbo for the past 3 years and have done over 100 + 1/4s 10+ road courses and a couple autoxs PLUS daily driving it in the summer


can someone link to the carridge for it ? i m trying to find it online

just emailed garret so hopefully i hear back . ill post picture and update

 

it's the CHRA
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=CHRA

 

im seeing pricing with the garret exchange program for alot less then that as they take ur core. but we will see what they say for pricing


wow $1000 for a new chra . id be just getting a new turbo . wouldnt be worth it id like to try the 6262 .

 

the CHRA is the turbo, for all intents and purposes. check out the GTX stuff, it will fit your housings. i was pretty close to getting the GTX turbo myself.

 

It would be significantly less than what's posted on the ATP link, yes. You would send a check for the replacement amount, (about 500 bucks or so) with your old cartridge , as they want something salvagable, and they'd send the new one.

IMHO, you'd be going backwards going that route. I'm just sayin'.

 

 

forsure the turbo will need to be replaced tho ? or could it just be a bad return line or to much pressure ?


LOL id hate to replace a turbo when doesnt need to . im awaiting garrets reply

 

Again, if you've used the correct equipment in the previous years, and nothing else has been changed or used. It hard to say. Even Garrett couldn't answer that. Is it pooling oil or just residue? Which restrictor are you using? is it just residue in the inlet or anywhere else? How's the intercooler piping? Anything there? How are you eliminating crankcase pressure? That too, is key.

There's a lot you have to show and relate to any professional to determine if the turbo is shot. So a video or multiple pictures can help. But there are a lot of questions that need to be answered first

 

okay hopefully i can get a picture of it all today


only thing that changed this year was the return line as old one rubbed on the manifold and sprung a leak . so new one is in there im hoping the return line is wrong .

and there was ALOT of oil in the side . the restrictor i forget what one but i got it from b&r fitting when i got all my line and what not for that turbo.

this was a pooling oil looked like . im hoping to get the piping off and see ill hopefully get pictures for u guys asap .

 

If there is a chip in the compressor wheel I would be taking everything apart to try and find it. My guess is its wedged in the intake side of your intercooler.

Also a chip means at least the compressor wheel is bad. You can just swap the compressor wheel but it would need to be balanced. That is if you can fix the oil issue.

If you have to swap the compressor I would swap to a GTX compressor wheel and housing.

The CHRA exchange program through garrett is awesome! Let us know what they tell you.

 

That sounds like an oil back up issue. When you change return lines and it is not in the same configuration as before, with a change in routing, that could easily be the cause of a return line backup problem, in which case you have found your answer, after you've found the piece of compressor wheel. Your best case scenario is you find another compressor wheel, and have it rebalanced, or have it sent to a Garrett distributor to have it inspected, wheel repair and rebalance. You're looking at about $250 or so to do all that including the compressor wheel replacement. But that's your best case scenario.