What's the best way to drop/pull the engine on the 7th gen civic's? I don't want mess with the A/c system at all and have to get it recharged later if i open the closed system to the atmosphere..

I'm a pro when it comes to the 88-00 civc's and integras never really messed with these newer civics. Just replaced the head on my 2004 and now hearing a knocking sound. So i need to pull the block and have the machine shop take a look at it.

 

Drop the subframe, and you'll easily be able to avoid removing the A/C components from the compressor.

 

when dropping the subframe do you need to get everything aligned afterwards?

 

Yeah, but when removing the engine, you're going to have a hard time avoiding that in general.

 

Most people say it's easier to pull it from the top. So I have some mixed feelings about this. I'm going to research this some more.

 

if you have access to a lift, dropping it from the bottom would be easier.

 

floor jacks, jack stands, and a cherry picker is all i got.

 

I've removed a few D17's, and I will disagree entirely. You don't have to navigate the entire drivetrain around over the frame rails if you drop it down.

 

in the past three month i have pulled my d17a2 3 times 2 from the top and 1 from the bottom and yes its wayyyy easyer from the top and if you remover the radiator the ac pump can be pulled in to the place of the radiator its is a pain but it can be done

 

thanks guys for all the input i decided to pull it from the top. damn i totally miss the OG d-series / b-series cars. So much easier.

 

oohh... you didnt have to take the tranny out too... but too late!!!!

 

I'm going to split the trans to check the inline filter and clutch packs. So it had to come out anyways. So yesterday I took it to Hopsing which is the local machine shop down here in San Diego. I already pulled the main caps/girdle to inspect the bearings. A little beat but Hopsing's said that's not that bad, then proceeded give a few tugs on the rod ends. So far he said doesn't seem to be rod knock. But anyhow the block needs to be decked, honed, new rings, mic / polish the crank, and new rod/main bearings. So pretty much I'll have a fresh block for cheap. More to come in a few days once Hopsing's gives me the final word on what's going inside the block.

So I'm thinking it's possible the knocking sound could be piston slap, or what else could it be. Hopsing did say the valve lash was way off. Funny he brought that up. I checked the valve lash, and then called my buddy afterwards to double check everything. How could it change so dramatically?