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Sorry what is cts?? 94

 

coolant temp sensor?

 

fpr wont make a difference unless you have a gauge. are you getting fuel?

 

Yea the coolant temp sensor

 

Sorry coolant temp sensor

 

Yra I oh the gauge on the fuel filter nd I had to aduist it down to 42 and I unhooked the return nd put s hide with bottle and there's fuel coming out...turns on but dies pretty quick...anyone else got any advice? Need to get it running!

 

OIC, ECT sensor, if indeed it is the ECT sensor and not the ECT sending unit or ECT switch, then you need to replace it, the ECT sensor supplies the ECU/ECM with engine temp so ECU/ECM can adjust A/F ratio.

You could be running very rich.

FYI..
ECT sending unit controls temp gauge in the cluster.
ECT switch controls rad fan relay.

Have you checked for stored codes, even if CEL is not on? 94

 

Well the sensor that's on the side of the head is that the ect sensor? That should be good since the car use to run fine according to the previous owner...but the sensor that i have broken is the one on the thermostar housing which I'm guessing is the one that controls the rad fan relay correct? But its just weird that the car starts and actually turns on for a few seconds then shuts off...if it was one of those sensors would it allow it to turn on and just die down?haven't checked for any stored codes but could the ecu b no good? I have an extra p28 I can slap in

 

Any ideas?

 

First off it doesn't sound like you did the valve lash right, start with cyl # 1 rotate the crank ect.. as per the haynes manual says.

After that has been checked correct it sounds you might have a fuel delivery problem, It starts cause it has a small amount of fuel then shuts off cause no fuel is being pumped i believe.
deff use a oem fpr, its unnecessary to use a after market fpr if its not a full out race car!
Your tuner will usually adjust fp with your engine management.
Your ecu is gonna look for the oem fp and could be one of the issues.
Hows the fuel pump?
What injectors? stock?

 

I'm sure i did the valve lash right i used the oem manual and followed all the stwps only tjing is that wen i got to adjust the valves on cylinder 2 and 4 the intake side wqs real tight and wouldnt adjist so the only way i could adjust it was by putting them on the exhaust stroke....and im using stock injectors and Idk if maybe they aren't plunging down enough etc....and fuel pump primes but not sure if its stock ir replacement

 

Is it a 1 wire or 2 wire sensor that is broken?

What color are the wires, green and black, like this...


If it is that 2 wire sensor and you jump the 2 leads, [with ign. switch on] does the rad fan turn on?

If so, then it is the ECT switch and it will not prevent engine from running, but you will have to replace it, for now you can just connect the leads together, [leave them jumped] so rad fan turns on when the ign. is turned on, no point in damaging the engine by overheating it.

I am going to have to agree with wunfstgsr, it sure sounds like a fuel issue.

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, or do you even know?

I know you said you have fuel pressure, is that at the filter or at the fuel rail?
94

 

Ok yea then ita the ect switch that is the one that I have broken, so ill do wat u said for now and continue to the real issue lol...I got fuel pressure at the rail and at the filter...and I have know idea when the filter was changed my fuel pressure doesn't go down but I agree with u guys the fuel just cuts off maybe bad fuel pump?

 

If the fuel pressure does not drop, then the fuel pump is not your problem.

I would check for power at the injectors, [lead that is the same color at all 4 injectors] when the engine stalls.

I would check for injector pulse, also as engine stalls.

Also for spark as engine stalls. 94

 

I checked my injectors and two are bad so im goin to replace them all with some extra ones I have that I had on my other gsr with low miles....thanks for all the helpful info

 

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