Im sure its gonna be something i overlooked but heres backstory and what ive done.
1992 integra ls, swapped in a b20, everything ran fine for 2 days, no cel, idle was on point, all good.
on the 3rd day i got maybe 1/2 mile up the road and it starts sputtering, then runs fine for about a block then i lose all throttle response. starts back up and then within a minute same thing all over again. then wont start.
now heres what ive done
- cel was solid so i borrowed a known good ecu but still nothing.
- all fuses (ecu under hood, 18 and 24 in dash) checked out but replaced just in case.
- warranty on main relay so got another one.
- all grounds are secure and i have 12v at all connections.

The main relay only clicks once with key in onII, fuel pump doesnt prime.
im hoping its not the pump, i just put in a new walbro 190 in order to get the old motor running, but i havent tested strait to the pump to see, i dont have wire long enough on hand at the moment.
i know i need to do that in order to confirm if thats it but is there anything im missing that i can test before that?

 

forgot to write in, night of 2nd day and on 3rd day when it finally stopped, the fuel pump seemed to be louder after start up. it was like this before initially replacing both pump and relay for old motor. Is this a pump issue or the relay?

 

This type of problem is usually either the ignitor in the distributor or the main relay. Since you say the main relay is new and you've tested with a known good ecu, that still leaves the ignitor. However, since the fuel pump is new and aftermarket, it should be considered as a potential problem. The way to rule that out is of course to check the fuel pressure. If that checks out, see if you can try a known good distributor.

GL.

 

i agree with everything kchung said,but when you get to checking the distributor,find out if there is 12v to the yellow wire on the dizzy first.

if there is 12v,it will be something in the distributor.if there is not 12v,you will be looking at the ignition switch or main relay(with the possiblilty of a bad ecu).but based on the info you included,this is looking like an ignition switch or dizzy internal problem.

 

Your problem is the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel related].

You do not need a long lead to test the fuel pump, unplug the relay and use a paper clip to jump from the yellow/white, [12V+ constant] to the yellow/black, [fuel pump power lead].
Test the yellow/white lead first, to make sure it has power.

If the pump runs, plug the PGM-FI Main Relay back in and use a jumper to supply a ground to the green/black, [ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead], you can jump from the black ground lead to the green/black control lead, once you have it jumped, try and start the engine.

Info for those that do not know, the distributor assembly power lead is black/yellow, not yellow. 94

 

just got in from doin more tests and kinda figured it out.
i have a ground wire running into the relay where the ecu gives power. number 8.
and it runs the pump continuously but the car runs now.

so its obviously a wiring issue somewhere, which i really suck with electrical stuff so its no bueno.

on a sidenote, i ran a ground into the number 7 port on the main relay, for the fuel pump, and it ended up blowing fuse 24.

 

@fcm ya i have the port on the relay where the ecu turns the pump on grounded now and it runs fine except that the pump runs continuoulsy.

 

Check IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM for power, both must have power for ECU/ECM to supply the ground signal for fuel pump relay, [what your suppling now]. 94

 

they should both be giving off 12v right?
ill have to test them tomorrow its pouring over here right now.

im not that great when it comes to wiring so if this is all inbetween the ecu and main relay is it something easy enough to fix? or is it kinda in depth?