My rear brakes are intermittently locking. It's not a complete lockup, but when I finish driving the wheel is pretty damn hot. It bounces from left to right sides and sometimes there's no lockup at all. It seems it's totally random. I've changed calipers and flushed brake line but problem remains. My only other option is prop control valve. Anyone else experience this before? Just looking for an answer before I drop $50-$100 on a new PCV. Thanks.

 

how do you know its "locking" up? just by the heat? or have you jacked the car up and tried turning the wheel and they are LOCKED?

YEAR MAKE MODEL.
DRUMS or DISKS?

 

Yeah, I've jacked the car up and the wheel has a good amount of resistance - more than normal. 1998, base disk

 

1998 what? civic,accord,prelude,integra.

 

Lets just run with the idea that they have a Prelude since they are posting in the Prelude forum.

Have you checked the emergency brake, it could be tight and dragging, or sticking on something inside the disc.

Otherwise maybe the wheel bearings are shot and heating up?

 

^ ok!

yea i agree with you!

 

Well I found a used prop valve, $25 on ebay, installed it and all was well. For 10 days. Today the rear passenger wheel was hot just as before. I had noticed that about 2 months ago, after I bled all the brakes, that the locking problem went away for a short time - similar to what happened this time. Any ideas as to why I'd have functioning brakes for 10 days after bleeding brakes and then be back to lockup? So what I've done so far is change calipers, rear brake lines (vertical), prop valve and flushed brake fluid and bled.

 

Have you checked the wheel bearings and e-brake pads yet?

 

I replaced the pads when I replaced the prop valve. I wouldn't think it'd be the wheel bearings since the problem seems to jump from passenger side to driver side intermittently. I could go one day with no lockup, the next the passenger side locks up and the next day the drivers side locks up.

This may be a silly question, but most break pads come with the shim installed on the pad, correct? I see on the schematic in the service manual where the brake pads detail a shim.

 

i had a very similar issue with my front right locking up, I loosened the master cylinder from the brake booster while it was locked up one day. Wheel freed up, and i just shimmed the master cylinder away from the booster slightly. My bad part is the booster, but I don't feel like changing it out. Its been like this for 2 years now. Something to check...

When the wheel feels hot like its locking up, jack it up and remove the wheel, and open the brake bleeder valve on the stuck wheel to see if its brake fluid pressure holding the wheel. I hope I don't have to tell you to be careful.

My front rotors used to turn glowing red from trying to drive while the brakes were being applied..

 

Check for free movement of the slider pins. Also check your flex lines fur rust buildup between the lines an fittings. I have seen flex hoses become pinched by rust buildup and not release fluid pressure in the lines causing overheating.