Car dies out after re-torquing headsteads
I have a built f22a1 block with a h23a1 head. I was gettig some issues with it so i was told to try re-torqueing the head studs. After getting it all back together an timed, i started the car, it ran great for 15 seconds or so, then started falling on its ***. RPMs drop and the engine sounds like its almost ready to die, and then it revs itself back up and sounds good for 5 seconds. This process repeats itself.
When we timed it, it was about half a tooth off on the intake cam, but with kt being a frankenstein engine, we assumed that its just how it should be timed.
Could i have messed up the original tune on it? Or should i look more into changing the timing on the intake cam?
When we timed it, it was about half a tooth off on the intake cam, but with kt being a frankenstein engine, we assumed that its just how it should be timed.
Could i have messed up the original tune on it? Or should i look more into changing the timing on the intake cam?
Im just trying to get it to run to sell. If i cant, im just going to part it out. Ive got about $12000 in parts that i can make about $5000 off of if i sell them cheaply. But id prefer to make life easier on myself and sell the car as a whole
Unless you built it with the wrong timing parts, all marks should line up. If it says it's a tooth off, then you need to retime it
Well it doesnt show a full tooth, which is weird. The car ran fine before i took it apart, there was a cooling pressure issue, so thats why i did it. But now it looks as though its going to have to be about a half tooth off retarded or advanced. Everything else lines up.
There is no such thing as "half" a tooth off. It is either in time, or it is not. If the timing mark is midway, look at the valve position and crank mark. Your problem may be timing related, but I doubt it has to do with the "half" a tooth issue....
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Nice quote in sig, funny I dont ever remember saying that
not experienced with frankenstein engines but does it sound like some kind of vacuum leak? most every time ive heard fluctuating idle someone just forgot to plug back in a line somewhere. just a thought
Where its at now is slightly retarded on the intake cam. Move it one tooth advanced, and it lines up slightly advanced. To get the lines to match, the belt would be tooth on tooth, thats where were getting our "half" tooth off.
As for the vacuum leak, i've thought about it, but the only vacuum required to remove for this was the pcv
Wish i could give an update on this, but i havnt gotten around to doing anything about it yet. Sucks owning a house and having to do **** all the time.
I guess you'll have to bring that up to the 10+ year ASE mechanic.
Where its at now is slightly retarded on the intake cam. Move it one tooth advanced, and it lines up slightly advanced. To get the lines to match, the belt would be tooth on tooth, thats where were getting our "half" tooth off.
Where its at now is slightly retarded on the intake cam. Move it one tooth advanced, and it lines up slightly advanced. To get the lines to match, the belt would be tooth on tooth, thats where were getting our "half" tooth off.
<<<<<<<<<<15 year Master tech. With an actual understanding of valve timing sequence and about 100+ timing belt jobs performed..
I know how to read timing marks. If you did too, you'd know there are 2 marks, one to line up with the top of the head and the other to line up with the other cam. The intake one is off so slightly that if it were to be set on mark, the belt would line up tooth on tooth with the cam. Now, im no mathematician but seems to me that if it lines up halfway between 1 tooth, you get 1/2.
I think what you meant to tell me was "sounds like something off that slightly wont be causing your issue". So, thanks man i'll look somewhere else fir the issue.
I think what you meant to tell me was "sounds like something off that slightly wont be causing your issue". So, thanks man i'll look somewhere else fir the issue.
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