92 Honda accord cpe EX 4 cylinder.

I replaced the axle bearings on both front end spindles like 2 yrs ago for the same problem...now it has come back on the same side the drivers. It has some play like maybe 1/8-1/4 inch. What do u think is the cause?

Could the CVjoint/axle be the culprit?

I dont want to do this again and not know for sure.

Basically when you wiggle the whole wheel/tire side to side meaning from left to right IF you were standing in front of the whole vehicle...it has some play not a whole terrible amount but some. I am obviously wiggling it as I grab the top of the tire and push forward and back when I am facing the tire from the side of the vehicle and it is parked.

No the wheel lug nuts are not the problem as they are irrevocably tight.
I imagine the bearings are shot again !! and they cost a lot to have the new ones pressed in not too long ago. Has anyone ever seen the CVjoint/axle cause this? Because if so....I will then replace the whole drivers side axle alongside the bearings.
This is the type of spindle with the stupid disc behind the bolts...so super aggravating to work on and far far from fun..i'd like to put it off for a little longer for summer to die out more.
Neither of the axles make noise when u turn which is the classic determination for when they are bad...and well I cant tell if this driver side axle is bad or not. But something is bringing this play back to the same driver spindle.

 

Just a question but has the ball joints, tie rods, or upper ball joints been replaced?

 

I checked those the last time...but thanks for suggesting i am going to check them again....basically they did not show up as being the reason for the play...
its as if the play is from simply the wheel hub it's just abnormally loose...by hub i mean what u lugnut the wheel/tire to.
When i had them press the wheel hub into the new bearings there was basically no more slack. So i thought nothing of it.
Now it seems something has somehow banged out some play and repeated the whol e thing

 

If you replaced the bearing but not the hub, that would be your problem.

 

If you decide to swap it out, go ahead and do the lower ball joint and upper control arm(Which has a new ball joint installed) Whole shooting match, and youre under $100 in parts.

 

Manny I havent been under this car in a little while and it's tuff to remember perfectly becuz from time to time I work on other cars as well.

I had the new bearings pressed into their carriers. And no I do not beleive I replaced the hub which I think I slid into the bearings when I got home and then bolted the whole thing onto the spindle....I hope im not confused or confusing anyone. the name of the parts are probably not deadon.

Are u meaning to say that perhaps the hub had play to begin with and that has ruined the new bearings? after I slid it on?

That would mean definitively my other theory about the axle is not the problem.

Honestly I feel like fuggin trying to score the whole fuggin thing spindle/hub/carrier from the junkyard even tho I know this particular arrangement is a complete ballbuster to work on and crack open the hard bolts esp..in a junkyard. Last time I was there I bumped into quite a few honda original spindles with absolutely no play.

I would like to know if you also think it is impossible for the axle to be the cause of this?....So i can remove it from the list of replacing it since neither side is making any noises.

I think it should be impossible for the axle to do this...and perhaps it can be more the fault of the hub that slides into the bearings. I could be confused on this tho...I need to find some pictures.

 

If you have play at the 9 and 3 position then it's the tie rod. If you have play at the 12 and 6 then it's bearing. If you have vibration on acceleration then it's axle most likely. For lower ball joints, jack the car up with wheels off the ground. Put a long stick under the tire and pry up and the joint should not move loosely.
As for the bearing replacement, AM auto parts online has the bearing and hub set for $88 shipped. Many members on CB7tuner have used them and they are great. Geekspart.com also have the whole set for $17.60 each and I email them to confirm that it's both hub and bearing together and they confirmed that. With the price being so cheap, I could only think it's a clear out.

 

Bad dude thanks for the bargain find..the play is def...at the 12 and 6 oclock positions....I want to order that and since I was able to see the picture it reminded me of how the parts work together. I know for certain I did not leave the axle nut(bug nut on outside center of wheel)loose. If anything I would have maybe overtightened. The brakes are definitely not binding all tho I plan to look it over yet again.

I did some research and it's come up that bearings can fail prematurely simply because of bad product manuf...meaning I got a dud on that one side....but truth be told I replaced both sides the last time only because one was bad and that one was this same side. Between the brakes being fine and my belief that altho I did not torque the axle nut to any spec....I did torque it down damm "good". This only leaves the CV AXLE as the likely culprit....

I was thinking that it is possible that even tho a CV AXLE is not making noise or rattling that where the inner shaft meets (covered by boot) with the outer shaft(axle nut bolts up to) Those ***** inside there could wear out in time just enuff to have play....and that play could be enuff to ruin 2 sets of bearings so far.

I'm just looking for an explanation guys...as well as if it's possible then I will be picking up the stupid axle to completely eliminate the problem....it's a damm good car and worth it. I hate sometimes working on it...but once this and the rear motor mount are done...I know this thing isn't going to give me anymore headaches for a good 100K.

Let me know your thoughts on the cv axle theory....I cant seem to find other stories on the internet to support it yet.

 

Anyone? with experience about driver side bearing going bad repeatedly? If not because of the axle can it be a wheel not properly balanced?

 

I had a toyota wheel bearing go bad in less than a year. I do not completely know the source of this, but I used unsealed bearings. I would think that if you did not replace the hub at the same time this could your problem. When the bearings go bad normally the hub has wear too. If it has enough play I would think that that can cause the bearing to move which would cause it to wear. Also, I know that when I had an alignment done immediately after replacing my bearing and hub on my Toyota that that same wheel was the only one that had a camber issue. Perhaps this caused stress to the bearing as well. Like I said, I'm not too sure, but you can normally tell the difference in sounds of an axle being bad and a wheel bearing. The wheel bearing being bad makes more of a "whirling" or "roaring" sound while an axle makes a clicking or sometimes a thumping sound.

What you can do is just get the wheel off the car and spin the wheel or take the wheel off and spin the hub. If there is play like you are saying this should be wheel bearing. If this is the case, then buy both a hub and bearing, normally called a hub repair kit and take the spindel off and take it to a machine shop so they can use their press to press out the old and press in the new. Yes you can do it yourself there are videos but this is really the easy way imo. They will probably charge you like 20 or 25 bucks.