Can I install head studs without removing the head?
Doing a turbo setup on a stock b16 on 8psi. And people say to put in head studs but my headgasket is good and I don't want to break the seal. Anyway to install head studs without pulling the head? Or do I not have to run head studs?
there's no reason you should need to use head studs at 8psi. dont even worry about them until you start gertting up to around 13-14psi. but if you are really worried about it, you could go in and tighten all the stock head bolts down a few more lbs (in the same order you would if you were doing a head gasket install). it never hurts. just dont get over about 70ft-lbs on them tho because they put a lot of stress on the threads in the block.
So don't put in head studs? I figured when I boost it and get it tuned. Then if I blow the headgasket down the road I'll do head studs
at 8 lbs i wouldn't worry about it. i've never known anyone who has blown a head gasket or lifted a head on 8 lbs. i ran a bone stock ls on 12lbs turning 8200rpm for 8 months until i didn't change my oil and spun 2 mains. some of my buddys have taken stock b16s to 20lbs on stock head studs and made great power (not recommended though) without issues.
but long story short, 8 lbs wont hurt it lol.
but long story short, 8 lbs wont hurt it lol.
be it 8 or 13psi ( I see as usual, people are not posting specific turbos or CFM Rates again.) studs are needed unless going over 400whp or so. No need to change if the head and engine are healthy
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Boost to 18-24 psi and studs are a must, but not with that small amount of boost. Might be a good idea to retorque just to make sure all is good, but your fine as is on 8#.
the guy isn't trying to figure out rocket science here. he just wants to know if he needs to have studs at 8lbs or not. and at 8lbs it really doesn't matter kind of turbo you have. even if he had an eclipse turbo, he'd still make decent power
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8lbs on t25 vs a gt4202 is a big difference in power and cylinder pressures so yes it does matter...
i always tell people to use them because you're gonna want more power down the road and you might as well do it now
i always tell people to use them because you're gonna want more power down the road and you might as well do it now
Hes running a turbonetics 50trim, I believe. or something close from turbonetics.
I told him he mite want to consider it. For extra insurance. Ive always hearded to put arp headstuds if running 8psi or over( sub 300whp).
Then when i blew my headgasket running 10psi on a 57trim. I understood why everybody said it so much. I had to learn the hard way as most of us do. And i had a somewhat fresh swap. Off of the 10psi i put out 285whp( sub 300whp), then eventually it finally lifted and gave.
Every engine is different.
Better safe than sorry.
I told him he mite want to consider it. For extra insurance. Ive always hearded to put arp headstuds if running 8psi or over( sub 300whp).
Then when i blew my headgasket running 10psi on a 57trim. I understood why everybody said it so much. I had to learn the hard way as most of us do. And i had a somewhat fresh swap. Off of the 10psi i put out 285whp( sub 300whp), then eventually it finally lifted and gave.
Every engine is different.
Better safe than sorry.
Hes running a turbonetics 50trim, I believe. or something close from turbonetics.
I told him he mite want to consider it. For extra insurance. Ive always hearded to put arp headstuds if running 8psi or over( sub 300whp).
Then when i blew my headgasket running 10psi on a 57trim. I understood why everybody said it so much. I had to learn the hard way as most of us do. And i had a somewhat fresh swap. Off of the 10psi i put out 285whp( sub 300whp), then eventually it finally lifted and gave.
Every engine is different.
Better safe than sorry.
I told him he mite want to consider it. For extra insurance. Ive always hearded to put arp headstuds if running 8psi or over( sub 300whp).
Then when i blew my headgasket running 10psi on a 57trim. I understood why everybody said it so much. I had to learn the hard way as most of us do. And i had a somewhat fresh swap. Off of the 10psi i put out 285whp( sub 300whp), then eventually it finally lifted and gave.
Every engine is different.
Better safe than sorry.
There is no need to put in head studs for the power you want to run, unless the head bolts have been reused which they should never be. If you do decide to run head studs which is a good idea for extra safety but again not needed, then yes you need to pull the head off and replace the head gasket. Once the head have been tightened the gasket is crushed to seal and it only works once. If you do pull the head for studs then that is the time to have the head checked, resurfaced for a clean surface for the gaskets to seal on, have the valves checked along with the valve guides and replace the valve seals. Might as well do it right the first time if you are going so far as to pull the head.
And 8psi from a DSM turbo is not even decent. I could get out and push the car to make it faster than to use 25lbs/min at 8psi.
Some one else tried to replace the studs without replacing the head gasket and it didn't work at all. He had leaks everywhere. If you replace them just get a new head gasket. They aren't that expansive.
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