2001 honda civic lx 4 door sedan, Last night while traveling , Check engine light came on and engine power was reduced. So much so that car won't run more than 30-40 mph. I somehow made it to home. After turning off the engine I tried to restart it. it would crank but engine won't start. I do hear humming by fuel pump when I turn on ignition. there is gas smell after few attempts. I replaced spark plugs. it tries to start but then dies after first stroke.
got a code scanner and pulled out codes
p0336 ckp sensor
p0135 o2 primary sensor
p0141 o2 secondary sensor

so I started trouble shooting the main suspect p0336 ckp sensor, there is battery voltage, ground and 5v signal in connector. next step in trouble shooting is to replace the ckp sensor. I want to check the resistance of ckp sensor before replacing it.
which two terminals should be connected to check the resistance, and what is the resistance of a good ckp sensor in these civics?
any other ideas

 

Did you pop your hood ? Same thing happend to mine and it was a clogged catalitic converter my manifold was glowing red but I didnt push it , u might have fried your o2 sensor with the heat and now its going too rich or lean to start

 

O2 sensor troubleshooting was done. it came down to a shot fuse (10A) in under dashn fuse Box. fuse was replaced with a new one. codes cleared. code havent returned back until yet during efforts to start engine . Plan is to change oxygen sensors anyway as i havent changed them for last 2 years.

Does anyone know how to check CKP senor if it is working right. One way is to check its resistance but i dont know, between which terminals/cable i should check resistance and how much it should be?

 

I can't seem to find anything as far as a resistance value, only voltage.

Thankfully someone has already created a DIY for the P0336 DTC. Saves me the effort of making one myself.

Click here and read post #5

 

so I fixed the problem this Saturday. the plan was to change crank shaft position sensor. I took out timing covers, opened crankshaft pully bolt (bitch), and pulled out the pully. so what I noticed that one of the teeth on cranshaft was missing. it took me 15 min to go through all the debris that fell through timing covers to finally find that missing tooth. I used JB weld to put it back together and let it sit for few hours. car started after I put things back together. a sigh of relief!
now, hopefully JB weld would last, but is there anyway to replace that whole bearing or pully on crankshaft with a new one? I m talking about the one on which timing belt runs!
my timing belt was changed 30000 miles ago, so I didn't changed it this time. it may sound silly but I m not enthusiastic of fixing things if they don't really need to!
I didn't replace ckp sensor, apparently there was nothing wrong with it or it's wiring since all troubleshooting didn't reveal anything wrong. there was this missing tooth, not letting ckp sensor send that specific voltage signal to ecu/PCM. so PCM was getting confused and was messing up on fuel/electric in engine.

million dollar question! why did the tooth break? it's metal! not plastic or paper, I guess I might find in next few days if a tooth breaks again!

 

I've been having the exact same issue as was first posted in this thread. Then, after toying with the issue intermittently, my car went to a crank-no start issue. I'll admit up front, I'm just learning the while world of auto mechanics, so I dove in deep today. I replaced my ckp sensor as well as timing belt....to no avail. She'll still crank up, run for 1.5 seconds, and die. After a couple attempts, you can smell the unburnt fuel, the whole 9 yards. I didn't notice any broken teeth, but I could've easily missed something like that, not looking hard while I had it apart. I've got O2 sensors coming...anyone think that could be the root problem? I'm stumped! Help a rookie, please!

 

I changed the CMP sensor after I got an P1361 code. Previously the car ran some distance and then lost power and didn't move much until it didn't even start. After I changed the CMP sensor everything seemed ok until like 3 or for days afterwards when I stopped at a light the car went dead. It cranked but wouldn't start.