1995 Honda Odyssey Starts - only runs for a second
Hi,
I am stumped with this problem. The car cranks and the engine starts, but it dies after a second or so. If I try to crank it again right away, then it will just crank and not start. However, if I turn the key (dash lights on) and wait for 3-5 seconds (right after I hear what I think is the main relay clicking), then it will crank and run for about 1 second again. It will do this every time.
I took out the main relay and looked at the solder joints and they look shiny and clean. I found instructions online to test it and it tested out fine.
The battery is new and I was told that if the alternator was bad that the car would run if I jumped it with another car. That did not work. It still died after starting.
At this point, I can't get it started at all. Help will be greatly appreciated?
I am stumped with this problem. The car cranks and the engine starts, but it dies after a second or so. If I try to crank it again right away, then it will just crank and not start. However, if I turn the key (dash lights on) and wait for 3-5 seconds (right after I hear what I think is the main relay clicking), then it will crank and run for about 1 second again. It will do this every time.
I took out the main relay and looked at the solder joints and they look shiny and clean. I found instructions online to test it and it tested out fine.
The battery is new and I was told that if the alternator was bad that the car would run if I jumped it with another car. That did not work. It still died after starting.
At this point, I can't get it started at all. Help will be greatly appreciated?
Try this:
Start the car, but instead of releasing the key and allowing the ignition to spring back, HOLD THE KEY IN THE CRANK POSITION, but back it off JUST enough to disengage the starter.
Does the car stay running so long as you hold the key in the crank position?
If so, does it die when you release the key as you normally would?
If yes to both questions, you need an ignition pigtail, or electrical portion of the ignition switch. any local dealership parts guy worth a damn will know exactly what you're talking about if you describe it as either one.
If none of this happens? I'm kind of at a loss.
Start the car, but instead of releasing the key and allowing the ignition to spring back, HOLD THE KEY IN THE CRANK POSITION, but back it off JUST enough to disengage the starter.
Does the car stay running so long as you hold the key in the crank position?
If so, does it die when you release the key as you normally would?
If yes to both questions, you need an ignition pigtail, or electrical portion of the ignition switch. any local dealership parts guy worth a damn will know exactly what you're talking about if you describe it as either one.
If none of this happens? I'm kind of at a loss.
Try this:
Start the car, but instead of releasing the key and allowing the ignition to spring back, HOLD THE KEY IN THE CRANK POSITION, but back it off JUST enough to disengage the starter.
Does the car stay running so long as you hold the key in the crank position?
If so, does it die when you release the key as you normally would?
If yes to both questions, you need an ignition pigtail, or electrical portion of the ignition switch. any local dealership parts guy worth a damn will know exactly what you're talking about if you describe it as either one.
If none of this happens? I'm kind of at a loss.
Start the car, but instead of releasing the key and allowing the ignition to spring back, HOLD THE KEY IN THE CRANK POSITION, but back it off JUST enough to disengage the starter.
Does the car stay running so long as you hold the key in the crank position?
If so, does it die when you release the key as you normally would?
If yes to both questions, you need an ignition pigtail, or electrical portion of the ignition switch. any local dealership parts guy worth a damn will know exactly what you're talking about if you describe it as either one.
If none of this happens? I'm kind of at a loss.
Do u get a CEL? Try resetting the ecu by pulling the fuse out in the engine compartment
Ok, sorry for the delay. Thanks for all your replies. Let me see if I can address each of them.
@B18C5-EH2
I tried keeping the key turned, but it still died. Once I kept it turned long enough such that it actually tried to start it again after it died. The ignition seems to be fine.
@accord_man12
I am not sure how to disconnect the computer. Can you point me in the right direction? Does disconnecting the battery disconnect the computer? I have been leaving the battery unhooked lately.
@evil_ryu
I'm not sure what a CEL is. I pulled the ECU fuse and put it back last week and it didn't seem to do anything. I pulled it today with the battery unhooked and now it starts up. It has not started in three weeks. What did that do to it? What is the ECU? I could not find anything online that told me in a quick search.
Should I expect this problem to come back? Is this a sign of something in particular failing? I am surprised and pleased. Thank you much for the help.
@B18C5-EH2
I tried keeping the key turned, but it still died. Once I kept it turned long enough such that it actually tried to start it again after it died. The ignition seems to be fine.
@accord_man12
I am not sure how to disconnect the computer. Can you point me in the right direction? Does disconnecting the battery disconnect the computer? I have been leaving the battery unhooked lately.
@evil_ryu
I'm not sure what a CEL is. I pulled the ECU fuse and put it back last week and it didn't seem to do anything. I pulled it today with the battery unhooked and now it starts up. It has not started in three weeks. What did that do to it? What is the ECU? I could not find anything online that told me in a quick search.
Should I expect this problem to come back? Is this a sign of something in particular failing? I am surprised and pleased. Thank you much for the help.
CEL = check engine light
by pulling the fuse it helps reset the ecu and all....
the ECU is the brain of the car it should be located on the bottom panel on the passenger side.. might have to pull the kick panel and it should be there
by pulling the fuse it helps reset the ecu and all....
the ECU is the brain of the car it should be located on the bottom panel on the passenger side.. might have to pull the kick panel and it should be there
Oh, CEL. Should have thought of that. No, it has not shown itself. I am curious about the ECU. I was guessing that it was the computer, but I was not sure. I believe the fuse for it is under the hood on the passenger side. I presume you were not indicating that the fuse is near the ECU?
I have never heard of having to reset a car's computer. Does this mean that I should expect it to fail soon? I would think that disconnecting the battery would do the same thing. Is that not the case?
I have never heard of having to reset a car's computer. Does this mean that I should expect it to fail soon? I would think that disconnecting the battery would do the same thing. Is that not the case?
Last edited by lingochad; Oct 8, 2012 at 05:40 AM.
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Well, this morning the car will not start again. I tried pulling the ECU fuse and putting it back, but it does not start. Symptoms are still identical to original post.
It really seems like an electrical short of some kind in something that kicks in right after the car starts. How do I tell if my ECU is bad? What about something like that in the Fuel pump? Any thoughts?
It really seems like an electrical short of some kind in something that kicks in right after the car starts. How do I tell if my ECU is bad? What about something like that in the Fuel pump? Any thoughts?
Last edited by lingochad; Oct 8, 2012 at 05:42 AM.
I have the same problem I believe....watch my video..let me know.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-82K...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-82K...ature=youtu.be
Yes, that is very much the same thing that mine is doing. I finally gave up on it and took it to a mechanic. He has not been able to diagnose the problem yet. He did tell me that it is losing the electrical signal at the fuel rail or ignitor rail (I think I heard him right). He said it could be the ECU or the distributor or the wiring between.
Mine had been doing this thing where it would change to half power and the D4 light would flash on me. I could still drive it, but then it quit doing that about 5 months ago. It did it again when I took it to the mechanic. Don't know if you have seen this in yours.
Hope the info helps. I'll post back when I get the thing fixed and let you know what it was.
Mine had been doing this thing where it would change to half power and the D4 light would flash on me. I could still drive it, but then it quit doing that about 5 months ago. It did it again when I took it to the mechanic. Don't know if you have seen this in yours.
Hope the info helps. I'll post back when I get the thing fixed and let you know what it was.
Last edited by lingochad; Oct 8, 2012 at 05:39 AM.
Just a quick update in case someone is watching the thread looking for answers. The mechanic has spent more hours than I care to think about checking wiring on my car. He finally found that it is my ECM that has a couple of blown capacitors in it. I have not seen it, but I trust him. So I am looking for another one. He did say that there could be something else, but he is sure that my ECM is bad, so that is where we start.
He can't find one from his trusted suppliers, so I am looking myself. My part number is 37820-P1E-A50. Does anyone know if it matters if I put one in that ends in P1E-A01? And should I expect this thing to need to be reprogrammed?
Thanks!
He can't find one from his trusted suppliers, so I am looking myself. My part number is 37820-P1E-A50. Does anyone know if it matters if I put one in that ends in P1E-A01? And should I expect this thing to need to be reprogrammed?
Thanks!
Well, I was waiting to see what happened when I got this used ECU in to report back. It took forever for the thing to come, but that is a separate issue. It finally did and I was quite surprised to find that it fixed all the problems described above. I have never been so surprised and pleased at a car repair. I have messed with this thing for so long. I will report back if any of the problems turn out to have not gone away, but for now, I have my car back.
As I mentioned above, my mechanic could not find an ECU from his trusted sources, so I went looking myself. I ended up getting one off Ebay for $83. If you can get one that cheaply, then I say go for it. It was certainly worth it for me.
As I mentioned above, my mechanic could not find an ECU from his trusted sources, so I went looking myself. I ended up getting one off Ebay for $83. If you can get one that cheaply, then I say go for it. It was certainly worth it for me.
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