92' civic/d15z1 block/00 y8 head - can't rev past 4,200 rpm
I have a 92' civic with a d15z1 w/ y8 (2000) head, and i can't rev it past 4,200 rpm, The check engine light doesn't come on when you drive it normal but once i start driving aggresive till 4k rpm it shows up but when i turn it off and turn it back on the check engine light goes away, i found out its a CODE 22, but have no idea what to do, i looked it up and it says its the VTECH Pressure switch but i dont know what to do about it, can anybody lend me a hand and help me out?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 5
From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
What ecu do you have? Cali model? More info about your set up is really needed to help you out. I don't understand the y8 head? Did you do that yourself or did you buy like that? Z1 motors are meant to be for fuel economy not for aggressive driving. So I have a feeling that the stock z1 ecu is still being used and would be the problem.
FYI- Vtech is a company that produces electronics for kids
FYI- Vtech is a company that produces electronics for kids
Im not too sure on what ecu it has i barely bought it a week ago, the engine stuff it has is a "mini swap" , it drives fine until i get to the 4k rpms do you think replacing the Vtech oil pressure switch has anything to do with tht? because it sputters and doesnt wanna go past 4k...
Thread titles MUST summarize the tech problem so that members browsing titles can easily understand the problem without reading the post -- Title edited.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 5
From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
Im not too sure on what ecu it has i barely bought it a week ago, the engine stuff it has is a "mini swap" , it drives fine until i get to the 4k rpms do you think replacing the Vtech oil pressure switch has anything to do with tht? because it sputters and doesnt wanna go past 4k...
I am afraid you got ripped off. I am willing to bet your problem is the ecu. A mini me swap is when one takes a non vtec motor and installs a v-tec head for added performance. The z1 is already a v-tec motor. It is the only v-tec that is not performance oriented but made for fuel economy other than the HX model found on ek's. Therefore there is no reason to try to add performance to a z1. Should have got a car with a different motor if you were looking for performance.
Look and see what ecu you are running first and take pics.
Any CELs? Are your sensors all working?
Either way, if it's really a Y8 head, that's a poor combination since the pistons in the Z1 motor will make it very low compression. There has been talk about rods being weaker than others, though I believe someone posted they're actually stronger. The good part, is the block is the same as the D16Z6, so you could put a Z6 crank, pistons and rods in and have the best 1.6L single cam combination.
Either way, if it's really a Y8 head, that's a poor combination since the pistons in the Z1 motor will make it very low compression. There has been talk about rods being weaker than others, though I believe someone posted they're actually stronger. The good part, is the block is the same as the D16Z6, so you could put a Z6 crank, pistons and rods in and have the best 1.6L single cam combination.
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If you have a cel for code 22, and want it to go away...do exactly what i said in the 1st post. Whats the problem? Is it too hard, or what?
I have fixed the problem, i replaced the vtec pressure oil switch and it runs good now, except for my new problem that it'll back fire on me and sometimes a mild amount of smoke will pop up. How do you post pictures on this thread so you can see?, it also has a AEM Cold air intake and a 5migen exhuast, im thinking maybe the manifold exhaust thing is probably clogged, therefore im thinking of gettting headers?
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