This all started back a year ago I put a new CC 6 puck clutch in. Under WOT 2nd and 4th wont let you go in but if you keep the revs down it goes in like butter. Its been getting a little worse as time goes on. I figure its the syncros and who knows what else. Should I keep running it? My other thought this wasn't an issue with the old full faced clutch, I have read posts after the fact that CC have a different install height and possibly not releasing fully.

 

You need to go over your install and make sure that the clutch is operating properly. A clutch that is not working properly will lock you out of gear at high RPMs. A worn transmission will also do the same. So I would go through the easiest items first before condemning the trans as bad. CC has had a few issues in the past(just like any company) and you may have a defective clutch. If so..contact them. I personally wouldn't have waited this long. Keep us posted on what you find and good luck

 

weird, another CC issue.

 

Now, I'm not going to say his exact clutch isn't giving him an issue, but read his post:

To me, that's not enough description as to if it started THE second he put the 6-puck in. But it's gotten worse since, and that the clutch change just happened to COINCIDE with the issue at hand. You're talking about USED transmissions being used relatively hard, and I know exactly what the wear rates (~.0005" per 1000 miles) on stock brass synchros look like on just daily driving - let alone abusive situations which exhaust them even more quickly.

I've had nothing but fantastic results from Competition 6-pucks and will continue to use them. So it's a bit premature to start the CC fear mongering in this case until you can oversee installation methods of the clutch, as well as the condition of the 2nd and 4th synchros and condition of the clutch disc/pressure plate.

In my professional opinion, the fact that he has no issue with 3rd is enough for me to believe it's the transmission and not the clutch. Clutch issues rarely isolate individual gears. They make it difficult for all. This may not be synchro ring failure since it's not grinding, but the sleeves may be flattened enough on 2nd and 4th to make it incredibly hard for the gears to engage at speed despite the synchro ring doing work to try.

 

Yes...very odd that there is no problem with 3rd! LOL Good point.

I suggest he go over his install and give us a little more information to go off of. In auto repair..the COINCIDE seems to always happen and make diagnosis more difficult. I personally have not had an issue with a CC clutch either but, know in the past there were some spot issues. But, as I mentioned. No company is perfect and it might not even be the problem to begin with.

 

Cc 6 puck on my itr trans, works fantastic even w/ full throttle shifts. Now i dont care for low rpm manners of it but hay there has to be some trade off with upgraded clutches. I would use another cc in sec most likely unless i go turbo prob go to a 4 puck or full faced disk

 

What more info do you need? Also what do you mean go over my install what should I check?
I didn't mention before but this is the second clutch from CC, the first one less than a month after the install and maybe 2000 miles the spring warped; the pedal has pulsation in it. With that clutch it would lock me out too and I ended up grinding 2nd real bad at the track. I think I did some damage not too sure. This has been one of many problems I have with my build and its been really frustrating dealing with tons of different companies ad no strait answers. This is why I have ignored it. This new clutch if I adjust the pedal so it engages in the middle of the travel it grinds all the time, so I kept adjusting it till it stopped grinding except now I get only at wot. If I turn it anymore the pin will come out of the adjuster so I am at the limit. I was told by CC that something in the car was causing it so I got a new master and slave cylinder from Honda with a new shift fork too.
One other really weird thing, the clutch randomly makes a rubbing sorta sound if I let off the clutch and re engage it mostly goes away or after a hard run its normally really smooth. I can feel a slight pulsation in the pedal when it does that too. The thought crossed my mind that the throw out bearing binding on the transmission possibly?
Thanks for the help this far!

 

What I mean by "overseeing installation method" is that a lot of people don't install things 100% correctly, and lack attention to detail. I'm not saying you did, but that's something that, over the internet, we cannot help diagnose if it's something related to install - and these can include debris on the input shaft, small nicks on the block not allowing the transmission to mount 100% flush, etc.

NOW you mention another clutch. Again, this is why I said more information is needed. You left things out. When it comes to issues like this, ALL info is required.

And with you having TWO clutches basically do the same thing, I'm not sure this points toward the clutch being at fault. The problems per million of clutches isn't THAT bad in the industry that you'll get two in a row causing the same issue. I won't lie - I've definitely had a few issues with Competition Clutches over the years, but most of those were with CC Stage 2s on B-series and CC Stage 4s on K-series. I've also personally owned two Stage 4s on my own 400 whp car that sees track action. First one lasted 35,000 miles. The current one is on 10,000+ and counting. Neither caused any shifting issues.

Clutch spring failure is often caused by clutch misalignment, btw. Not always, but often.

 

The clutch I took out was fine just a stage two forget the brand I think it was act and was slipping with anything over 380hp so if I would shift fast it would just slip. It never had any hint of trouble. I went from working great to the problems noted above.
There is no gap between the transmission and engine.
There are no nicks on the input shaft. I cleaned and regreased every time it was out.
The clutch disk slid like butter on it I tested this.
New 12lb billet CC flywheel with new pilot bearing.
New throwout bearing from Honda, regreased where the throwout bearing slides with honda grease too I did notice this had slight burs on it and worried me a bit. I was not sure if it was replaceable.

I just wanted to add I am human and do make mistakes but I have installed so many clutches over the years and this is only problem I have ever had. I installed one in a d16y8 3 years ago, mustang 4.6, a bunch of various VW's, and f150 are some off the top of my head. I am by no means a novice this is my first high horsepower Honda though. My intuition tells me I damaged the trany and this clutch is messing up some too. I guess when the time comes I will probably do some more research into twin disks for the full face and get away from this puck crap.