I'm having a problem with my timing. I'll set it, and it runs good but then it'll start running like crap. I'll check the timing and it'll be off. The timing belt and water pump look to be fairly new. I don't think it's skipping a tooth.

Is there a way to test the advance/ retard mechanism?

Any other suggestions on what could be throwing off my timing?

Another thing. In the Chiltons it says to check timing with vac lines attached, then in the next paragraph it says to unhook and plug them???? When I unhook and plug them, it shows the timing so far off no amount of adjusting would make a difference. When I check it with the vac lines attached, it appears to be normal. I'm assuming you leave them attached.

If my advance is bad, anyone know where to get one? Can't find one at the junk yards.

 

yes, do the timing with the vac attached 20ish. Do you have a dual timing advance mechanism? I always forget which one is the extra advance when cold, but disconnect at the distributor and plug the hose.

Oreillys or your local parts store should carry it $$$. It is cheaper to get a whole new distributor than the canister only $210, plus core.

You can test your canister to see if it is holding vacuum with a hand held vacuum pump, or dismantle and clean / lubricate if the advance plate is binding.

 

Yeah, mine has two hoses. How do I know which one does what? I thought one was to advance and the other to retard. Are you saying when I check the timing I should have one disconnected and plugged? I do make sure the idle is between 650 and 750 rpm.

What would I use to lubricate or clean the plate? And how would I go about it? I haven't been inside it.

And would this be causing my problem, or could I have something more serious going on maybe?

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Edit: I just found the advance mechanism for $56 here..http://mybaycarparts.com/Standard-Mo...-P2662195.aspx
And there are distributors w/ advance for under $100 on line too.

 

I checked the Honda TSM, the outside hose is the extra advance for cold start.

It gives you an extra 4 degrees added to the timing.

I was suggesting that you plug it, as it is the fast way to diagnose a problem from either the canister or one of the thermovalves that control the flow of vacuum. The Thermovalves are on the intake manifold in the rear facing the firewall, a real pain to access, disconnecting the hose are more likely to break the nipple of shred a hose that is too short if you are missing 1".

Before buying a new canister or distributor, you need to find out if your canister is holding vacuum or not, hence buying a hand vacuum pump. Pull some vacuum from one end of the canister and see if it is holding 15" of vacuum over a 30sec interval, repeat with the other end (inside or out). If it is holding then you know that your canister is OK.

The whole schematic is here, it is an 87 TSM, but has all the specs since 84-87 were the same basic built, select carb or FI.

http://www.redpepperracing.com/techn...large.png.html

As for the inner parts of the distributor, pulling your cap and rotor check the inside of appearance... dry, burnt or....

http://www.redpepperracing.com/techn...5/abd.png.html

As for the advance, if all is working to specs, leave hoses connected, the red mark should align.... if both hoses are plugged, the timing should be 4degrees as specs in page 25-33 the one after the first page that I listed above.

Again I have plugged the outside hose because my thermovalve for the cold start is not up to specs.... and it is working for me.