97 civic dx what clutch do you recommend?
Juss like the title says, I'm new to the Honda game and juss got a 97 civic dx.. Clutch seems to be slipping a lil so I'm thinking of putting a clutch in soon, i was lookin on eBay but there is just too many to choose from they start at 30 bucks and go up from there.. what clutch would u guys recommend, lookin to spend about 100 bucks maybe more if I have to... Also can u guys put me up on game about the different stages plz.. Thanks
"Stage" is a worthless number attached to "performance" products to make some seem more valuable than others. It means nothing. Don't even look at it.
What you need to figure out is your current torque, projected torque (if any serious modifications are planned), and what kind of driveability you expect.
Assuming your car is stock, and will remain stock (bolt-ons don't count), the ACT SP-SS or HD-SS, Competition Clutch Gravity 1500, Clutch Masters FX100, Exedy OEM replacement, or Exedy Racing Stage 1 clutch kits would all fit what you want, minus the price point. You should expect to pay at least $150 for a decent quality OEM replacement clutch kit, and $250 at a bare minimum for anything relatively performance oriented. Also notice that of those in the list, one is classified as "OEM", four are classified as "Stage 1", and one is classified as "Stage 2", yet the stage 1 and 2 clutches all support roughly the same torque levels.
TL;DR version - Assuming your car is stock, and only sees normal, society-friendly driving, the Exedy OEM kit would be the best pick of the pack, and will cost ~$140. If you like to dig on it every once in a while, step up to the Exedy Racing Stage 1, or the Comp Clutch Grav 1500. If your car has major modifications (turbo, serious internal work), ignore all of this and post your torque numbers.
What you need to figure out is your current torque, projected torque (if any serious modifications are planned), and what kind of driveability you expect.
Assuming your car is stock, and will remain stock (bolt-ons don't count), the ACT SP-SS or HD-SS, Competition Clutch Gravity 1500, Clutch Masters FX100, Exedy OEM replacement, or Exedy Racing Stage 1 clutch kits would all fit what you want, minus the price point. You should expect to pay at least $150 for a decent quality OEM replacement clutch kit, and $250 at a bare minimum for anything relatively performance oriented. Also notice that of those in the list, one is classified as "OEM", four are classified as "Stage 1", and one is classified as "Stage 2", yet the stage 1 and 2 clutches all support roughly the same torque levels.
TL;DR version - Assuming your car is stock, and only sees normal, society-friendly driving, the Exedy OEM kit would be the best pick of the pack, and will cost ~$140. If you like to dig on it every once in a while, step up to the Exedy Racing Stage 1, or the Comp Clutch Grav 1500. If your car has major modifications (turbo, serious internal work), ignore all of this and post your torque numbers.
Yea it's all stock.. I juss have a cold air on it, but I don't plan on doing no major mods to it, it's gonna be my daily... But every once in a while I like to dig on it a bit do ima prolly go with the exedy u said, ima look around on eBay for one..
http://www.clutchflywheel.com
When I was looking for clutches, they consistently had the best price, even over eBay. There's a reason stuff is cheap on eBay - don't trust it for critical engine/transmission/electrical components.
When I was looking for clutches, they consistently had the best price, even over eBay. There's a reason stuff is cheap on eBay - don't trust it for critical engine/transmission/electrical components.
One more thing, when buyin a clutch do I need juss the clutch? Or do I need the whole kit like the plate and flywheel? I'm lookin to do oe replacement
You don't need to buy a new flywheel, but you DO need to remove your flywheel and have a machine shop machine it. You should also consider getting new flywheel and pressure plate bolts (cheap insurance). You should replace the throwout bearing, since you'll be in there anyway. You should replace the pressure plate, but it isn't 100% necessary unless yours is bent. Ultimately, the only thing that absolutely must be replaced is the clutch itself, but everything else down there should be replaced as well, and the flywheel should at least be machined.
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Coo, yea ima machine the flywheel for sure, I asked cuz I seem some clutch kits came with one, they claim that its light weight, don't know if that's really gonna be worth it or not and if ima feel the difference
Exedy OE Spec.
Good luck find a good clutch for $100. You may or may not need to replace the flywheel.
I would reccomend removing it and taking to a machine shop to be resurfaced. They will be able to tell you if you need to replace it, or your good to go.
You "don't" need to resurface it, but it's a good idea.
Good luck find a good clutch for $100. You may or may not need to replace the flywheel.
I would reccomend removing it and taking to a machine shop to be resurfaced. They will be able to tell you if you need to replace it, or your good to go.
You "don't" need to resurface it, but it's a good idea.
You might notice a difference while sitting at a traffic light/in a parking space free revving, but you won't notice any significant difference in acceleration. You'll also notice a funky idle. Don't bother with a flywheel.
Not resurfacing a flywheel during a clutch job is just lazy. The clutch and flywheel need a chance to mate properly - that's why you follow break-in procedures. Trying to seat a brand new clutch to a worn out flywheel is just begging for problems.
Not resurfacing a flywheel during a clutch job is just lazy. The clutch and flywheel need a chance to mate properly - that's why you follow break-in procedures. Trying to seat a brand new clutch to a worn out flywheel is just begging for problems.
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bigfinderman
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Mar 15, 2012 03:53 AM




