Little Background: I have a 2000 Civic Si with a 1994 B18C GSR with JRSC (Race Kit plus LHT intercooler & MVM Stepper) OBD1 with HondataS300. RC440s, Walbro fuel pump, Type R header, WS2 2.5" exhaust. Cusco catch can. A/C & P/S
I recently added a ITR Exhaust cam w/dual springs & LHT intercooler before having it "re-tuned" since I got the motor swap from a friend that had it in a 94 del sol.
Upon Dyno 6 pulls, I started seeing "blow by" coming from my V/C.
We ran a compression test to find that #1 - 110psi the rest were in the 230s.
Pulled it home and did a leak test. #1 - 90% while others were 5-10%. I could hear air coming through the block.
Tore it down and found two fine cracks in the ringlands on #1 but cylinder walls look good.
Everything looks GSR but has P72-00 pistons. I will post pics when I get off work.

What to do from here?
Since I have it a part, I figure I would replace all 4 pistons and rings plus hone the cylinders.
Thanks in advance

 

Pics- Have more if needed

 

I have decided to replace the hard to find P72-00 with the P73-A0 since they are supposedly the same but with moly coated skirts.
I will be replacing rod bearings while I have it apart.
Next set of questions:
When is it recommended to use ARP rod studs, ARP flywheel & pressure plate bolts, and a block guard?
When I dyno'd the setup, I was around 250 whp & 190tq.
I am also looking into a remote oil filter kit and possibly changing the water pipe (maybe Tstat hosing for heater hose?) so I can delete the GSR oil cooler. Any thoughts?
Space is limited back there when the JRSC is on.

 

If you can spare the extra expense look into Mahle pistons, they allow you to run tighter P2W clearances than a wiseco forged pistons and will not fail quite as easily as the OE cast pistons.

 

I personally would upgrade to some 4032 (high silicon) forged pistons. They will have stock like characteristics and provide excellent protection for your setup. Cracked ring lands are just a disaster waiting to happen on any forced fed cast piston engine. Most of the Honda crowd thinks you have to have 2618 (low silicon) pistons or your engine will blow. The truth is the 4032 can handle quite a bit of power but can't handle detonation like the 2618.

Regardless of your choice, it sounds like the tuner may not fully understand what is going on. 6 dyno pulls and such a minor change, then you lose your engine?

As far as the coolant pipe, it would be much easier to have the ports cut off and welded shut.

 

Echo?

 

Im pretty sure you can run an LS coolant pipe to get rid of the extra ports.

 

OBD-2 GSR doesn't have an oil cooler.

 

I wasn't sure if I should upgrade to forged running 11psi. I was like the P73-00 kin order to avoid any compression ratio change Like to stay in the 10.6-10.9 range or weight difference of aftermarket pistons. I like OEM but if they will tend to crack. I will look into a Mahle set.

Any input on ARP products? It has ARP headstuds already.

As far as the water pipe, the problem I run into as far as welding or changing to a OBD1 or LS pipe is the heater core supply line. I think my Civic originally came from the Tstat housing. I made a S pipe to go from the Driver side to the heater core in the middle.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

No, not at all. I gave him a solid foundation to base a decision on and not just some "fanboy" approach to random products. Regardless, thank you for letting me know you read my posts.

 

 

I was in luck and a friend was installing a 96 B18C in a del sol so we swapped pipes.
Heater core line is still there but it helped out drastically.

Follow up questions.
Can one remove the head with the supercharger still on it in a 2000 civic Si? I know its a silly shortcut question but I had a brain fart and have to take it off again. I removed everything on a del sol before but not sure on the Si. Think the problem will be the ARP headstuds and Brake master cylinder interference.

How many times can you reuse ARP headstuds?

 

Why take the shortcut? I bet it will take longer in the end.

 

Besides the 20min hondabond curing time and risk of dropping a sc bolt in the intake. I like the idea of knowing the manifold is tight to the head. But you are prolly right about taking longer. Then there is a possibility of messing up the headgasket when reinstalling.

 

Supertech pistons if you're on a budget, they are cheap, and wont expand quite as much, basically everything neversatisfied talked about..

On that setup, stock like p2w should be fine.

 

ive taken the head off my friend b16 in an Ek hatch with a JRSC still attached one of the bolts holding it to the head was rounded and we could not get it off while it was in the car so its possible, not sure if its faster because we originally tried to remove the JRSC

 

Don't install a block guard

 

I went with stock 2000 Integra Type R pistons. didn't want to change the compression. same as the JDM B18C but has moly coated piston skirts.
Everything is back together but I have to take the head back off due to a brain fart.

 

Just finished removing the head least night. I believe it is possible to do it when you take the head studs out and have a engine hoist or a friend help you pull it up and forward. But I didn't have either and I didn't want to risk messing up the headgasket during installation so I separated the supercharger from the manifold.

 

Motor is finished. Made 272hp/192tq. will post pics eventually*

 

how close did you go with the RC440 injection rate
they just sound a bit small at that level on a B18
im using 550 @14psi on a B16B

 

Static fuel pressures were really high... so there was still some duty-cycle left.