11:1 CR can handle JRSC??
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11:1 CR can handle JRSC??
well i decided to turn my all motor around and put a jrsc on it. right now im running a gsr bottom with pr3 pistons and itr head, CR at 11:1. i was wondering if anyone has this high compression with a jrsc? i just bought the sc today and plan on running 8 psi. any help would be apprecaited.
#2
Re: 11:1 CR can handle JRSC?? (Krucial_Ek9)
you could potentially but it requires probably much more precise tuning with more dyno time.
atleast see if you cant throw in a slightly bigger headgasket to help out, if not, just dont beat the **** out of it at high revs and make sure its done right
keep us posted
atleast see if you cant throw in a slightly bigger headgasket to help out, if not, just dont beat the **** out of it at high revs and make sure its done right
keep us posted
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^^ thanks for your input, ya i was doing some research and thats the only answer i saw anyone reply with. good tuning, im changing out my bc3 cams today and install gsr intake/ctr exhaust cam. after that ima try to get the jrsc on and go from there.
Modified by Krucial_Ek9 at 8:18 AM 2/15/2007
Modified by Krucial_Ek9 at 8:18 AM 2/15/2007
#4
just take it easy with it, pay the extra $$ to have someone do it right instead of trying to have some friends figure it out or do a deal for you.
there should be lots of sc posts around here dealing with this stuff?
there should be lots of sc posts around here dealing with this stuff?
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Re: (Dunn@ImportTurboSolutions)
I had a PR3 piston, b18A block and GSR head that was milled and ran 11lbs ona JRSC w/ water injetion and uberdata for like 1 1/2 years w/o ANY problems, except for tires.lol
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^^ wow, thanks that makes me feel a lot better. LOL ya i guess ima try out the setup and see how it does at 8 lbs with hondata. just kinda scared how my temp. going to be
#7
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GOOD TUNING!!!!!
look at Evans Tuning if you're close enough...
they're more than a few states away for me but I'm going to be making the trip this season (hopefully)
Evans
look at Evans Tuning if you're close enough...
they're more than a few states away for me but I'm going to be making the trip this season (hopefully)
Evans
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#8
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ya i've already found a great tuner, just trying to find someone with a similar setup if not what parts i need in order to make my setup reliable and make decent power
#9
Re: (Krucial_Ek9)
I've been running an 8.5 PSI JSRC on a B16 for several months now without any trouble. I have a Kami header, 225 LPH fuel pump, and RC 550 injectors, and BPR7E Plugs gapped at .30, all on a bone stock block and head - Oh, and I'm using an AEM first gen CAI. I'm using Hondata S300 EMS, a PLX Wideband, a Gtec Pro and a Redline Digital EGT on #3 for tuning, and here is what I've discovered:
Everyone is worried about INTAKE temps on the JRSC, but when you look at EGTs something surprising happens, at least on my set-up:
They go DOWN under boost. A lot. Under crusie conditions I see EGTs in the 1350 to 1400 range. My wideband shows Stochiometric AFRs around 14.7 in closed loop in top gear under such conditions.
When I downshift to say 3rd, and nail it, AFRs drop to 12.5 or so, and EGT's drop to 1150 - 1250, and then very slowly climb back to around 1300 if I stay on it for like 10 seconds or so.
I data log my EMS, and know that under hard boost conditions at 8.5 PSI, intake temps rise about 50 degrees. What I think is happening is that the extra fuel more than compensates for the added intake heat under boost, dropping EGT's and thus combustion temps.
With 105 race gas, I was able to advance timing several degrees and it kept making power until about 26.5 degrees BTDC @ 12 psi @ 8000rpm (on the timing chart) and I'm running a .75 degree retard per pound of boost. I advanced the timing way past that without detonation (with the race gas) but it stopped making power, so I retarded it back to the sweet spot.
Then, since the EGT's looked so good, I tried leaning the mixture to see if I could make more power. WOW - Going from 12.5:1 to 13:1 saw an almost 10 HP gain in NET power on the Gtec. Still no detonation, and still pretty low EGTs
I got scared at this point and left the AFR's at 13:1 under boost, did several more runs, checked the plugs, EGT's, AFR's, and power, and everything looked good.
For 91 crap gas and daily driving, I run 12.5:1 AFR, and about 3 degrees less advance.
I'd say that with the right EMS, tuning, and fuel, you could probably run even more compression without a problem.
Modified by econorocket at 2:45 PM 2/15/2007
Everyone is worried about INTAKE temps on the JRSC, but when you look at EGTs something surprising happens, at least on my set-up:
They go DOWN under boost. A lot. Under crusie conditions I see EGTs in the 1350 to 1400 range. My wideband shows Stochiometric AFRs around 14.7 in closed loop in top gear under such conditions.
When I downshift to say 3rd, and nail it, AFRs drop to 12.5 or so, and EGT's drop to 1150 - 1250, and then very slowly climb back to around 1300 if I stay on it for like 10 seconds or so.
I data log my EMS, and know that under hard boost conditions at 8.5 PSI, intake temps rise about 50 degrees. What I think is happening is that the extra fuel more than compensates for the added intake heat under boost, dropping EGT's and thus combustion temps.
With 105 race gas, I was able to advance timing several degrees and it kept making power until about 26.5 degrees BTDC @ 12 psi @ 8000rpm (on the timing chart) and I'm running a .75 degree retard per pound of boost. I advanced the timing way past that without detonation (with the race gas) but it stopped making power, so I retarded it back to the sweet spot.
Then, since the EGT's looked so good, I tried leaning the mixture to see if I could make more power. WOW - Going from 12.5:1 to 13:1 saw an almost 10 HP gain in NET power on the Gtec. Still no detonation, and still pretty low EGTs
I got scared at this point and left the AFR's at 13:1 under boost, did several more runs, checked the plugs, EGT's, AFR's, and power, and everything looked good.
For 91 crap gas and daily driving, I run 12.5:1 AFR, and about 3 degrees less advance.
I'd say that with the right EMS, tuning, and fuel, you could probably run even more compression without a problem.
Modified by econorocket at 2:45 PM 2/15/2007
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^^ hey thanks for your input, ima use a hondata s200 and get a bigger radiator and thermostat to lower temp. if that dont help as much ill probably look at the oil cooler kit
#11
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Re: (Krucial_Ek9)
I have ran 12-1 with a supercharger in the past, it can be done but it takes some tuning, and it's stil on the adge. 11-1 is fine, I would have the tuning done by someone with knowledge of supercharger tuning .
#12
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Re: (CRVRX)
I ran a little over 12:1 with a JRSC, but it was knock-limited on pump gas, so no reason to go that high. My new motor is 11:1, should make the same power or better.
#13
Re: (Krucial_Ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Krucial_Ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ hey thanks for your input, ima use a hondata s200 and get a bigger radiator and thermostat to lower temp. if that dont help as much ill probably look at the oil cooler kit</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't get a low temp thermostat - it will screw up your idle and give you other problems. The radiator cant hurt I suppose, but unless you are going to be flogging it on a racetrack in hot weather - and I mean lapping it, not 1/4 mile passes, it's not really needed. Oil coolers are good for tracks as well, but be aware that you will lose some oil pressure due to pumping and frictional losses through the cooler. Before investing in that, get a 4 channel datalogging pyrometer gauge, like the redline one, and log your oil and water temps. I got a huge reduction in water temps (20 degrees +) by draining the antifreeze and running "water wetter" and pure water instead. I've run in the high desert at willow springs (big track) with a stock radiator, a supercharger, and no oil cooler without any problems, and it was 115 degrees in the shade that day.
(saw 180 degree intake temps though....and I was running 100 octane race gas, with the Hondata set to pull 5 degrees of timing when it saw 170 degree air)
The two big things I've done are the Hondata intake manifold gasket, and a CAI for heat soak. The CAI dropped the intake temps about 50 degrees. I think it's a must on a JRSC, even if it costs you a little throttle response.
I'm an autocross nut, so my next little mod is going to be a Cryo2 system for the intake. Should drop temps another 50 degrees or so - just like an intercooler, but no loss of HP. It should work great for autocross, since I'm only at WOT for about 15 seconds per run. I'm also going to be installing adjustable cam gears soon as well. When I get it all together, I'll do a detailed post on the whole build for the forum.
Oh yea - and sell the S200, and get an S300. Save up and buy a laptop and a PLX wide band, and the Hartman book on EMS tuning. Read up and tune it yourself - I've used two highly regarded tuners in the past, and without going into details, they both sucked. You can learn to do it yourself, and the money you save will pay for your equipment. Just be consevative at first....Use an MMT additive like Torco or race gas while pushing the envelope to avoid detonation.
Don't get a low temp thermostat - it will screw up your idle and give you other problems. The radiator cant hurt I suppose, but unless you are going to be flogging it on a racetrack in hot weather - and I mean lapping it, not 1/4 mile passes, it's not really needed. Oil coolers are good for tracks as well, but be aware that you will lose some oil pressure due to pumping and frictional losses through the cooler. Before investing in that, get a 4 channel datalogging pyrometer gauge, like the redline one, and log your oil and water temps. I got a huge reduction in water temps (20 degrees +) by draining the antifreeze and running "water wetter" and pure water instead. I've run in the high desert at willow springs (big track) with a stock radiator, a supercharger, and no oil cooler without any problems, and it was 115 degrees in the shade that day.
(saw 180 degree intake temps though....and I was running 100 octane race gas, with the Hondata set to pull 5 degrees of timing when it saw 170 degree air)
The two big things I've done are the Hondata intake manifold gasket, and a CAI for heat soak. The CAI dropped the intake temps about 50 degrees. I think it's a must on a JRSC, even if it costs you a little throttle response.
I'm an autocross nut, so my next little mod is going to be a Cryo2 system for the intake. Should drop temps another 50 degrees or so - just like an intercooler, but no loss of HP. It should work great for autocross, since I'm only at WOT for about 15 seconds per run. I'm also going to be installing adjustable cam gears soon as well. When I get it all together, I'll do a detailed post on the whole build for the forum.
Oh yea - and sell the S200, and get an S300. Save up and buy a laptop and a PLX wide band, and the Hartman book on EMS tuning. Read up and tune it yourself - I've used two highly regarded tuners in the past, and without going into details, they both sucked. You can learn to do it yourself, and the money you save will pay for your equipment. Just be consevative at first....Use an MMT additive like Torco or race gas while pushing the envelope to avoid detonation.
#14
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hey, so stock radiator will be fine? im only going to push 8 lbs, im just more scared of blowing up my motor and willing to invest in whatever to prevent that. oh and i was looking forward for autocross or just street runs but i am the type of person who runs nonstop LOL i've been told to just let the motor cool down after a run or 2.
#15
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Re: (Krucial_Ek9)
Stock radiator should be fine for street/autox with the power that you'll be making. I didn't need an aftermarket radiator until I was over 400 WHP on a road course.
#17
Re: (Krucial_Ek9)
Yea -
Buy the basic tuning stuff, (Wideband, EMS, min.) read up on it, be conservative and no worries. Just be aware that the JRSC rquires a good deal of tweaking to set-up reliably. Belts and pullies are an issue, and get RC injectors 550's minimum, and a good fuel pump - my stock one started maxing out at 8 PSI.
Also - be sure to use locktite RED and 15 lbs of torque on those internal blower mounting bolts. They can and will come loose if you don't, and get sucked into your blower, and will sieze it.
Go ahead, ask me how I know this
Buy the basic tuning stuff, (Wideband, EMS, min.) read up on it, be conservative and no worries. Just be aware that the JRSC rquires a good deal of tweaking to set-up reliably. Belts and pullies are an issue, and get RC injectors 550's minimum, and a good fuel pump - my stock one started maxing out at 8 PSI.
Also - be sure to use locktite RED and 15 lbs of torque on those internal blower mounting bolts. They can and will come loose if you don't, and get sucked into your blower, and will sieze it.
Go ahead, ask me how I know this
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