Car starts, then dies Help!!!
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From: Lafayette, Indiana, U.S.
Alright, I've got a 2000 Civic Ex with a LS/Vtec. GSR head, Stock engine harness, OBD2 LS dizzy, OBD2b to OBD1 ecu conversion harness, chipped p28. I've had the car over a month now and it's started right up everytime...until today.
Keep in mind prior to this situation I'm about to explain, I've started and driven the car multiple times this same day.
Go to start the car like normal, cranks longer than usual so I stop. Attempt to start it again and it starts right up like normal but then dies maybe 5 seconds later. And it doesnt stumble when it dies, it just dies like I turned the key off.
So I attempt to start it again and it starts right up but dies again. And it only stays running maybe 3-4 seconds this time. Continue this trend a couple more times, starts up then dies a coupe seconds later, starts up then instantly dies. Then it's too the point where it just cranks and cranks and cranks.
So I let the car sit for a few minutes and the cycle starts all over again. I did this cycle 3-4 times. What is going on?! Fuel pump primes everytime, no CELs, I'm at least getting spark when it does start and run. Something doesn't make sense. Any help would be appreciated!!
Keep in mind prior to this situation I'm about to explain, I've started and driven the car multiple times this same day.
Go to start the car like normal, cranks longer than usual so I stop. Attempt to start it again and it starts right up like normal but then dies maybe 5 seconds later. And it doesnt stumble when it dies, it just dies like I turned the key off.
So I attempt to start it again and it starts right up but dies again. And it only stays running maybe 3-4 seconds this time. Continue this trend a couple more times, starts up then dies a coupe seconds later, starts up then instantly dies. Then it's too the point where it just cranks and cranks and cranks.
So I let the car sit for a few minutes and the cycle starts all over again. I did this cycle 3-4 times. What is going on?! Fuel pump primes everytime, no CELs, I'm at least getting spark when it does start and run. Something doesn't make sense. Any help would be appreciated!!
Last edited by DuecedSol; Jul 23, 2012 at 08:44 AM.
I would start off by verifying that A) you have bright white spark at all four plugs, and B) you have proper fuel pressure for the motor, which I believe is 40-44PSI (I could be wrong, you should check the FSM for testing procedure and specs).
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Ignition doesn't seem to be the problem, at least doesn't make sense why it would be. But fuel pressure maybe, either the pump is dying or fuel filter is clogged...
Doesn't hurt to test everything, just to be sure. Both tests are simple, 10 minute, in your drive way tests.
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Ive got a walbro 255 just sitting in my apt, perfect excuse to throw it in. Thanks!!
Last edited by DuecedSol; Jul 23, 2012 at 06:06 AM.
Thread Starter
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So got the walbro to put in, im thinking maybe fuel filter as well (shell has 186k and it looks like its the stock one), then pull apart the distributer...also been reading some saying it could be the alternator?!
Last edited by DuecedSol; Jul 23, 2012 at 06:28 AM.
Thread Starter
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Working Walbro 255 installed, fuel pump ruled out.
Did the main relay click test, clicking like it should and fuel pump primes everytime.
Pulled the plugs after cranking it a few times, they had fuel on them so I'm getting fuel.
Checked for spark, pretty sure I have none....
Did the main relay click test, clicking like it should and fuel pump primes everytime.
Pulled the plugs after cranking it a few times, they had fuel on them so I'm getting fuel.
Checked for spark, pretty sure I have none....
This^ is of no value whatsoever. The only meaningful tests are those done when the engine won't start.
Don't guess. Figure out definitively whether or not there is spark.
If there's no spark, check whether the timing belt snapped.
Also test the mechanical timing and then compression test the cylinders.
Start gathering useful diagnostic information rather than throwing parts at your car.
Don't guess. Figure out definitively whether or not there is spark.
If there's no spark, check whether the timing belt snapped.
Also test the mechanical timing and then compression test the cylinders.
Start gathering useful diagnostic information rather than throwing parts at your car.
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From: Lafayette, Indiana, U.S.
Don't guess. Figure out definitively whether or not there is spark.
If there's no spark, check whether the timing belt snapped.
Also test the mechanical timing and then compression test the cylinders.
Start gathering useful diagnostic information rather than throwing parts at your car.
If there's no spark, check whether the timing belt snapped.
Also test the mechanical timing and then compression test the cylinders.
Start gathering useful diagnostic information rather than throwing parts at your car.
Im not "throwing" parts at my car. I had the 255 just sitting in its box so I just put that in to rule out the fuel pump. It was going in the car anyway.
Mechanical timing is spot on.
Useful Diagnostic Info as stated above: Fuel pump replaced. Main relay operating as it should. Mechanical timing is right on. No CEL. Pulled plugs...thay had fuel on them, cylinders are getting fuel. Tested for spark, no spark with the screwdriver trick, no spark from the spark plug as well. (Yes I grounded the plug in various places, no spark)
Swapping dizzy and plugs tonight.
Not sure on fuel pressure yet. I have no spark as stated above.
Why are you replacing the distributor? That's back to throwing parts at it.
Check whether the coil and ICM get voltage. If not, check fuse 9.
If there's voltage, test the coil and ICM. If one of these is bad, it may be unnecessary to replace the entire distributor.
Check whether the coil and ICM get voltage. If not, check fuse 9.
If there's voltage, test the coil and ICM. If one of these is bad, it may be unnecessary to replace the entire distributor.
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Ok, Found instructions to test the coil and ICM via your FAQ link, now they are for a 96-00 civic but I assume they will work for my obd2 LS dizzy as well correct?
AutoZone will usually test the ICM for you.
Resistance testing the coil
Remove coil from the distributor for tests. Make measurements inside a room at about 70F. Note that Ohm scale recommendations below are irrelevant if you are using an digital multimeter that auto-ranges.
Primary coil resistance
The spec reading for the primary coil reading is very low resistance, so you need to use the lowest Ohm scale (e.g., 20 Ohms) for testing.
Steps:
1) Set multimeter to the lowest Ohm scale.
2) Touch the two meter probes together and note the reading. This reading represents the internal resistance of your multimeter.
3) Measure the primary coil resistance and note it.
4) Subtract the meter internal resistance reading from the primary coil resistance reading to obtain the actual primary coil resistance.
Secondary coil resistance
This is much easier.
Steps:
1) Set multimeter to the 20K (20,000) Ohm scale.
2) Measure the secondary coil resistance.
3) Done
Remove coil from the distributor for tests. Make measurements inside a room at about 70F. Note that Ohm scale recommendations below are irrelevant if you are using an digital multimeter that auto-ranges.
Primary coil resistance
The spec reading for the primary coil reading is very low resistance, so you need to use the lowest Ohm scale (e.g., 20 Ohms) for testing.
Steps:
1) Set multimeter to the lowest Ohm scale.
2) Touch the two meter probes together and note the reading. This reading represents the internal resistance of your multimeter.
3) Measure the primary coil resistance and note it.
4) Subtract the meter internal resistance reading from the primary coil resistance reading to obtain the actual primary coil resistance.
Secondary coil resistance
This is much easier.
Steps:
1) Set multimeter to the 20K (20,000) Ohm scale.
2) Measure the secondary coil resistance.
3) Done
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From: Lafayette, Indiana, U.S.
You say Autozone can check the ICM?
You are saying that you have no spark for sure? Check the ICM and the ECU, see if the signal is being sent. You should be able to test this with a friend using the signal wire and a multimeter, where you check the power on the signal wire while the car is being cranked.
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