Hey guys (and gals?),

I'm stuck trying to get my wagon going again.

It is a '91 RT4WD.

I have a D16Z6 that was running great when pulled not to long ago.

The A6 that was in the chassis before was running fine...just ate oil and eventually the #4 rod bearing.

I'm using the OE harness with OBD1 8+2 pigtails wired in.

ECU is not throwing any codes...and the engine will stay running with throttle input.

The engine is slow to start and if I leave the throttle alone it will die after it struggles during warm-up. Once it warms up, it will die within a sec or two of catching.

If you give it throttle it will rev to the limiter and if you hold an RPM, it sounds bubbly. Not so much like it is missing, just sounds like 4.6 mod engine idling.

Car has little power. I did a pull from 50mph in 3rd and it felt like I was doing 120mph in 5th and trying to accelerate.

Things I have tried:

New spark plugs, new wires, freshly cleaned injectors. Cam and crank are verified in-time as of this afternoon (dead-nuts on both marks).

Also, it doesn't do it every time, but it feels/sounds like there is a pre-ignition when starting.

Any help would be much appreciated. I am not driving the car right now.

 

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me how much mileage does the car have / has it ever been replaced?

 

I read the OP's post earlier and didn't really put any thought into it really so I just ignored it haha... But now that I've read it again and read this post I'd have to agree.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and test that ****.

 

Cluster has ~230,000 miles on it.

Thing that leads me away from the fuel system is:

The car was running just fine not even a month ago. ...and I swapped in a set of injectors I just had cleaned here at work.

Main relay is clicking and the fuel pump is priming and the injectors are injecting fuel.

 

Try cap an rotor maybe?

 

Both are new from Honda.

 

Check Compression, fuel pressure?

 

Retarded the cam 1 tooth in relation to the crank.

I runs much better now and it will hold an idle.

...but the timing light is showing 35-40º advanced and the ECU is throwing a 9 code.

I am using a 2 belt pulley from a CRX since I have converted to a manual rack...but the TDC mark is lining up where it should be.

I don't know how comfortable I feel having to retard the cam...and it still being about 20-25º advanced more than it should be.

I do plan on boosting this once I get it sorted. Thoughts?

 

I'd still get a fuel pressure gauge and check it.

 

Fuel pressure is solid.

Tried a "known" good distributor last night and it is doing the same thing the other distributor is doing.

Put the cam and crank back in time and retarded the distributor beyond the holes and tightened it down with the bolts. It was now at 20° advanced...and running better than it has since this engine has fired in my wagon's bay.

This is a stock Z6. It hasn't been opened beyond the timing covers. The cam is not broken.

How can it be that far off? I suspect the distributor...but this is one of the strangest things I've encountered since I started playing with Hondas.

 

Got a new distributor from Rywire! Thanks Ryan and Peter.

Engine fired right up and it is now running as it should...with the cam and crank in-time.

Working A/C is next, 111° is too damn hot! Putting on my 15g is after that.

 

Now it's time to fix the overheating inside the cabin issues.

A/C parts ordered.

 

You tried 2 different dizzies and had the same issue? Then bought a 3rd and the problem went away?

That's crazy bad luck.

 

Tell me about it. lol

This car has been running since March after sitting for almost 3 years. It has already been through 2 A6's. Both oiling issues, and eventual bearing failures (#3 on the 1st and #4 on the 2nd). Well, one was a pull-a-part short block for $40. ...and it smoked like a fumigator since I put it in.