Ugh.
Let me just say again. Ugh.

1. Why can't I use this.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/801902942-...ubber-090-080/

It says on the box, don't use for Honda or VW. Why the Hell not. I mean I can hacksaw off a cm or two if that's the problem.

2. Can I re-tap it? Where do I find nice 5/8 in. tap? Seems uncommon because its super huge, because its a drain. No Home Depot or Sears has any thing near that big. If I re-tap it , am I gonna get a bunch of crap in there? Can't I just fill-er up with 3 qts, undo the nice little piggyback 5/8 drain plug, drain,refill and go on my merry way?

3. Am I gonna break a whole bunch of stupid rusty 6mm studs off in the engine block?

4. Doesn't seem like I need to remove the exhaust to wiggle the pan out the crank pulley side.

Ugh.

 

1. its garbage and unreliable

2. nope

3. you shouldnt, theyre only torqued to minimal inch/lbs

4. yes, you will need to remove the exhaust as the oil pickup sits low and pan doesnt slide.

5. search for another oil pan.. im sure on the marketplace theres gotta be an oil pan for sale..

 

go to sears, they have a socket set made for rounded bolts, but it.. ise it and go to napa and by a new plug

 

If it's a steel pan chances are the bolt stripped and not the hole in the pan. Remove the old drain bolt and look at it and the hole in the pan. If it's aluminum the pan is what's stripped.

Those plugs you linked to are crap and flat out don't work on aluminum pans, they don't go in deep enough and fly out.

 

I used to work for a quick lube have seen those plugs used on a few hondas with no problems, after few years of use the rubber falls apart. Biggest things with those plug is people don't use them right they are ether to scared to tighten them down and they fall out or tighten them too much and they rubber rips. If you do get it, just tighten as tight as you can with your hand rubber should compress against the pan sealing the drain plug area. The reason I believe they say don't use on honda/vw is most of them have a lip around the lug area preventing a good seal, which is not a problem on our year civics

 

If you like to experiment try Northern Tool and Equipment website or store for the right size tap. Make note of the thread size and taper. Get a matching bolt. If the oil pan is steel (test with a magnet) and you're worried about shavings get a small round magnet the size of the internal tip of the bolt (ACE hardware) and JB Weld the magnet to it. Use teflon tape on the bolt threads and Don't overtighten the bolt. Everytime you change your oil thereafter you can look at the collection of shavings your magnet will collect over time. Might be interesting.
If it doesn't work you can always later change the pan.
It's a Honda, experiment and have fun.

 

Can I replace the oil pan bolts with something new? Seems like it's M6. Any special grade or metal to go into the block? Anti-seize or clean and dry?

 

If you're on a budget and/or in a pinch... you can remove the oil pan, drill out the hole, retap it, step up to the next biggest bolt, THOROUGHLY clean out any metal/rubber shavings, and reattach. Then pray it makes an oil-tight seal.

If you want to do things properly, you basically have two options. Get an oil pan from the junkyard that's in good condition (seems like something that would be picked over, though) or simply purchase a new one direct from Honda.