89 wagon with d16a6

I'll begin with the symptoms of my car, followed by the CEL's I'm getting:

-Flooded with gas while driving, so the car basically puttered out and died.

-Heater core hose sprung a leak, not a complete blow up the car got hot, could have fried main relay, pooling too much fuel into the cylinders.

-Only way to start is holding down the gas or pumping it while cranking constantly for about 15 seconds or so. Once it starts, it idles smooth and will accelerate.

-Wetness around injector gaskets.

This is what I get on the ECU:

1.....1.....1.1.1.1.1.1

That could mean one of the following:

-Code 1, followed by code 16.
-Code 20, followed by code 6.

Code 1 - o2 sensor, my CEL in the cluster doesn't stay on, it only comes on when it's supposed to during start up.

Code 16 - injector, but really it's the resistor box or main relay. I'm leaning toward this.

Code 20 - ELD, haven't diagnosed this, but doubt this is my problem since I CAN get it started.

Code 6 - Cooland temp sensor. This could be a possibility, but not sure, will probably replace anyway this weekend.

So that's it, the CEL is confusing that **** out of me.

 

Anyone, 45 views and no responses.

 

bump

 

We don't have carb engines, holding the throttle down won't dump more gas...

Figure out which codes youre throwing before we start throwing ideas. We can only help you after you've correctly helped yourself.

 

These obd0 cars don't have long and short codes like obd1. Did you count the blink when u turn the switch on? 1....1.... Would be code 1 twice wich don't make sense sounds like code 1 and 6

 

Code 18 would be 1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1.
Not 1....1.1.1.1.1.1.1.1. Like your thinking. Just an example.

 

That's the issue, I'm not sure which codes are actually being thrown out. I'm almost certain of the code 6, though.

It doesn't make sense to have two long 1.....1..... and THEN throw out the 1.1.1.1.1.1. if I was throwing out code 1 and code 6, it should alternate like 1.....1.1.1.1.1.1.....1.....1.1.1.1.1.1

The long 1 should never be next to the other long 1.

 

bump

 

bad ecu?

 

You really need to learn how to read the ecu flashes first. Stop guessing.

One long blink is 10, short blinks are one, theres a pause between codes and a pause when it starts over and reads the code cycle again and again.

If you cant figure it out make a video, we can easily count for you.

 

If that's the case, which contradicts what others have said, then I have a code 1, and 16. or a code 20 followed by a 6.

 

hmmmmmmmmmmmm let's solve this once and for all. *goes to my stored pdf's of civic/crx helms manual, flips through pages...* AH here we go. HONDA's way of counting blinks for the codes, right here in black and white:

 

let me ask you this, is the car rt4wd? or was a dpfi-mpfi conversion performed?
If the latter, was it done by you?

are the first two blinks long or short? code 6 would make sense, the sensor is located under the distributor, and the ecu probably defaults to assuming its stupid cold out which in turn floods the engine with gas. you should get those leaky injector seals replaced ASAP could cause a fire

 

Just take a video, we can't help you unless you tell us what the codes are, literally.

It's like going to the dentist saying you have a toothache but you can't tell her which tooth, she's just going to pull all your teeth and give you dentures... haha

So the best we can do at this point is explain how to fix every code....

 

So much FAIL in this thread! DCRB as a senior member you should know that you just posted OBD1 code flashes. LOL maybe a senior moment! OBD0 as this wagon should have flashing a ECM LED (not dashlight) has cumulative short flashes that are added up - NO long flashes for units of ten!!!

 

Alright some updates...

Replaced main relay, ELD, and dist cap. Still no spark. I confirmed that my fuel pump primes, spark plugs flooded with gas, no spark when checking while cranking.

I have no CEL anymore, I'm leaning towards dist.

Its the awd, stock with d16a6. There was no conversion from dpfi since the car was built as mpfi.

 

More news, I have spark! I just don't think my injectors are firing. I reset the each by pulling the fuse so I have no cel to go by. I've narrowed down every possibility and the only thing left is the piece that gives the injectors power, I'm drawing a blank on what its called.

Everything else seems fine, fuel in the rail with spark and the car cranks fine.

 

hey don't blame me its a picture directly out of my 1990 crx helms manual. the picture shows a sketch of the ecu behind the kick plate with the window for the led soooo not sure what all you're going off of.

 

Thinking of replacing the injector resistor box, how common is it of these things to blow? It's original since 89 with 230k miles. I can verify that I DO get fuel at the rail (it spilled out when i removed the rail, also injectors have gas on them) and spark.

There can only be so many things wrong, it isn't something with the motor, since it turns normally, just doesn't fire.

 

My two PM6's only have short blinks, no long blinks.

Maybe a difference between markets?

 

Thats strange. My ECU clearly has different durations of blinking.

 

I don't know.

I was just using it yesterday trying to diagnose a problem.

I had 4 CELs: 6, 10, 13, 20. All of them short blinks with a pause in between.

 

Another thing I forgot to mention, one of the possible ECU codes i was getting was for the coolant temp sensor...well whenever I have the car in the ACC position, about to start, my temp gauge rises about 3/4 of the way up, seemingly recognizing the car as being too hot.

do I have something here, could something like this be an issue with starting?

 

Well, I'm 99.9 sure the head gasket is blown...water shooting out of cylinders 1 and 2..counting from the dist side. So obviously the gasket is leaked, or the block is cracked on the cylinder sleeves. Cylinder 1 has more water than 2, 3 and 4 shoot out very little, if any.

The water is.mixed with gas by the way. I replaced the CTS and my temp gauge still reads hot for some reason. And the rad is steaming after I put in water, crank, then open road cap.