B20 not firing on all cylinders.
like the title says, but its only when i give it gas past a certain point, i can press the accelerator until about half way down, then it starts bogging down, sounding like a motorcycle and all that. im thinkin its something to do with the fuel but i find it weird that its only if im trying to give it more gas.
check the codes first. if it's a random misfire and cyl 1-4 misfire, coupled with a lean code, that leans more towards a fueling issue, among other possibilities. if it's a single cyl misfire, you can start hunting down a culprit specific to that cylinder.
check the codes first, then report back. this will give us a bit better direction
check the codes first, then report back. this will give us a bit better direction
its just one of them things you want to check...when having problems like this..
check the easiest stuff first...because its right there and its easy, then go the the next..
check for spark, fuel, and maybe be compression....
check the easiest stuff first...because its right there and its easy, then go the the next..
check for spark, fuel, and maybe be compression....
true true you wouldnt wanna check the headgasket before the thermostat
my question for the op is do you have vtec? maybe that may have to do with the bogging since its only when you accelerate hard
my question for the op is do you have vtec? maybe that may have to do with the bogging since its only when you accelerate hard
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the map sensor is used by the ecm to determine load calculation. absolutely it could cause misfires under load.
however, the ecm also uses iat and tps in it's calculation. so any one of them could be out of calibration and fooling the ecm into thinking it's a map issue.
so, first thing you want to do is range test the map.
it's a 3 wire piezoresistive type.
-v reference
-reference ground
-signal
find a pinout for the sensor and back probe. first, KOEO, check that you have 5v reference and reference ground. if they are present, probe the signal wire at idle. signal at idle should be roughly 1v. shut the car off. KOEO, signal should be roughly 3-3.5v. KOEO simulates WOT (since you really can't test WOT with KOER. and there wouldn't be a load on it anyways). that is about all you can do to range test the map.
a visual inspection of all wiring is always a good place to start.
good luck, and keep us posted
however, the ecm also uses iat and tps in it's calculation. so any one of them could be out of calibration and fooling the ecm into thinking it's a map issue.
so, first thing you want to do is range test the map.
it's a 3 wire piezoresistive type.
-v reference
-reference ground
-signal
find a pinout for the sensor and back probe. first, KOEO, check that you have 5v reference and reference ground. if they are present, probe the signal wire at idle. signal at idle should be roughly 1v. shut the car off. KOEO, signal should be roughly 3-3.5v. KOEO simulates WOT (since you really can't test WOT with KOER. and there wouldn't be a load on it anyways). that is about all you can do to range test the map.
a visual inspection of all wiring is always a good place to start.
good luck, and keep us posted
i cant check for 5v or any wiring like that due to my limited tools. but i did get the code to stop. i changed the map sensor with one from another working car and the code is no longer there, INSTEAD it has been replaced with a steady CEL, the car runs better and only sputters once in a while. but i'm not sure where to go from here.
it makes perfect sense. when the map's reference voltage (supplied through the ecm) drops, it's usually an indication of a failing ecm.
in fact, a measurement of the map's vref is what's used to perform what's called a k-test.
you must measure voltage across the map's vref terminal and reference ground terminal. if you measure less than 5v, replace ecm
in fact, a measurement of the map's vref is what's used to perform what's called a k-test.
you must measure voltage across the map's vref terminal and reference ground terminal. if you measure less than 5v, replace ecm
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