Hi everyone this is my first post on this site and i hope it will help me fix my problem. Sorry for my bad english, ist way too hard to find any info in french!

Well i swaped an f22a1 from a 92 accord in my 94 accord originally f22b2 and got the check engine light. Codes 10 and 14 (iat and iacv) i changed my iat sensor (that was bursted) and it "fixed" the iacv, i just dont understand why but i still have iat code. The wires continuity is good from the iat to the ecu, got 2000 ohms to the sensor and 1.78 volts from the wires. im not sure if 1.78v is enought, isn't suppose to be 5v?

The car idle roughly and sometimes the motor just stop because the rpm get too low. i tought the iacv was causing this but the check engine disapeared.

 

The iacv fault code is back :S

 

remove the iacv and clean it thoroughly.

 

I already cleaned the iacv with carb cleaner, i tested it by putting the 2 wires on the battery and i saw the valve closing and opening so i guess it is ok. the wires has good continuity.

 

have you tested the tps to make sure it is correctly getting 5v?you may need to adjust it,as that would be the next thing i would look at for an idle problem..

put it this way..if idle goes up,iacv.if idle goes down,tps.

 

I'll take a look at the tps tommorow thank for your help!

 

no problem!keep us updated!

 

if you keep getting codes for a sensor and replacing it doesnt work. you have burned the driver on the ecu and you will never get rid of the code unless you replace the ecu. hopefully you didnt burn the driver on the ecu. seen it happen on a jeep i worked on previous mechanic did some makeshift **** and burned the driver for that sensor

 

Itried another ecu and the problem\codes are exactly the same, i broke both ecu?

 

Well the tps reference is 4.97V and the signal is .47V
The values are suppose to be 5V and .45V so i guess the tps is ok

The rpm fluctuate from 1000 to 1500 rpm... over 1500 its good and under 1000 its kind of ok, i means it go to slow but doesnt fluctuate

 

Ok i fixed it In fact the connector for iacv and iat are similar and i mixed them... Thank for all you halp

 

if theres a short somewhere yes you did

 

dam how the **** did you get the iat plug to reach the iacv?

 

i rebuilded the harness so i guess i made the wires way too long

 

lmao you know that actually takes power away from everything right? the harness has its lengths for a reason. once you made it longer you have changed the resistance on everything.

 

This kind of wire has minimal resistance as i know so i guess its ok everything works

 

yeah everything works ok right now. just wait until you burn your ecu. my cousin is a electric tech. hes the one that had to do my harness because i ended up burning my ecu for running my dizzy wires longer and my vtec wires longer. i burned both my ecu driver for both dizzy and vtec driver after about 6 months. even the wires were a lil bit crusty and hard