changing rear suspension theres 2 14mm one that goes into the shock which is OK, and the one under the drum with allows the lca to be pushed down.

The bolts under the drum are seized I heated them with a torch red hot put my breaker and snapped them.

options? the thread is locked in there with no head now and needs extracted... I dont know much about this id like someone to paint the picture?

do they drill it out and put new thread? and ill get new hard ware? I cannot just go get an LCA atm but if i do get a new set how do i get the old ones out with those bolts snapped and threaded in still.

a real bitch on my build it coulda been on the road slammed.

thx!

 

The usual method is to drill it out using fresh new drill bits. If the majority of the bolt is still in the LCA bushing itself, use a reciprocating saw to cut it off and free the LCA. Knock off or cut off the welded nut at the back (this may save you having to drill since the threads are all in that nut) and use a new bolt (with anti-seize) and a sturdy beefy nut (a washer may be needed depending on if you had to drill and if you did it straight or not).

It's not a quick fix if you cannot knock the nut off. You'll have to drill, which may take a while. If you don't have any of these tools. You're going to be hard pressed to fix it.

 

Oh. REGARDLESS of what people may tell you, DO NOT go to the hardware store to replace these unless you can get automotive grade bolts. There's a reason Honda charges so much for them. I usually get these in grade 12.9. I even have titanium bolts where the LCA ties into the subframe.

 

I would get an oem grade 8+ bolt at Canadian tire.

2 options: have the fab shop down the road do something to it with their tools?? $$?

Or would an air hammer take that welded nut off? Or use my cutting wheel on the grinder the get the nut off?

I'd rather get it down the road jack it up drop it off they get the bolt out I come back put on rear suspension with new bolts? Sound possible?

Thx a lot this helps

 

My vote is for cutting wheel.

 

^ same here, im going to try one side tonight and see what happens. I feel I wont use the LCA after but will do this for temp. or atleast till im not lazy to get another lca and do it back like oem or with aftermarket

we shall see how it goes later im not too happy. too many hours fixing this car rather than modding to race.

 

cutting wheel to free the welds on the nut from the Trailing arm and unless the bolt is siezed to the bushing inside the LCA you should be able to get it off. This happens on those more often than not because esp. if you live in cold areas that apply salt to the roads.

 

when this happens to me, I use recip saw to cut the bolt in between the hub assembly and the lca... use a long breaker bar and just snap the nut off...