I just replaced my oil pan gasket and i was tightening it down and in one corner i can see the gasket coming out over the end of the pan. is this good and the rest should look like that? or is this bad and i tightened it to much? please let me know cause i need to take my car on a trip in like 36 hours.

 

Every gasket i have put on does that. I put a thin layer of silicone on both sides of the gasket, put a few bolts on hand tight and let it sit for an hour and then tighten them all down so they are just snug.

 

i first tightened everything by hand then went till snug and like a half turn after but just one corner i can see part of the gasket sticking out so it seems strange. i dont want it blowing out on me in 2 days when i have to make a 500 mile trip so im hoping that it isnt that i tightened it to much and it split or something. i read somewhere a little bit ago that that can happen if its to tight. and that when it splits that it comes out the sides

 

Thats why i use some silicone on mine, just to be safe because of it pushing out the side in some spots. Should be fine unless alot of the gasket is showing.

 

ok its not alot showing out the side i put silicone in the dips on the ends and up around to the second bolts because i read that is the weakest part cause there arent any bolts on the dips. i guess it isnt that much trouble to change if it starts leaking i will limp it to where im going and bring extra oil with me and refill it alot or just stop in a parking lot and fix it on the way.... ugh fun ride this will be haha

 

I just replaced my CRX pan gasket a little over a week ago. I followed the 92-95 Civic procedure. Put a thin layer of honda-bond around the transition from the flat to the dip. I did it on both sides of the gasket just in case. Then I installed the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center working outward. The book says to only torque each bolt once to 9lb/ft. My oil pan has stayed nice & dry.

BTW: yes there is gasket squished out a little in some places. I remember my B-series pan gasket did the same thing.

 

check out the squish out proof gaskets at http://js-products.webs.com i absolutely love mine.

 

I used to work at a couple of garages. We would never use silicon unless it was recommended, such as at the cam joints of the valve covers. I would recommend limiting the use of silicon on flat gaskets, just don't over tighten them. Additionally, paper gaskets are the best, but they are not common on Hondas.

 

Its not un common to have it squeez out a little, and I would never use any sealant on such a gasket. Unless you dont mind laying under your car to scrape it off next time around. Oone thing is for sure, and that is to know you will have no leaks, you need to use a torqe wrench and make them all even. I cut this corner twice, and I always had a leak. Last time did it by the book, and everything was a-ok.

 

I forgot, the other place besides none flat corners, are where two pieces of metal butt together but still have a flat surface.

 

Yeah both the D & B block will have 4 seams you should cover. Two where the oil pump meets the block, and two where the rear main-seal holder meets the block. Just a smear of Hondabond on your finger tip should do it. This step is outlined in the shop manual for B series engines, but not D. In fact this is the ONLY place you put sealant on the B motors.



This is the 4 spots the Helms manual says to put sealant for D-series oil pans (not all the way across the hump). I put it on both sides of the gasket at this point cause the manual doesn't really specify block or pan side:



B-series oil pan bolt/nut install sequence (done in steps):


D-series oil pan bolt/nut install sequence (no steps, don't know why):


BTW: I like to let the project sit over night after an install. This gives plenty of time for sealant to fully cure before running hot oil against it. Just my opinion. Also make sure none of those metal eyelets get left behind from the old gasket. If you don't notice this, it WILL ruin your install. In this picture, the stud on the left has the old eyelet stuck to it.

 

I would never use silicone sealer on a gasket. Use the black tar like sealer that you paint on with the little brush. The problem with silicone is that it squishes out on the inside and can reek havoc on internal parts with small orifices. Case in point: The transfer case went out in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. When I took it to be rebuilt the mechanic said it had been repaired before and they had used that blue silicone sealer when reassembling it. The silicone had squished out into the case and found it's way into the oil pump, which eventually clogged and starved the gears from lubrication, burning up the main bearings and most of the rest of the gears etc. Do what you want, but I avoid that stuff like the plague. It's great for blocking moisture, but that's about it.

 

Honda doesn't seem to have a problem with that. And they've built millions of cars every year. But YOU know best!

 

Sealant can get into bad places, so use it sparingly. There are a few more spots besides the oil pan on B-series, but the most important thing is to torque to proper specs. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can get one for about $20.