I've got an interesting problem I can't seem to figure out. I've got the dual point manifold and from time to time my car will not want to start again shortly after I've stopped the engine (like going into the bank really quick). It always cranks and you can kind of feel like it wants to start but it won't. I checked my ecu and I was getting the fuel injector code so i replaced both with remanufactured ones. Still does it. I'm guessing somewhere in the ignition area?
Can anyone help me out here? I'm seriously tired of having to let it chill it for a bit so I can start it again.

 

you could try swapping your dizzy with a friend's if you wanted to see if it is distributor related.sounds like icm,or a cas going bad..

if you are still getting fuel injector code,try priming your pump a few times before starting when it is giving you problems like this.could be low fuel pressure..

you could also try smacking your main relay up a bit when it doesnt want to start,sometimes the solder on them get weak after getting hot..

 

The fuel injector do not have a sensor on them so the code you get is just another sensor saying something is wrong and "seems" like it might be the injectors.

It could be anything fuel related. Fuel pump, injectors pressure regulator, wiring (check grounds!).
It could also be ignition related (fuel not being burned properly making it seem like a leaky injector). Distributor, plug wires, plugs, wiring.

 

This happened to me a few years ago. I found out how to fix it on a Brit web site. I'm new here but I'm sure the detailed info is on here as well. There is a relay box just up from your left knee. It needs to be removed to re-solder the contact pins of the relays. The procedure called for de-soldering first but I just touch the soldering iron to the pins to remelt the existing solder and this has worked just fine. Don't quote me on this but I seem to remember that it was the fuel pump pin that was the problem. For some reason the solder would crack and become none conductive after the car was running for a period of time and the contacts got warm. I just touched the iron to each pin for about a second.

 

Is this relay attached to the dash fuse box? Do you have a picture by any chance because it looks a little cluttered

 

He is talking about your main fuse relay. If it clicks in your hand when you put the car in on position it is fine, could be the dizzy (see if a ice pack cools it down) if car starts after it cools there's your problem

 

Oh ok, thank you. I'll look for the relay and try that. What you said about the distributor makes me think its more of that because I notice it's always when the car is warm. My ignition coil is fairly new. Could it be the igniter?

 

Lay on your back under the drivers side of the dash and look up to the right. Its behind some stuff about even with your vent bolted to the side. It's a biatch to get at, you may have to take a few things loose to get it all the way out. I got mine unbolted but had to remove the hood latch lever and some other crap to make a hole large enough to remove it.

 

Possibly but your best bet is narrow down your problems before you jump to conclusions.

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...8-91-civic.jpg

 

Go to Radio Shack and get a can of this for $10:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102648

We electronics techs use it everyday. It has a tube extension like WD=40. Spray the crap out of whatever you think is having a heat related problem until it frosts over and try starting it. If it cranks, you found your problem for $10.

 

if you need to diagnose your distributor,then just wait.try the relay or get back to us if you need to diagnose your distributor...

 

You forgot to tell him to take his dizzy cap off and spray that on coil and igniter until frozen then reinstall cap and try to start his car, if that don't help get your valves checked out possibly valves are too tight and need adjustment.

 

Well I was kinda talking about all of it but yeah you are right. Sorry. Try one thing at a time, of course.

 

I love you tube. This wasn't available when I had my problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY

 

Lol, do yourself a favor and DON"T solder like this dude. He just made the WORST cold solder joint ever. Gonna have problems again soon. The correct way is to get the iron HOT first. Touch some solder to it and if it melts, it's hot enough. WIPE it off with a clean wet sponge or paper towel. It should be shiny and free of oxides before soldering. Now touch the solder to the iron slightly to tin it then to the component and heat it. No solder yet. When it finally gets hot the remaining solder on the joint will liquify. It is now hot enough. Touch the solder to the OPPOSITE side of the joint, not the iron. If it is hot enough it will melt and flow naturally around the whole joint. Do NOT touch the solder to the iron tip to get the solder to start melting! Hold for a sec to ensure a proper connection, then remove the iron. You are done. I can't stress this enough. It is so important to do it this way that electronics schools will have a complete course just on proper soldering technique. If you end up with a BALL of solder like he did you need to reheat the joint, wipe it off, start over and let the solder melt and flow naturally around the connection. Do NOT just add more solder. It should look like a cone just like all the other joints.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

 

Sorry for the late response. I've been working and whatnot. I'll try these solutions you guys have given me. I bought that component cooler spray but the car hasn't done it since lol.
But if I get any results I'll report back! Thanks!

 

The whole time your car was on her period...lol

 

For real lol. Every time I try to diagnose something it never does it again! But I'll be waiting for it to show up again.

 

I had this exact same problem. I bought a new main relay for $50 and haven't had this issue in over a year.

I swear, for me, it was only when I would start the car with someone in the passenger seat.

I verified my relay wasn't clicking and checked voltage at the fuel pump, only to find 6.7V.

 

My car did this as well. Only problem starting the car was about 15 minutes after driving somewhere.

One day it stalled at a red light and wouldn't start again - my dizzy was shot. Replaced my dizzy and have had no more problems.

Be sure to check the cheap stuff first.

Good luck