Is this (B18B1) Head and Block any good?(pics)
I need to know if this Head and block is still capable of producing its power. I believe there are some damage and it require alot of work but what kind of work and where to start first. Here are some pics.
cylinder 1

cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

cylinder 1

cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

TDC

TDC
cylinder 1

cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

cylinder 1

cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

TDC

TDC
looks like some dip$#!T ran nothing but water in those jackets.
I'm not gonna say its bad, although with all of that material missing from the cylinder sleeves, It seems that getting a proper headgasket seal might be questionable.
I personally wouldnt use this block for high performance build, and this question you ask should be more directed at the machine shop that you use, or another member here well versed in machining and limits of these engines would have a much more definate answer then me. Wait for more input from other before coming to a conclusion.
GL bud!
I'm not gonna say its bad, although with all of that material missing from the cylinder sleeves, It seems that getting a proper headgasket seal might be questionable.
I personally wouldnt use this block for high performance build, and this question you ask should be more directed at the machine shop that you use, or another member here well versed in machining and limits of these engines would have a much more definate answer then me. Wait for more input from other before coming to a conclusion.
GL bud!
looks like some dip$#!T ran nothing but water in those jackets.
I'm not gonna say its bad, although with all of that material missing from the cylinder sleeves, It seems that getting a proper headgasket seal might be questionable.
I personally wouldnt use this block for high performance build, and this question you ask should be more directed at the machine shop that you use, or another member here well versed in machining and limits of these engines would have a much more definate answer then me. Wait for more input from other before coming to a conclusion.
GL bud!
I'm not gonna say its bad, although with all of that material missing from the cylinder sleeves, It seems that getting a proper headgasket seal might be questionable.
I personally wouldnt use this block for high performance build, and this question you ask should be more directed at the machine shop that you use, or another member here well versed in machining and limits of these engines would have a much more definate answer then me. Wait for more input from other before coming to a conclusion.
GL bud!
Looks fine to me, just get a wirebrush and some brake cleaner to the pistons and valves, clean the mating surfaces of the head and block, you will be fine.
maybe just get the parts hot tanked at a machine shop or something. with that much residue on the head i would worry about how the valve seals and stuff are..
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should i worry about the chip-off around the top of cylinder edges ? that was the first thing i notice when i took the head off.
Options:
1. Re-sleeve
2. Clean surface contact including valves
3. Hot take
I also thought about resurfacing also. any input on that???
Options:
1. Re-sleeve
2. Clean surface contact including valves
3. Hot take
I also thought about resurfacing also. any input on that???
Ok i have worked as an auto mechanic for over 12 years. and i work very closely (some time just walk in and do it my self) with my local machine shop on over 20 biulds 4 of them where mine.
from what i see i would suggest you deck the block and shave the head and get it Hot tanked. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT try and use a wire brush as B20ztek said.
honda uses a MLS or multi layer steal head gasket and there is nothing on a MLS gasket to seal the scratches you will put in the head and block.
any one who would use a wire brush on there head surfice might as well just use silicone and forget the HG. it's just as Stupid.
if your plan is for Boost or High comp NA building i would suggest you use a block guard or if you feel the need for extra side wall reinforcement you can use two but will need to have one pressed down about 2.5" from the deck to support the middle of the cylinder walls. ( not the best idea in terms of water flow) Or get the block sleeved
the outer walls of the cylinders is aluminium the inner is steal the "chipping" you see is called pitting and is from ether Electrolysis (using Pure tap water) or cavitation (running low coolant level And or Over heating the Engine)
By looking at the photo's i have to say your pitting is from over heating as there is little in a honda engine's cooling system that rusts (mostly just the fins of a Cheap water pump) if you look at the head you can see the white powder. That is Aluminium oxide and the redish brown is rust or Iron oxide now when the engine ovet heats the coolant hits the cylinder walls when over heated it flash boils the watter and rapidly cools the metal cuasing it to chip off little bits and creating a wall of steam between the cylinders and the coolant causing more cavitation.
with the rust in ther i would have to say the cooling system got a good high temp steaming witch left iron rich water vapor every where that latter rusted.
SO with the fact the motor is torn down and looks to be out of the car i would
tear the whole thing a part take the Block, crank and head to the machine shop and have them de-glaze and Deck the block polish the crank and rework the head (ie shave lap valves and new exhaust guides)
i would put in new rod, main bearings and Rings
use a Scoch pad to clean off the piston tops
and reassemble.
when you look at all the work you have already done and you just plan to put it together and drive it there is no point in doing a half way rebiuld just to have the stuff you didn't do fail and be right back here again.
from what i see i would suggest you deck the block and shave the head and get it Hot tanked. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT try and use a wire brush as B20ztek said.
honda uses a MLS or multi layer steal head gasket and there is nothing on a MLS gasket to seal the scratches you will put in the head and block.
any one who would use a wire brush on there head surfice might as well just use silicone and forget the HG. it's just as Stupid.
if your plan is for Boost or High comp NA building i would suggest you use a block guard or if you feel the need for extra side wall reinforcement you can use two but will need to have one pressed down about 2.5" from the deck to support the middle of the cylinder walls. ( not the best idea in terms of water flow) Or get the block sleeved
the outer walls of the cylinders is aluminium the inner is steal the "chipping" you see is called pitting and is from ether Electrolysis (using Pure tap water) or cavitation (running low coolant level And or Over heating the Engine)
By looking at the photo's i have to say your pitting is from over heating as there is little in a honda engine's cooling system that rusts (mostly just the fins of a Cheap water pump) if you look at the head you can see the white powder. That is Aluminium oxide and the redish brown is rust or Iron oxide now when the engine ovet heats the coolant hits the cylinder walls when over heated it flash boils the watter and rapidly cools the metal cuasing it to chip off little bits and creating a wall of steam between the cylinders and the coolant causing more cavitation.
with the rust in ther i would have to say the cooling system got a good high temp steaming witch left iron rich water vapor every where that latter rusted.
SO with the fact the motor is torn down and looks to be out of the car i would
tear the whole thing a part take the Block, crank and head to the machine shop and have them de-glaze and Deck the block polish the crank and rework the head (ie shave lap valves and new exhaust guides)
i would put in new rod, main bearings and Rings
use a Scoch pad to clean off the piston tops
and reassemble.
when you look at all the work you have already done and you just plan to put it together and drive it there is no point in doing a half way rebiuld just to have the stuff you didn't do fail and be right back here again.
Ok i have worked as an auto mechanic for over 12 years. and i work very closely (some time just walk in and do it my self) with my local machine shop on over 20 biulds 4 of them where mine.
from what i see i would suggest you deck the block and shave the head and get it Hot tanked. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT try and use a wire brush as B20ztek said.
honda uses a MLS or multi layer steal head gasket and there is nothing on a MLS gasket to seal the scratches you will put in the head and block.
any one who would use a wire brush on there head surfice might as well just use silicone and forget the HG. it's just as Stupid.
if your plan is for Boost or High comp NA building i would suggest you use a block guard or if you feel the need for extra side wall reinforcement you can use two but will need to have one pressed down about 2.5" from the deck to support the middle of the cylinder walls. ( not the best idea in terms of water flow) Or get the block sleeved
the outer walls of the cylinders is aluminium the inner is steal the "chipping" you see is called pitting and is from ether Electrolysis (using Pure tap water) or cavitation (running low coolant level And or Over heating the Engine)
By looking at the photo's i have to say your pitting is from over heating as there is little in a honda engine's cooling system that rusts (mostly just the fins of a Cheap water pump) if you look at the head you can see the white powder. That is Aluminium oxide and the redish brown is rust or Iron oxide now when the engine ovet heats the coolant hits the cylinder walls when over heated it flash boils the watter and rapidly cools the metal cuasing it to chip off little bits and creating a wall of steam between the cylinders and the coolant causing more cavitation.
with the rust in ther i would have to say the cooling system got a good high temp steaming witch left iron rich water vapor every where that latter rusted.
SO with the fact the motor is torn down and looks to be out of the car i would
tear the whole thing a part take the Block, crank and head to the machine shop and have them de-glaze and Deck the block polish the crank and rework the head (ie shave lap valves and new exhaust guides)
i would put in new rod, main bearings and Rings
use a Scoch pad to clean off the piston tops
and reassemble.
when you look at all the work you have already done and you just plan to put it together and drive it there is no point in doing a half way rebiuld just to have the stuff you didn't do fail and be right back here again.
from what i see i would suggest you deck the block and shave the head and get it Hot tanked. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT try and use a wire brush as B20ztek said.
honda uses a MLS or multi layer steal head gasket and there is nothing on a MLS gasket to seal the scratches you will put in the head and block.
any one who would use a wire brush on there head surfice might as well just use silicone and forget the HG. it's just as Stupid.
if your plan is for Boost or High comp NA building i would suggest you use a block guard or if you feel the need for extra side wall reinforcement you can use two but will need to have one pressed down about 2.5" from the deck to support the middle of the cylinder walls. ( not the best idea in terms of water flow) Or get the block sleeved
the outer walls of the cylinders is aluminium the inner is steal the "chipping" you see is called pitting and is from ether Electrolysis (using Pure tap water) or cavitation (running low coolant level And or Over heating the Engine)
By looking at the photo's i have to say your pitting is from over heating as there is little in a honda engine's cooling system that rusts (mostly just the fins of a Cheap water pump) if you look at the head you can see the white powder. That is Aluminium oxide and the redish brown is rust or Iron oxide now when the engine ovet heats the coolant hits the cylinder walls when over heated it flash boils the watter and rapidly cools the metal cuasing it to chip off little bits and creating a wall of steam between the cylinders and the coolant causing more cavitation.
with the rust in ther i would have to say the cooling system got a good high temp steaming witch left iron rich water vapor every where that latter rusted.
SO with the fact the motor is torn down and looks to be out of the car i would
tear the whole thing a part take the Block, crank and head to the machine shop and have them de-glaze and Deck the block polish the crank and rework the head (ie shave lap valves and new exhaust guides)
i would put in new rod, main bearings and Rings
use a Scoch pad to clean off the piston tops
and reassemble.
when you look at all the work you have already done and you just plan to put it together and drive it there is no point in doing a half way rebiuld just to have the stuff you didn't do fail and be right back here again.
Unfortunately I will not continue to rebuild this engine due to the damage of poor ownership. Although there were solutions, such as using block guards, to secure/help/ this engine run, I'm not willing to take the risk. It is true that the owner before used only tap water in the cooling system which was the main cause of the problem and its not worth it to prevent/fix this. Even if I did make this engine run, there may be other issue in the future. the income spent on this poor engine can be use on a more valuable and trustworthy engine.
What I will do is play with this engine, meaning, take it apart, learn the parts, put it back together and repeat. Thanks to everyone who help me with any information. Much love to Honda-tech.
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