what is this component on my ecu?
when i came to socket my ecu i noticed i had a burnt pin on one of the components on the board heres a pic

here you can see the burnt pin and board

any ideas, the car still starts but wont rev over 4krpm and the ecu light just stays on and it wont let me do a fault code test

here you can see the burnt pin and board


any ideas, the car still starts but wont rev over 4krpm and the ecu light just stays on and it wont let me do a fault code test
Last edited by pc18; Jun 15, 2012 at 05:33 AM.
The ECU is toast. Get a different ECU. Just trying to desolder those components usually damages the circuit board, and there may be other unseen damage to the ECU.
when i came to socket my ecu i noticed i had a burnt pin on one of the components on the board heres a pic

here you can see the burnt pin and board

any ideas, the car still starts but wont rev over 4krpm and the ecu light just stays on and it wont let me do a fault code test

here you can see the burnt pin and board


any ideas, the car still starts but wont rev over 4krpm and the ecu light just stays on and it wont let me do a fault code test
no i bought it to socket and i when i opened it i noticed the bunt part. then i put it in my eg which iv fitted a b18c4 and the car starts fine and ticks over but wont rev over 4k rpm.
ive now got a replacment part to se if it solves the problem. theres still continuity from the pin and the track.
ive now got a replacment part to se if it solves the problem. theres still continuity from the pin and the track.
Yeah that doesn't look like it burned too hot. You look like you lucked out and the trace didn't lift and break. Should be an easy enough fix. For assurance after you replace the part/ get the fix. You could put some clear enamel over that area to protect it. I use clear nail polish.
Good luck
Good luck
cheers ghost. ive got another p28 just incase it doesnt want to play. im trying to sort a map out now but i just cant seem to get my head around adjusting these colums and rows in crome for high cam stuff. im going to start a new thread about it.
The top 2 are injector drivers iirc that controls the o2 sensor heater circuit. Any damage to your harness/o2 heater. I could see that happening if the sensor was shorted internally. You may even get away with out repairing it by turning off the o2sensor/heater.
I have replaced injector drivers before its best to have a desoldering gun.
I have replaced injector drivers before its best to have a desoldering gun.
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Thanks for that I managed to get hold of another from a parts ecu. Iv since sorted my map out and the car is no longer in limp mode and is only displaying the fault code for vtec pressure switch as I havnt bridged the 2 pins for it yet, so I think its ok.
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