Hi all!! Long time lurker here, would love to get some advice on what's wrong with my car.

My 96 Accord has ~208,000 miles on it. It is very gradually losing coolant somehow causing the fan to not come on due to low coolant level, thus overheating my car when stopped or idling. The temp is normal when driving for the most part, it only creeps up when at a stop, depending on the coolant level. The temperature stays normal for days at a time, but starts to creep up after the coolant level gets down past a certain point.

Anyways, I have checked everywhere for visible leaks, can't find any whatsoever. Replaced the fan switch on the thermostat housing before I knew it wasn't a fan issue because the fan comes on after ~20 mins as long as the coolant level is normal. Also replaced the timing belt and water pump recently for whatever that's worth...

I'm just kind of out of ideas at this point. I've made sure no air bubbles are trapped in the upper and lower radiator hoses as best I can, I got a new radiator cap thinking it might be a pressure issue, checked for leaks on both hoses, etc. I know it must be some sort of leak, so I'm hesitant to replace the fan relays, thermostat, etc. because I'm strapped for cash.

Any advice you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

Pull the spark plugs and see if any are clean or have a coolant colored tinge to them

When the coolant gets low, do you open the bleeder screw next to the thermostat housing to bleed the air out?
This probably doesn't really matter now if you do have a leak, but it will aid in maintaining more fluid in the system for a longer stretch. Also make sure your heater valve is fully open when bleeding.

 

I actually just replaced the spark plugs the other day because I was having a cylinder misfire. It cured the problem, but the car still starts up rough for the first 1-2 seconds 0_o. I'll check the old and new plugs and let you know though. I have also checked the oil and there is no sign of any coolant leakage there though, thank god.

To answer your question though, no, I haven't opened the bleeder screw at all while testing or driving it. How do you adjust it exactly?? I've heard a couple different ways people have suggested on how to bleed/flush the system properly so I've kind of held out on that, not to mention I'm not the most mechanically inclined person so I appreciate the advice and I'll let you know about the spark plugs.

 

You don't have to but you can use a tube, crack the bleeder open 1/4-1/2 turn and wait til a solid stream of coolant comes out of the bleeder. The engine does not need to be on, and actually I think it is best if it were to be left off.

When a solid stream of coolant flows out of the bleeder close it. You have removed the air from the system

This NEEDS to be done whenever the coolant system has been drained. Otherwise air will be trapped in the system and cooling of the engine will occur.

Not bleeding the system will cause overheating which in turn may cause head gasket failure if not rectified.

 

Thanks a lot for the info!!!

I checked the spark plugs btw, no coolant residue or smell...

HOWEVER, I wasn't able to even start my car today and now I'm worried that it might be related somehow. It turns over and everything when I try and start it, but it just wouldn't actually start. I think I may need a new EGR valve or O2 sensor as my check engine light has been on for awhile now...not to mention the EGR valve would explain my rough startup.

Any thoughts/suggestions???

 

its your headgasket. that rough start is from is starting with coolant in your cylinders. you might not think so but im betting $100 its head gasket. thats y your loosing coolant as well.

 

oh forgot to mention. when your car is cool remove radiator cap and start the car tell us what happens when you do

 

I've already done that, nothing unusual happened, level stayed pretty much the same and it ran fine. Tried this less than a week ago, I would try it again if my car would start!!! Just weird because it actually started great for a change yesterday.....

 

Then why would my spark plugs not have coolant residue or anything on them??? I don't know, I feel if it were the head gasket the symptoms would be more extensive...

 

Depends how small the leak is. If you do indeed have a leaking HG you can simply remove the spark plugs after letting the car sit overnite and look into the spark plug holes with a flash light. Coolant will be in one of the cylinders if the HG is indeed leaking. However Im not so sure this is your problem. Go to your local auto parts store and buy or rent a cooling system pressure tester and use accordingly....(also may want to pull the codes)

 

Thanks a lot for the response, I will be sure to do this and then report back. Pressure tester would def tell me if it indeed is a HG issue....I'll get a new EGR valve while I'm at it and report back with codes and all that. Thank you!!

 

i had a bad headgasket no white smoke no nothing no residue on spark plugs no signs of headgasket no water overspray with cap off just NO signs of headgasket. i decided to remove head and sure enough there was evidence that the headgasket was gone between two cylinders but i just couldnt find the evidence without removing the head. you can do a coolant chemical test that will tell you if you have exhaust gasses in your cooling system

 

Ok now I'm officially worried lol. Replacing the timing belt was a b!tch and a half with the crankshaft pulley bolt and all that garbage, I can't imagine doing the HG just a few months later >_<. Here's to praying that the HG isn't the problem, I'll try and give more updates asap. Thanks.

 

Removed spark plugs and my worst suspicions were confirmed, was leaking into the head. I honestly will probably end up parting this car out at this point, it's simply not worth all the money I've dumped into at at this point. Thanks for the helps guys.