I dont post here often anymore, but thought someone would find this information useful? Its not often I came across peoples weights...


94 dx hatch, h22 full swap, D2's (9kg/7kg spring). No driver weight, around 1/4 tank fuel.







the ol' girl amongst the shop cars







I run about zero toe front, .040" IN rear IIRC.. 2* camber f/r. The machine wouldnt give me caster for some reason, so i plan on re-doing it.. it turns in too fast how its setup right now. Very neutral though. Enjoy.

 

I'm new to honda-tech and actually looking for a weight so I can ge a good ballpark when I do my swap. Useful thank you

 

nice workshop

 

Whats that place called? Some good looking cars

 

Not bad considering you have a H22 up front.

 

One of the mods did an H2B swap, and actually sat down to weight all of the individual components. H swaps only add something like 30 lbs.

 

That was me, and the weight addition is insignificant.

80whp and 60ft/lbs doesn't hold a candle to the numbers in my sig

Wouldn't matter if it was 200lbs, the car would still be worlds faster and still handle just fine.

 

I agree, I've never had a complaint about the power to weight. It does require some inquisitive setup application though... all the more fun to me.



The shop is Blackdog Speedshop aka Blackdog Racing. We run a scca world challenge GT series vette (seen in picture) and have built a speed shop off of it. I'm just part of the team. Google it, its good stuff.

 

I forgot to note, I do have my bicycle roof rack on the car, so that is easily 60lb which should make the car right at 2200lb dry. I might plan on doing a fiberglass skin hood and take the rebar support out of the front to move some weight...

 

I thought so, I just haven't seen you posting at all recently

I assume this is going to be a track only car? Removing the support from the front end is going to turn your knees into the crumple zone, and the motor into your airbag.

 

It will be a weekend warrior car if it goes to that level... but then it would get a spec cage too.. so lots of weight to offset then!

 

Idk why people think an h swap is going to be too heavy lol

 

H2B seems to be a different story all together. I have personal felt and thought the H22a trannys to be heavy. I could be wrong.

Either way I'm impressed with this hatch and starting to consider going H22 again. I did like the power-band, I just need to go H2B this time around.

 

I'm sure a hardcore racer could comment more on the strength of the H trans compared to the B... but I dont have long term, back to back experience. I would guess the B trans is lighter, but not by much.

Not that I want this to turn into a H vs. B trans debate, but I think a lot of people use H2B because its easier to keep the b trans/mounts/axles instead of mounting cables and making axles. I get it. Its just not for me. I'm not spending all the money for the adapter... im not starting with a B, b/c they suck, and I'm not putting my H22 at a heavy forward tilt disrupting weight of the car, oiling in the motor, and spacing my hood. Sorry.

 

My 92 Si (w/ gsr swap and no back interior) came in at 2315 with about a 1/4 - 1/3 tank and 175lbs in the driver's seat.

 

I've got an h2b and my hood isn't spaced, AND I've got air conditioning

And you can just tap a new oil drain plug. It's not a big deal.

And what on earth is the problem with tilting the engine forward 15 degrees? How much of the ~250lb assembly do you think is actually moved forward by that slight shift? 30lbs?

 

I'd like to see the corner weights... that would tell all.


I'm just not a fan of all the extra work when your swapping a car from scratch. Maybe it doesnt matter?... Im just not interested in H2B

 

H2B is effectively a B-series swap with the QSD kit. I have B-series hasport mounts on my swap.

The only extra work is grinding the back of the block and taking a 3lb hammer to the frame rail for 30 seconds.

between the lightweight flywheel and removing the balance shafts that's already 20lbs saved if not more. Not to mention my axles are straight, if anything the regular h22 swap would be more nose heavy because the engine sits closer to the radiator support than the H2B, mine leans forward 15* but the h22 is actually positioned wholly more forward than the H2B.

I don't see any reason not to be interested. A bolt in swap that can get you mid 12's on a stock engine? I don't drag race, but there's a reason you hardly see h22 swaps done the conventional way anymore, and why Seth@QSD gets 200+ emails a day.

Corner weighting is certainly something vital to a track or dual duty car. Once I revamp my suspension for next years autocross season with new coilovers, camber kits, bushings, etc I'll be getting mine corner weighted and will gladly share the results.

 

If your drag racing, then I understand it. Otherwise, it still doesnt make any sense to me. I didnt know you had to grind the block and hammer the frame rail in!? That is definitely not for me. I've done a lot of H swaps and have zero problems with axles or anything else.

I disagree with where the tilt of the motor puts the weight, but I dont have any empirical proof of corners or roll centers to back it up. Its just not natural. Anyone who does an H2B probably doesnt have enough capability to complete a full H swap properly, and thats okay.


I also forgot to rake the car as well, another important aspect of the chassis... I have a slight pull and some odd caster feel, so I'm probably going to put it back up on the pad and do another setdown. I would tweak the D2's, but I dont think its necessary for now...