b16a timing. need help asap
recently got a DA with a 1st gen b16a swap. anyways it was running awful and car would frequently die on me while driving. so i checked my timing and it was off. not really bad but somewhat.. would correctly timing it fix both problems?
also, my starter is wired to a toggle switch, how could i go about changing it back to the ignition?
need help asap. thanks.
also, my starter is wired to a toggle switch, how could i go about changing it back to the ignition?
need help asap. thanks.
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How to go about fixing the issues: your first step imo is to get the helms manual for your car. Your going to need it to find out why the ignition switch has a toggle(more than likely you prolly end up replacing the harness/switch.
Get the manual all the info is clear and concise and simple ,learn how to use a multimeter if you do not know how for you will need this to repair your carro;
I prefer to loosen all my valves (rocker arms) and do the timing belt seems easier for me this way and then do the clearances according to the helms.
Get the manual all the info is clear and concise and simple ,learn how to use a multimeter if you do not know how for you will need this to repair your carro;
I prefer to loosen all my valves (rocker arms) and do the timing belt seems easier for me this way and then do the clearances according to the helms.
when someone comes here asking for help with something... it's obviously NOT common sense... if I ask you what the timing is in a radar's rf signal to travel a nautical mile... would you know the answer??? probably not, but I've been working radar systems for the last 9 years, so it's common sense to me... no need to be an *** just because people ask for help...
when someone comes here asking for help with something... it's obviously NOT common sense... if I ask you what the timing is in a radar's rf signal to travel a nautical mile... would you know the answer??? probably not, but I've been working radar systems for the last 9 years, so it's common sense to me... no need to be an *** just because people ask for help...
well since mr. "common sense" really had no intelligent input other than "fix it" i'll help you out...
Line the crank up, Line the cams up. you have to route the belt a certain way. Start the belt on the crank first, then the tensioner pully, water pump than the rear cam gear. The front gear is the last gear to get the belt.
Also look at the cam bearing caps. The caps that are all the way at the end just behind the gear. There is a small hole in it. That hole will line up with a hole in the cam itselfs. Get two allen wrenches or screwdrivers that will fit in those holes and turn the cam so the screwdrivers go into both holes. That will hold them in place till you get the belt on. Then what i do is take the front screwdriver out. Turn the crank to take the tension out of the belt. The rear screwdriver will hold the back cam and you will get all the tension out this way. Then just tighten the 14mm tensioner bolt.
Unplug the distributor and crank the motor a few times. Double check your timing marks and see where you are at.
Now onto the starter signal wire... its a bit trickier... you can either run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter... or you can rerun the wire through all the wire bundles to the shock tower and back through your engine harness to the starter... you'll have to find a pinout (which I don't have an electronic version on hand at the moment).
Line the crank up, Line the cams up. you have to route the belt a certain way. Start the belt on the crank first, then the tensioner pully, water pump than the rear cam gear. The front gear is the last gear to get the belt.
Also look at the cam bearing caps. The caps that are all the way at the end just behind the gear. There is a small hole in it. That hole will line up with a hole in the cam itselfs. Get two allen wrenches or screwdrivers that will fit in those holes and turn the cam so the screwdrivers go into both holes. That will hold them in place till you get the belt on. Then what i do is take the front screwdriver out. Turn the crank to take the tension out of the belt. The rear screwdriver will hold the back cam and you will get all the tension out this way. Then just tighten the 14mm tensioner bolt.
Unplug the distributor and crank the motor a few times. Double check your timing marks and see where you are at.
Now onto the starter signal wire... its a bit trickier... you can either run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter... or you can rerun the wire through all the wire bundles to the shock tower and back through your engine harness to the starter... you'll have to find a pinout (which I don't have an electronic version on hand at the moment).
well since mr. "common sense" really had no intelligent input other than "fix it" i'll help you out...
Line the crank up, Line the cams up. you have to route the belt a certain way. Start the belt on the crank first, then the tensioner pully, water pump than the rear cam gear. The front gear is the last gear to get the belt.
Also look at the cam bearing caps. The caps that are all the way at the end just behind the gear. There is a small hole in it. That hole will line up with a hole in the cam itselfs. Get two allen wrenches or screwdrivers that will fit in those holes and turn the cam so the screwdrivers go into both holes. That will hold them in place till you get the belt on. Then what i do is take the front screwdriver out. Turn the crank to take the tension out of the belt. The rear screwdriver will hold the back cam and you will get all the tension out this way. Then just tighten the 14mm tensioner bolt.
Unplug the distributor and crank the motor a few times. Double check your timing marks and see where you are at.
Now onto the starter signal wire... its a bit trickier... you can either run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter... or you can rerun the wire through all the wire bundles to the shock tower and back through your engine harness to the starter... you'll have to find a pinout (which I don't have an electronic version on hand at the moment).
Line the crank up, Line the cams up. you have to route the belt a certain way. Start the belt on the crank first, then the tensioner pully, water pump than the rear cam gear. The front gear is the last gear to get the belt.
Also look at the cam bearing caps. The caps that are all the way at the end just behind the gear. There is a small hole in it. That hole will line up with a hole in the cam itselfs. Get two allen wrenches or screwdrivers that will fit in those holes and turn the cam so the screwdrivers go into both holes. That will hold them in place till you get the belt on. Then what i do is take the front screwdriver out. Turn the crank to take the tension out of the belt. The rear screwdriver will hold the back cam and you will get all the tension out this way. Then just tighten the 14mm tensioner bolt.
Unplug the distributor and crank the motor a few times. Double check your timing marks and see where you are at.
Now onto the starter signal wire... its a bit trickier... you can either run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter... or you can rerun the wire through all the wire bundles to the shock tower and back through your engine harness to the starter... you'll have to find a pinout (which I don't have an electronic version on hand at the moment).
OP is not even asking how to adjust the timing of belt or of ignition.
OP is asking if adjusting the timing will fix his problem.
Some may not have noticed this, but after posting -- and then bumping twice in 2 hrs & 3 min -- OP appears to have abandoned this thread. So much for needing help "asap"...
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B_CRUZ!
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