Gonna install some 300-014's in a GSR block.
Wondering why, in the literature..they rate them at 20 psi instead of hp?
Guy on phone tells me boost stays the same..power differs? I say huh?
Seems like power is more of an accurate rating than boost.
Isn't 20 psi on a GT35r gonna stress the engine more than 20 from a t25 with the associated increased flow? Am I an idiot?
I dont really care what the rating is..I know they'll take 500 which will be fine, just puzzled by that standard.

 

Youre not crazy. What youre saying makes sense. They shouldnt be rating them based off psi. I couldnt tell you why they do that tho. You could go over 20psi if the tune is right and the turbo isnt out of its efficency range

 

They told me exactly the same lol. Maybe there's something that we don't know?? Either way I'd say they'd be fine for around the 500 mark.

If you'd like to see some pictures of them fitted then check out page 14 of my build thread.

 

Saw them already Rich...ur the only one I've seen...nice pics btw...your's will prolly be running before ours
U still in U.S. ?

 

Cheers man, keep me update with how you get on with them. BTW, get your machine shop to check if the flanges need slightly grinding before installing (as mine did). Basically i needed 1mm or so trimmed off the sides of the inner flanges so they could be installed correctly.

Nah, i got back to the UK around 1pm (our time). Now i've got the pleasure of adjusting to a 8 hour time difference... should be fun....

 

so they don't have a flat on them...hmmm.
did u guys use Loctite adhesive...and what interference differential?
They told me not to push it..0.0 or even clearance!
There wont be much left of the cylinder supports so u can't squeeze 'em too tight. Might go .0005 undersize.
No blockguard for u?

 

I would really like to know if anyone has pushed flanged sleeves farther than me yet,

I had 500whp on them at 84mm last couple years, and im really scared to up it to 600.

Someone else guinea pig this ****.

 

We should be so lucky!
84 is out there..we're going back to 3.2095... so they will be thicker. Struggling with whether to use blockguard.

 

When i was considering using these, the machine shop told me as long as I stay stock bore they were good for 600. He said the biggest problem with em is that ppl think you can bore em all the way out to 84 and go for big numbers.

 

^ my machine shop said the exact opposite,

they said going 84mm is fine with these, iron is iron.

so I went 84mm,

I mean, the only thing I could see happen is the inner sleever expanding from so much heat and cracking the outer stock wall,

but it hasnt happend at 500whp yet,

maybe il try and push it to 600 at the end of the season, that way if it blows up il have the off season to get a new block

 

Sorry to wake a dead thread but I am interested in a question that wasn't answered yet. What kind of adhesive, if any, did you guys use when installing the sleeves?

any info is greatly appreciated

 

Loctite 620..it's green

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0150217

Got mine at a local CAT warehouse...around $35

Still haven't assembled engine..sorry guys...soon tho.

 

I wouldn't even bother with dry sleeves... they are still supported by the stock aluminum sleeve and still open deck.... that's why dart on is saying not to run stupid pressures as the stock aluminum casting can still break/shift/crack

Its basically a stock replacement sleeve.... go wet MID or don't bother

 

Hey YOU, I have those sleeves in MY engine

They're OK for some people (like myself). All I wanted was a stronger sleeve than OEM. Considering the "Flanged Sleeves" don't cost much, and don't cost much to install they suited me. To import and have a set of "wet sleeves " fitted would of cost me a fortune. They're not rubbish (or as you'd say "junk "). They're ideal for people that dont trust stock sleeves but don't want to go all out with Wet sleeves.

 

Much better than stock replacements, bro..they are the same ductile iron used in the MIDs.
Anyway, ours was a way to salvage my block after Gary screwed the pooch on a .5 mm overbore.
The support of the webbing surrounding the cyl. is retained tho, and I like that.
Man..u have to gut the **** outta the block to install those mids. Don't they recommend a line-bore after that due to the relaxation of the block after hollowing it out? More money..more changing of OEM block holiness, more risk of shop error.
It's obviously a proven system, tho. (MID) They are benchmark nowadays. But trying to get an operation like that done locally in most areas is risky and expensive. My guy does alot of these for big power V8's..so...
I got the flanged sleeves at cost and hookup on machining so we're all in.
Gary has done MIDs before, but I couldn't justify the cost for my kid's street car.

 

Sorry to bring this back up from the dead..... Can a regular machine shop do these type of sleeves or do you recommend sending it out somewhere else? Thanks!

 

The basic principal is easy, its whether or not the machine shop is equipped to handle large items (it takes a large mill to fit a motor in) I can't remember if darton supplies their sleeves with technical drawings and such or not, best call them