Hey there, I just picked up an 89 Civic LX sedan after totaling my 89 SI hatchback. The sedan has power steering and it's not something I really want to keep. I have the manual rack from the Si and I was wondering if there would be any advantages to switching to it or should I just disable the power rack that the sedan already has. Are the ratios the same for the 2 or would the manual rack require less turns being that it isn't hydraulically assisted? Any help with this would be great. I'm getting ready to send off my Si shell for scrap metal so if it wouldn't make a difference then there's no point in me removing the rack from the Si.

 

I wouldnt see why there is a difference between the two. I also dont believe the Ps rack turns less than the non Ps rack, all the p/s pump does is force the fluid to Assist you when turning. Correct me if im wrong but I just cut my line off at the rack and pinched the line shut. Worked for me for years, just my .02

 

Ok kool thanks. I'm thinking of switching the racks anyway due to me being picky. Lol just knowing the lines are clamped shut might just bug me a bit. I'm pulling out the engine anyway to replace the block with a ZC. I appreciate the input. thanks once again.

 

Manual and power racks have different "U" mounts.
You can't find poly bushings for the the power rack (larger diameter) but they make them for the manual (smaller diameter).

91 sedan EX power rack is 3.1 turns lock-to-lock.
Everything else is about 4.

Si had a variable rack that is tight at center, but about 1/2~3/4 turn from center it speeds up.
This is due to the gear cut on the rack looking something like how this gear is cut


Other manual models are not variable cut so they are more of a workout.
But you can add a Quaife kit to these and get a 2.4 lock-to-lock... even more of a work out.
Kit does not work on variable rack.

Looping back the lines on the power steering actually worsens the feel and is tougher to turn than a manual rack.

Stock power steering gets jittery at high speeds as the power steering is active.
EG PS racks upgraded to a pressure system that reduces power steering at high speeds.
On 88~91 power steering, an electric MR2 PS pump can be used to get the high speed same effect as well as negate the parasitic drag of the stock belt driven PS pump.

 

So are you recommending the manual Si rack over the LX power rack? The looseness at higher speeds is exactly why I don't want power steering. If I were to go with the manual rack would it bolt rite up with all of the hardware off of my Si? I had a hunch there was a difference but lack the knowledge in this area to make a decision.

 

I would go MR2 pump just because I would be daily driving it and can't figure a good reason for not keeping the luxury of power steering.
The MR2 pump doesn't have the jitter issue since it's not pumping any differently at high RPM.
Belt driven at high RPM pumps more fluid... loose steering.

But if your rack is completely toast, and you have the Si rack and everything to bolt it in, then Si makes a whole lot of sense.

 

Sw20 mr2? Will the fittings match up or would the lines have to be switched out or something?

 

Lines do get fabbed.
It's a project to have fun with, not just a simple swap.

Here's a write-up.
http://projectcarpalooza-1988crx.blo...p-install.html

 

Thanks 4dr, I honestly had not a clue that there are different racks. You have now schooled two people.

 

Yes, thank you indeed! The mr2 pump seems like a bit more work than I'm willing to do for power steering. I haven't had a problem turning silverados at work without power steering, my little Hondas are cake. Haha well after everything I've just read I'm grabbing my tools and dropping my steering rack before I send off my Si for scrap metal. Thanks 4drEF! Your help is much appreciated!!!

 

I did like that write up! Something I'll look into doing in the future.

 

More like 3 - Google schooled me!
Knew there was a difference from seeing the Quaife install write-ups.
Knew the PS rack was bigger from personal experience...

Everything else was from some Google searching.

 

No for my last question. Am I going to have to use the crossmember and hardware from the Si? Or will the rack bolt rite up to the sedan crossmember?

 

Now that I believe will bolt right up...

 

Ok. Well I'm dropping the entire subframe anyway. I'll figure it out when I drop the rack from the sedan. What about away bars? Si should be better rite? Stiffer? I need to do a bit of research. I'm just taking the entire suspension up front including knuckles and subframe and rear sway bar just in case. I'm sure I can sell them later if they don't make a difference.