H22 transmission LSD install... M2F4 shims

I had a Mfactory lsd installed a couple years ago, still in process of rebuilding my engine from a improperly installed balance shaft delete kit (won't mention any name's,,,eff'n machine shop!")
so I tore my trans apart cause I knew the diff wasn't shimmed correctly, I only drove a couple hundred km before my engine seized on the dyno.
I measured between the diff shim and housing with feeler a gauge, and theres roughly .762mm of play with a k shim installed( 2.20mm).
I then discovered that item #4 in the parts diagram above is missing from my transmission!
I'm looking for the thickness spec for item #4 41380-PG2-A10 SHIM (75MM) so that I can order a few shims for the other side.
I dont know it off the top of my head but I know that its in the Helms manual. I'm not sure how you even ran it with that shim out of there!
anyone have a whole set of shims from installing a diff left over? pm me
I looked in my chiltons and haynes, waste of time....
I looked in my chiltons and haynes, waste of time....
just ordered all the shims from www.hondapartscheap.com
sucks cause I only need one, but I don't know which one.
I even went through the service manual here http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f146...online-303151/ an couldn't find a thickness for the 75mm shim.
http://prelude.openbarr.com/manuals/5th_gen/ pages 480-485
sucks cause I only need one, but I don't know which one.
I even went through the service manual here http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f146...online-303151/ an couldn't find a thickness for the 75mm shim.
http://prelude.openbarr.com/manuals/5th_gen/ pages 480-485
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nothing is wrong with the lsd, the shop i paid to install it, did not shim it correctly.
i could wiggle it side to side roughly 1mm, there was no preload on the bearings at all.
i could wiggle it side to side roughly 1mm, there was no preload on the bearings at all.
Here is a shot of the oil port that feeds oil pressure to the crank brace thingy.
you can see a 1/8th npt plug deep in the cavity to block oil pressure from bleeding out the balance shaft journal (i tapped and installed with red loctite).
Problem was that the engine shop I paid to sleeve the block and install the delete kit tapped and plugged the whole port with a 1/2"npt plug, effectively blocking oil flow to all bearings in the bottom end. cool eh!
I was still reading oil pressure, and didn't know till it was to late,
was assembled short block.
oh, right, the issue I had with the balance shaft delete was incorrect installation by a engine shop that is supposed to know what they are doing. I learned the hard way, should have just done it myself to begin with. Its so bullshit that I can't trust anyone to do anything right the first time around, anything I've had done to my car by a shop so far I've had to go back and fix or replace.
Here is a shot of the oil port that feeds oil pressure to the crank brace thingy.
you can see a 1/8th npt plug deep in the cavity to block oil pressure from bleeding out the balance shaft journal (i tapped and installed with red loctite).
Problem was that the engine shop I paid to sleeve the block and install the delete kit tapped and plugged the whole port with a 1/2"npt plug, effectively blocking oil flow to all bearings in the bottom end. cool eh!
I was still reading oil pressure, and didn't know till it was to late,
was assembled short block.
Here is a shot of the oil port that feeds oil pressure to the crank brace thingy.
you can see a 1/8th npt plug deep in the cavity to block oil pressure from bleeding out the balance shaft journal (i tapped and installed with red loctite).
Problem was that the engine shop I paid to sleeve the block and install the delete kit tapped and plugged the whole port with a 1/2"npt plug, effectively blocking oil flow to all bearings in the bottom end. cool eh!
I was still reading oil pressure, and didn't know till it was to late,
was assembled short block.
the 75mm shim is a standard shim and all that goes in that spot. #5 is the shim you use to get the preload you want.
the proper way to set this figure is to set the preload without anything in the case other than the diff. the proper procedure is in the service manual. Measuring play play wont get you anywhere. You have to know how much force it takes to move the diff to set that clearance right. this is done with a beam style in lbs torque wrench.
the proper way to set this figure is to set the preload without anything in the case other than the diff. the proper procedure is in the service manual. Measuring play play wont get you anywhere. You have to know how much force it takes to move the diff to set that clearance right. this is done with a beam style in lbs torque wrench.
the 75mm shim is a standard shim and all that goes in that spot. #5 is the shim you use to get the preload you want.
the proper way to set this figure is to set the preload without anything in the case other than the diff. the proper procedure is in the service manual. Measuring play play wont get you anywhere. You have to know how much force it takes to move the diff to set that clearance right. this is done with a beam style in lbs torque wrench.
the proper way to set this figure is to set the preload without anything in the case other than the diff. the proper procedure is in the service manual. Measuring play play wont get you anywhere. You have to know how much force it takes to move the diff to set that clearance right. this is done with a beam style in lbs torque wrench.
ya, the point of this thread, my 75mm shim was missing, cause shops around here suck.
If I knew the thickness of the 75mm shim I probably wouldn't of had to order 20 shims.
41380-PG2-A10 SHIM (75MM) is about 1mm thick
I had the "k" shim installed, checked preload and spun easily with my finger.
so tried "L" skim , torqued down again, still spun fairly easily with my finger.
So next I tried "M" shim and felt slightly more resistance with my finger but still spins fairly easily, assembled transmission with "M" shim. my finger was cheaper then that stupid torque wrench I can't find locally, and didn't feel like waiting 2 weeks for it....
I have a whole set of differential shims left over, only one I used was "M". PM me if you need a diff shim set.
www.hondapartscheap.com is my new favorite oem honda parts source, sure it took a few weeks to get like 19 shims, but I didn't even have to talk to the stupid people behind the parts desk at my local dealer, that only know how to find cabin filters and wipers. Prices better too, was like 5.12 per shim vs 10something locally.
I had the "k" shim installed, checked preload and spun easily with my finger.
so tried "L" skim , torqued down again, still spun fairly easily with my finger.
So next I tried "M" shim and felt slightly more resistance with my finger but still spins fairly easily, assembled transmission with "M" shim. my finger was cheaper then that stupid torque wrench I can't find locally, and didn't feel like waiting 2 weeks for it....
I have a whole set of differential shims left over, only one I used was "M". PM me if you need a diff shim set.
www.hondapartscheap.com is my new favorite oem honda parts source, sure it took a few weeks to get like 19 shims, but I didn't even have to talk to the stupid people behind the parts desk at my local dealer, that only know how to find cabin filters and wipers. Prices better too, was like 5.12 per shim vs 10something locally.
meh.... what the F*** why not.......
altechperformance.com ----doesn't know how to shim a diff
cdpautomachine.com ---- f***ed up balance shaft delete kit install, engine locked up solid on the dyno.
altechperformance.com ----doesn't know how to shim a diff
cdpautomachine.com ---- f***ed up balance shaft delete kit install, engine locked up solid on the dyno.
Anyways I have a nice FD to compliment that LSD!!
Hit me up when youre ready to fly!!
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h22_crx
Honda Prelude
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Apr 26, 2006 12:04 PM








