So recently I have been getting pretty shitty gas milage in my ITR. I only drive about 6 miles a day 3 to work 3 back.

ITs on a very conservative RLZ tune. on 12 pounds. It was around 280- 300 miles per tank and now its at like 140.

I have a new fuel filter to put in. I haven't changed any thing. and I dont keep my foot to the floor. I only drive the car once its warmed up. And if I have to drive it cold I dont go over 4k rpm.

Thanks guys.. Im open to any thing. Was thinking about getting a new tune on a new ecu and see what that does.

Open to all inputs on possible things.

Thanks HT..

 

id check the obvious stuff first, fuel filter, pump, injectors, fpr, ignition parts etc, make sure they are all functioning properly, then i would have it tuned, the shop would be able to connect to your ecu, guessing you have hondata or something and let you know if anything else is wrong, and then tune it of course to get it running perfect

 

Yeah I have replaced:

plugs, plug wires, rotor cap and button. injectors arnt leaking any. I have precision 880s.

They seem fine but who knows whats going on in side, fuel pressure is at 54 psi according to my gauge. Its tuned on chrome, so no usb hook up but i'm sure they can pull my map off the chip.

 

That's really weird that all of a sudden you would just be losing milage like that. What does your air fuels look like while driving? How were the plugs? How old are the injectors? Maybe 1 it taking a crap

 

Don't have a wideband. I really need to get one. The plugs looked fine. Try we're a little dark but nothing out of the ordinary. And the injectors r about 3 years old.

 

Hondata + Good tuner
What set up do you have?? How many psi/hp do you have??
I didnt notice milage change from my turbo R, exept when i get on it.. I thought i was on a conservative tune at 10psi..

 

Its a Inline pro cast mani. sc42, 880, tial ex wg, greddy bov, tredstone front mount. rlz tune on chrome. 12 pounds 340hp. 3 bar map, aeromtive fpr. walbro 255 stock block thick head gasket. built head stock itr cams.

 

open loop or closed loop tune? you need a wideband badly. if you have a closed loop tune and something like the narrowband o2 fails the AF defaults to 10-1 which would be about right for 140-150 miles a tank.

if you have an open loop tune you should have at least 2 chips a winter/summer chip. still, even with AF being off seasonally in open loop it won't drop you that much

call up your tuner and get your car back on the dyno and troubleshoot what's causing the problem

 

You think I could just have a bad 02 sensor. b4 me the car was only driven on weekends. It could have gone bad i suppose.

 

Well I Installed a new 02 sensor this morning. The old one was black as akon. So here's to hoping that was the issue. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

If the o2 sensor swap doesnt fix it id say check or change your igniter.

 

Tire pressure and a fuel injector cleaner

 

retune will only compensate for a problem, get a Wideband, do some logging, and go from there.

 

Allready did all the easy fixes lol.

Yeah, thats what I was thinking too. I replaced the 02 bc lets face it, 60 bucks for a maybe fix is better then spending 200 on a wide band and 400 on a tune lol.

Fingers crossed that the 02 sensor is the fix. So far so good.

 

Since you're open to all input, I threw that out besides I have alot of possibilities, froze/stuck caliper piston and/or caliper slider

 

Just did the breaks recently. I thought of that too.

Im pretty sure that its Engine related. I looked and the old plugs I pulled out a few weeks ago..... yes i keep them for this exact reason lol... and they were blacker then normal. And the 02 sensor being very dark kinda leads me in that direction also.


The exhaust isnt smoking as much, it was very rich and now its back to being invisible. I let it warm up Hit my 2 step and it was alot faster spool and smoother. So fingers crossed I fixed the issue. I just need togo take a few 30 mile trips.. I live right across the street from the base so its kinda hard to get a good long trip in. Plus only driving 2 miles a day takes a while to burn thru a tank of gas when your getting good milage lol.

 

Eh Get the easy things out of the way

properly gapped plugs
ignition timing
clean air filter
test thermostat
properly balanced tires
wheel bearing

 

can't really say this about a wideband. you really should be using one of these. while they won't save you they will alert you when something is a little off. think of **** like a plugged fuel filter etc. you will catch the change on a wideband.

has your oil burning went up since this happened? was just thinking that if you broke a ringland or have heavy deposits on the valves a drop in compression could get the car running rich. engine is less efficient, also would feel down on power.

a compression and vacuum test are free and worth doing. the vacuum test alone would tell you a lot if there's any needle flutter

i think i say do a compression and vacuum test in threads more than anyone else on here, but, i have a very good reason for doing so. if you verify the health of the engine THEN you can troubleshoot. if the problem is with compression nothing you do will solve the problem

 

Yeah did a comp test and it's 175 across the board. I'm using a thick rlz he's gasket. And did a leak down and it came out ok. That's the first thing that crossed my mind. Not burning any oil more fuel.