So I checked for spark and it's there, I unscrewed the bolt on the fuel filter a little an turned key to pos. 2 and fuel sprayed out, so I'm getting fuel, but my car won't stay running when it starts...

Things i've done..

- Grounded spark plug wires, all have white spark
- Checked for fuel pressure @ fuel filter
- Bought new battery
- Bought main relay (working fine out of my cousins car)

And a little history on the car...

So it's an EG with D16Z6, and as of about 8 months ago the car started taking a while to prime upon first turning the key to pos. 2, ex: I turn the key and the CEL stays on, than sometimes 10 seconds, sometimes 10 minutes later it would finally click the main relay turning off the CEL and I hear the fuel pump prime.. Well for about 4-5 months my car started doing this, and than randomly would shut off.. Than it would start right back up, drive for a little and occasionally shut off again.. So I told my buddy who tunes cars around here and he said it may be my ECU so he took a look @ it and said a few of my resistors were not lookin so sharp.. So he did some magic and got the delay down to about 10-20 seconds now before the CEL turns off, relay clicks, and fuel pump primes.. But now it will start, idle like **** for a while, and stall, than hesitate to start back up if it even does start back up because it doesn't always..

Now, I'm not the type to just randomly buy parts and hope one works so I'm asking here first because maybe someone else had this issue before and it ended up being the same thing I have goin on.. I really need to fix this, because I've bought a new car and this one has to go...

My guesses would be ECU, Fuel Pump, or Dizzy, but none of the auto parts stores test dizzy's anymore.. And now I have to search on how to test a fuel pump, but I'd appreciate it if anyone had any input on things to check for this specific situation..

Symptoms

- Rough Idle
- Stalls
- Fuel Pump & Main Relay don't engage upon turning key to ON position
- No CEL's to help me troubleshoot

Thanks in advance.. And any other info that i've forgotten I'll update as this goes along..

 

jump your ignition switch using the guide found on tegger.com
or google honda ignition switch problems
its easy and will give you a step by step guide to diagnosing and replacing your ig switch

you can test the fuel pump simply by removing the back seat, removing the fuel pump cover, and applying 12 volts to the fuel pump side of the harness.

 

When the engine stalls, do the cluster warning lights turn on? When engine won't start, do the cluster warning lights turn on when the key is turned to ON(II)? If the answer is yes to both questions, then the ignition switch is likely fine.

I would start by removing and then cleaning/sanding/wire brushing the G101 ground on the thermostat housing and then tightening it up.

 

Thanks I'll try that out..

Just so we're on the same page Ron, u mean warning lights as in dash lights in general...??

And thanks for such quick response, and the G101 idea..

 

CEL, oil pressure, and charging system warning lights

 

I'll check that out in the morning and post back, thanks again!

 

Ok so it just stalled and only the battery and oil light stayed on, no CEL...

 

This^ rules out an ignition switch problem.

Did you clean the G101 ground until it was nice and shiny?

Have you checked whether fuse 31 or 24 is loose or partially damaged?

 

sweet..!

i just used a shop towel and wiped it off, i'm gonna take some sand paper to it and see if that works better.. I don't have my dremel or other tools here so I'm kinda strapped on equipment but i'll just take a trip to Napa..[/QUOTE]

Hmm haven't read up on that yet, let me give it a check..

 

G101 - Use steel wool or a wire brush. A shop towel won't do much. Give the metal contacts a shiny metallic sheen.

 

I file tooled and wire brushed it, also hit up the VC ground as well, car still stalls..

I'm wondering if the delayed CEL upon first start has something to do with the random stalling issue..?? I have a feeling its my ECU for some reason, maybe from reading a lot of other threads where others have replaced multiple items and problem still persisted and than they changed the ECU and it was fine.. However, I had a very reputible tuner in the area check mine out and he said it had a few blown cap's but he replaced them and he retuned my chipped p28 with a stock basemap for a Z6 I/H/E... He said he couldn't find anymore blown cap's but that I would still have the delay but from 4-5 minutes to 50-60 seconds which is true except on hot days it will take longer to clear CEL and prime fuel pump so the car can be started..

 

If you checked the two fuses and they're fine, try swapping in a known good ECU.

 

Ok i'll try that asap.. Also, does this sound like it could be a timing issue..?? This all started a few months ago after I replaced my headgasket and noticed I was a few teeth off TDC on the cam gear... I corrected it but the problem still was there, and I've also done a compression test since than and it was 155 on all 4 cylinders... So I thought I could rule timing out but better ask than to just assume..

Or perhaps fuel pump..?